thehelix112 Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 Great advice guys. Thanks. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 Finished up the tie-rod ends themselves today. Ordered a 5/8" bridge reamer the other day so just waiting for that to arrive. Also picked up some 5/8" grade 8 bolts to put it all together. Main concern now is whether the rod end will clear the 14" wheels. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Main concern now is whether the rod end will clear the 14" wheels. If you're using bump steer spacers I don't think you'll have much room at all. If you get rid of the spacers, then you'll have a little room, but not much. My experience says you only need about 1/2" of LCA movement to fix the problem, so you'd probably need the same on the tie rod side if your LCA pivot hole is stock. My guess is you could squeeze that in, but it will probably be tight. That is just a guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglist Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 They look good, post some pictures on the car and let us know if they are long enough or if you have any clearance problems with your wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 Will do. Hope to get them on this Saturday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 Helix, did you measure your bumpsteer before beginning this? It would be interesting to know how much you're able to reduce it, hopefully close to zero. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share Posted November 5, 2009 (edited) jt, No I didn't sorry. The H-bracket technique I read about on here for measuring it is beyond me at this point. I want to drive the car again, don't have a welder to make such a bracket, and cbf pulling the suspension out again to remove the spring. Jon I think is on the money with it requiring about the same as if the inner control arm pivot point was moved upwards. So about 1/2" Don't think I'll be able to get there due to the small wheels, but we'll see I guess. Dave Edited November 5, 2009 by thehelix112 Typo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rejracer Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 Dave, The walls look very thin. If they are as thin as they appear in the pics, it's an accident waiting to happen. How much side wall is at the thinnest point? If your looking for stock, have you tried these guys? http://www.midwestcontrol.com/rigid-linkages.php -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 With the grease the drill just cut right through in about 2 minutes. Plus it smells good too! I use Oatey Dark cutting oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share Posted November 5, 2009 rejracer, That is where I got the linkage from: PN HBT8-8.00. As I said, the wall thickness is my main concern, I need to measure properly but by eye, somewhere between 1.5mm and 2mm. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 Got them installed today. The min wall thickness is 2mm on the hole thats drilled to 5/8ths. So thats 93thou. Sound reasonably safe? With the rod end spaced downwards from the steering arm 1/2" (think this more or less replicates the stock tierod end pivot location) there is around 4mm clearance to the wheel balancing weight. This is on 14" wheels. What do you guys think are the chances of the 5/8" grade 8 bolts bending 4mm? Hopefully slim, the tyres I think would let go before it generated that much lateral acceleration (195 crap street tyres). With the rod ends wound all the way in, I am getting just a tad of toe-in, this is with lower control arms that have been lengthened 30mm or so. So fits fine for me, but on a different install might need to trim them down a bit. Pics (trimmed down the 5/8" bolt and added a spring washer since pics): Look ok? Thanks, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglist Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Looks great, pretty close to the wheel. If you are worried about the wheel weight you could get your wheels rebalanced dynamically and have the shop use the adhesive stick on weights rather than the clip-on lead weights. If you get worried about the stick on weights flying off, I've seen racers use the aluminum tape over top the weights you see on duct work...not actual duct tape. Where did you source your high-misalignment rod ends and how much were they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 That's looking like a tight fit. Some fixes: wheel spacers, different offset wheels, 15" or 16" wheels, slot crossmember and adjust the bumpsteer with a combination of the two adjustments. I went for all of the above... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted November 10, 2009 Author Share Posted November 10, 2009 I think I'll just leave it as is, will fine a safe place to do some spirited driving (not a lot) and see if the weight gets scratch marks on it. If so, will start on the mods. Plan is for 15" wheels, which hopefully will help. Good idea on the stick-on weights. Thanks for the comments Jon. I'm afraid I didn't source the rod-ends. They came with the zforce rear control arms, but I felt they were not appropriate, so I just reused them and sourced more normal replacements. But I think they are either PCM or PCM-T QA1 rod ends. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 sorry to bring up a long dead thread, but these finally popped up on ZCC again and thought it might be useful for those that dont want to cut or drill into anything http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt43033/pd1827536/IMSA__ROD_END_TIE_RODS_ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 The pictures that are broken in this thread can be found here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/gallery/album/1220/703-280z-bump-steer-tie-rod-ends/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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