jacob80 Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 Hey guys, Ok so i've had a base setup on my L28ET but I just corrected all my timing and am starting all over. It runs with the approximate tune on it but obviously thats not going to cut it. Last night, I attempted to tune the idle with no luck. I tried scaling my cranking pulse widths at the different temperatures like the tuning manual inside the megamanual told me, and I also attempted to tune my warm up, after start, and idle but got no where. If someone could help me on my feet it would be greatly, greatly appreciated. Here is my setup: 1973 240z running surge tank setup L28ET Pallnet fuel rail Bosch 42lb 440cc injectors (low impedence) Stock intake manifold Stock turbo/boost (7psi) Front mount intercooler Rebuilt long block Fidanza flywheel Performance products pulley 280zx alternator Greddy Type RS blow off valve MSD Blaster 2 coil Magnacore wires Megasquirt 1 V3 board running MSnS-E Stock 83 distributor Kameari high pressure oil pump Iridium plugs I think that about completes our setup. I've set all my basic parameters yada yada yada and my Req_Fuel is 7. So if any of you guys could give me a hand to get me on the road I will praise you. Its starting to get cold and I would like to get these floors welded in before winter. Thanks a lot guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 Hey guys, Ok so i've had a base setup on my L28ET but I just corrected all my timing and am starting all over. It runs with the approximate tune on it but obviously thats not going to cut it. Last night, I attempted to tune the idle with no luck. I tried scaling my cranking pulse widths at the different temperatures like the tuning manual inside the megamanual told me, and I also attempted to tune my warm up, after start, and idle but got no where. If someone could help me on my feet it would be greatly, greatly appreciated. Here is my setup: I think that about completes our setup. I've set all my basic parameters yada yada yada and my Req_Fuel is 7. So if any of you guys could give me a hand to get me on the road I will praise you. Its starting to get cold and I would like to get these floors welded in before winter. Thanks a lot guys. Have you played with your VE Table at all? I'd start with that before messing with pulse widths and such. Chris said his car like to idle around 13:1 AFR, I think mine likes around 13:5. Do you have a wideband? And why are you running Iridium plugs? Most people go with NGKs I think... I'm using BPR7ES in mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 Iridium is just a type it can be made by NGK or DENSO or anyother company If there NGk there more likey good enough just make sure they got R in the part number. So is the car not idling ? try increasing the idle screw a little more I found a little fresh air helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted October 8, 2009 Author Share Posted October 8, 2009 No it will idle I just need to smooth it out and lean it out cause its at like 10:1-9:1 :S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 No it will idle I just need to smooth it out and lean it out cause its at like 10:1-9:1 :S You can ruin your motor running it that rich for a long time. Get the car warmed up and off of accel enrichment, warmup enrichment, air temp correction, etc. Now tune your base fuel map. This has to be done before most of the rest of it can be. Search my name in this sub-forum. I posted in more detail previously to help you get going on an order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted October 14, 2009 Author Share Posted October 14, 2009 Ok here is some progress, got the car to idle decently but it is soooo untuned right now, at the end of the video I said something about the coolant which may be but what I mean is that I think the coolant correction or some variable is changing and it just dies as you see. http://s617.photobucket.com/albums/tt260/jacob80a/?action=view¤t=102_7842.flv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 Before you worry about cold start tuning, you need to have a decent tune for normal driving. Otherwise you'll be compensating for the incorrect warmed-up tune. Start by turning off all those fun bells and whistles such as MAT Correction Table, Over Run Fuel Cut, etc and just get the basic VE table (along with the Ign Advance and AFR Targets tables) reasonably close for street driving. I would even suggest turning off Accel Enrichment in the beginning. Only once you have the basics well sorted should you begin to add those other features. BTW, it only takes an hour or two using MLV to get reasonably close enough. Also, play around with the VE Delay in the MLV VE Analyzer tool. I've found that a setting of 8 for rpms below 3k and 3 for 3k and up works best, but it's entirely a function of your car. And yes, you will notice that there is no "8" setting - you have to edit the config file to get to that. If you don't want to mess with it, just set it at 4 and leave it. From there you can begin to focus on After Start Enrichment and Warmup Enrichment. In general, it's best to get a good baseline when warm, and then gradually work on one or two (at most) other features at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted October 15, 2009 Author Share Posted October 15, 2009 Ok so to disable all the features....how do I do that? Also, how am I going to start the car if the enrichments aren't enabled, do I just keep my foot on the gas until its warm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 Unless you have some really strange settings, After Start Enrichment and Warm Up Enrichment only operate below normal operating temps (180F) so there's no need to turn them off. I was just saying not to bother with fine tuning them until you have the base tune pretty close. I WAS suggesting you turn off the other features such as Over Run Fuel Cut, Accel Enrichment etc during tuning. To do that, you need to go to each feature and either turn it off, or put in an activation setting that will never be met (say MAP>100 for a NA engine). The key is to get a base tune at normal operating temps done first, and only then worry about tuning everything else. All those other features exist to compensate for special conditions where the base tune can't handle it. If you tune for the special conditions first, you'll never get the base tune right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 Ok so to disable all the features....how do I do that? Also, how am I going to start the car if the enrichments aren't enabled, do I just keep my foot on the gas until its warm? Just open up the throttle stop screw for now. It'll make you idle high after the car warms up, but you won't have the trouble of it trying to die on you in the mornings. I have mine set a bit too far open right now, it idles at about 800 cold and 1100 warm. Too much! I'm thinking about putting an IAC in, operated by a switch in the cabin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 Just open up the throttle stop screw for now. It'll make you idle high after the car warms up, but you won't have the trouble of it trying to die on you in the mornings. I have mine set a bit too far open right now, it idles at about 800 cold and 1100 warm. Too much! I'm thinking about putting an IAC in, operated by a switch in the cabin. This is kinda how I start with a fresh tune, I tune GM ECMs, not MS, but the principal would be the same. I start with commanding the idle to be high, on hard to idle/one off combinations. By "commanding" I mean using the IAC that is installed in GM applications to allow more air in, opening the TB is a similar principle, and have had to do that too sometimes. I usually start about 1200 RPM, tune those cells, command idle a little lower, usually about 100 to 200 RPM decreses, until I get down to 600 to 800 idle (depending on the engine). I do this with the engine at operating temp. I will as it's warming up monitor AFRs to make sure it's not too rich to wash down the cylinders, but once the operating temp tune is close, the cold start and warm up tuning can be tweaked much easier. FWIW, my L28 with a large turbo installed, 32 lbs/hr injectors, 3" exhaust, and 2.5" intake piping likes to idle stable in the high 14:1 to mid 13:1 AFRs, and around 18* of advance. leaner or more timing and I seem to get surge. I'm also finding that my engine doesn't seem to like any more timing cold than warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 Just open up the throttle stop screw for now. It'll make you idle high after the car warms up, but you won't have the trouble of it trying to die on you in the mornings. I have mine set a bit too far open right now, it idles at about 800 cold and 1100 warm. Too much! I'm thinking about putting an IAC in, operated by a switch in the cabin. Drop the stop back down and simply stay in the cockpit for the first 30 seconds and you'll be fine. That's what I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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