Zmanco Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 The only difference is, my leak is coming from the rear and dripping off the gear box on the passenger side (could it be the rear seal???). It might be the seals on each side of the rear main bearing cap. Not sure if you could replace those with the engine in the car ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted October 23, 2009 Author Share Posted October 23, 2009 Please don't say that! That would be devastating! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 I've had good luck with Permatex Hylomar. It's stupid expensive but it works well. I used to be cheaper before they started calling it "racing formula":icon45: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kash Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 It might be the seals on each side of the rear main bearing cap. Not sure if you could replace those with the engine in the car ... Man don't say soooo....but you may be right because I had a tough time getting those seals in and was afraid that I may have damaged one of them after pounding it in...son of a %!^@#, that's got be it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kash Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Here are a few pic's I took during the install: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 Ok so where do I jack up my engine when I want to change my oil pan gasket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatMan Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 I would say at the pick-points at the top of the motor. Use a cherry picker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 RTV on my pan. engine isn't leaking a drop! And the VG engines have the crank oil seal retainers/pump protruding from the deck, so it's harder to get it to seal right. I use Permatex "Right Stuff" which is what Nissan used (equivalent) on their pan seals for the last 4 Nissan motors I disassembled. Comes in Grey or Black. I used Grey. As Tony D said, don't overtorque. I torqued just a slight hair over what the manual called for, and I used split lock and brass washers. You're going to have fun trying to apply that stuff now from underneath the car. Might as well make a list of things you didn't change when you rebuilt it, and see if you have the money to make those changes since your only option may be to remove the motor and put it on a stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darom Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 I took my oil pan 4 times before I finally found the right combination (280z 76): 1. FelPro gasket, Permatex (Aviation) on both sides, pan and engine - sealed great until I decided to do the timing chain. 2. MSA competition gasket - dry, only grey Permatex in the corners (engine side) - leaked after the engine got hot and shut down. 3. MSA gasket - oil pan side Aviation Permatex, engine side - dry, corners (grey) - leaked. At this point I gave up on the MSA gasket. 4. FelPro, grey Permatex thin layer on both sides - no leaks. After each attempt, I straightened the oil pan. MSA gasket is back in its box. Like previous posters mentioned, I do clean surfaces with rubbing alcohol. Adhesion of the oil pan to the engine block with grey RTV is excellent. I think grey Permatex without gasket would have worked by itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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