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L series race tuning pro needed


73G-nose

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I'm looking for some referrals to tuning shops or individuals with extensive L-series race tuning and cylinder head experience.

 

I'm in need of, and am willing to pay for some professional service in dealing with some recurring valve train issues on my race car (hopefully pictured below) in addition to perhaps some engine dyno time.

 

I'm of course aware of Rebello and Sunbelt, and have heard good things about Paul at Rusch Motorsports, but have been warned that he's typically extremely busy.

 

Can anyone refer some other shops or tuners that they've had good luck with? I'm located in the Minneapolis metro, and am willing to ship components if necessary.

 

–Thanks

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I'm of course aware of Rebello and Sunbelt, and have heard good things about Paul at Rusch Motorsports, but have been warned that he's typically extremely busy.

 

 

Paul makes excellent heads and is very knowledgeable, Im lucky enough to be able to learn some porting/head work from him.

Hit him up with a PM or give him a call and see what's on the table atm.

 

what are your valve train issues?

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Well, I recently completed a down to the bare tub rebuild of this car, (I've had it for several years and raced it previously in a much milder configuration). I did some pre-season testing and initially dealt with some clutch, brake and jetting issues. Since then, those have been resolved, but I have not been able to overcome an ongoing episode of losing valve springs, andor rocker arms.

 

I am not a hardcore engine guy, my comfort zone ends at jet changes, valve lash and ignition timing. Also, I don't hold anyone, or their components at fault for what's happened, I just want to correct what's wrong and move forward.

 

The head is an N42, race ported and assembled initially by Rebello. Cam is a Schneider 300F. Pistons are domed Venolia, 12:1 CR. Once I resolved my jetting issues (weber 45's) the engine began to RPM nicely (I held it under 7K). Finally 3 races into the season it seemed everything was coming together, but the day ended in disaster as I lost the exhaust valve springs on holes 4 and 5. End result, bent valves, destroyed cam and the pistons were nicked but survived.

 

The damaged head was repaired by a machinist within reasonable driving distance who came highly recommended (but had no previous L28 experience). Head was re-assembled with another Schneider 300F, spring pressures set per the cam card, etc. I realize it perhaps should have gone back to Rebello, but there just wasn't time.

 

Since then it's been pretty much the same story, although the problem is now mainly intake valve on hole 2. This past weekend the rocker wear pad and lash pad came off during qualifying. A quick field repair was made (new retainer was needed) and I just made the race, and short-shifted in survival mode to make it live until the finish. One other thing, the cam lobe was getting extremely hot, all others looked happy. I'm not running a spray bar, but I don't think it's a oiling issue...but like I said, I'm no expert.

 

There have been too many well-intentioned but unqualified hands on this thing all season long, and it's time to re-group and get it looked at by a true expert. At the very least the head needs to be redone, but I'm not ruling out shipping the entire package off for some diagnosis and dyno time.

 

–Thanks again

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Thank you guys for the kind remarks,

 

 

Mark,

Got your PM. LOVE your car! :2thumbs:

 

Just curious;

 

1) Do you recall which brand and part number or specs for the valve springs you were running when the first pair of springs broke?

 

2) Do you know approx. hours of run time or race miles on those springs?

 

3) The shop that did the repair and valve train setup, did they replace all the springs as a set or just the broken springs? Do you know what springs they used for replacement?

 

As for next season, I think I can help. :wink: I’ll send you a PM with details.

Edited by BRAAP
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Yeah, my question would be when you say 'lost' valve springs, did they break?

 

That may be simple metallurgy, and if they only replaced the broken parts, then the rest are ssupect and likely on the way to the same fate.

 

Springs are cheap, they go as a set.

 

After several sets, using a spring scale and keeping track of 'hours' may allow you to assemble a full set of 'emergency trackside spares' for future short-term use of already broken in and shimmed correctly springs for quick replacement should something bad happen.

 

Arms being chucked usually comes from a pivot that works loose and lets em fly! This your case as well?

 

Good Luck, stuff like this can suck when you're trying to nail it down.

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