Jesse OBrien Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I've spent about 4 hours in the past couple days trying to get my drums off. One is seized, and the other spins freely (ebrake and lines are disconnected on both) but the cover simply won't come off. I feel like I'm missing something, so before I cut them both in half, I want to see if anybody has more sensible solutions. I've already cut enough pieces off this car, I'd like to keep these. Keeping them sure beats the alternatives. Just so we don't re-cover any ground, and because I know half of you won't read that first part, I have already: Disconnected hydraulic lines Removed bleeder bolts Disconnected e-brake cables (and broke the stupid little cotter pins) Yelled at it Smacked it with a hammer, a 2x4, and my foot (bad idea, don't try that one) Spun the brake that's not locked up, hoping something would ... move? Removed the two anchor bolts on the top, on the inside of the drum (toward the diff) Beat the hell out of the circular opening next to the bolts, and moved the 'anchor' Swore up and down at Haynes for giving me such a crappy description of what to do ('Remove the front cover... if it's stuck tap it lightly with a hammer, using a 2x4 as a cushion'... Jesus Christ, I've been rougher with windows than these guys are with brakes) Broke my hammer smacking the drums. Yes, that's right. My hammer is broken now. It's in many pieces on my garage floor. Moved the mysterious adjuster fin-gear-thingie that's inside the drum down. I may have broken it off at some point, as well. I guess it's supposed to relieve the tension on the brake shoes. The drum still won't come off. Heat. Lots of heat. I'm out of propane for my torch now. I don't really want to replace the drums with disks, because that means brackets, a proportioning valve, waiting for parts to come in, finding out that I don't have all the parts, waiting for more parts to come in, finding out some of the parts are the wrong parts, and dreaming of someday getting to drive my car. I'd much rather rebuild these drums and toss 'em back on and call it done. At this point, I'm pretty pissed off at the whole situation, especially since this is something that should be regular maintenance. I've looked around and heard similar complaints, suggestions to heat them or hammer them, etc. The common complaint appears to be that the center of the drum is a part of the wheel hub (or something along those lines) and seems to have been hammered into place, so it doesn't slide off nicely. So, suggestions? Please? If nobody has any good suggestions, does anyone have some old drums you're willing to give up or sell? I've got a pile of cutting wheels for the die grinder, and I do have a great time playing with it, so I'm not too opposed to forcibly removing components if I have a replacement. It seems like a lot of people move up to discs, so there must be some old drums sitting around in a bin in someone's garage. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi303 Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Hmm... internet rumour says spraying hydrocarbon propellant aerosol (deoderant, flyspray, any good potato gun stuff) into the drum body via the hole to adjust the star wheel, then stuffing a match in there, will remove the drums at greater or lesser velocity dependant on volume of vapourous hydrocarbon. Never done it myself, but if you do it, have someone film it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 ^ Whoa, that would be interesting. Have you tried soaking the center in something really great like Kroil? Its rusted on. Heat the drum area and beat the hub area with a hammer in an attempt to get it loose. I had to ruin one drum to remove it years back. Buy a bigger hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Get out the BFH! Also an air chisel with a soft tip out to shake it loose. Tough if they are rusted that bad i doubt the drum is worth saving anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeBZ Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Try rotating the adjusters in both directions. Use a flashlight and make sure you're going the right way. Also chisel the center of the drum near the stub axle. Sometimes rust gets in that crack and the drum wont budge. Good luck, I layed on the ground with a flashlight and a small flat head screwdriver and turned the adjusters, then used a BFH and tapped all around the perimeter of the drum. I heard the brake shoe clunk on the inside, it had seized to the drum.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifersam Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 we tapped the lugs in, then hit it with a BIG hammer, and after that the drums practically fell off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyZ Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I took mine off with a drill. They can never be used again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share Posted November 5, 2009 Hmm... internet rumour says spraying hydrocarbon propellant aerosol (deoderant, flyspray, any good potato gun stuff) into the drum body via the hole to adjust the star wheel, then stuffing a match in there, will remove the drums at greater or lesser velocity dependant on volume of vapourous hydrocarbon. Never done it myself, but if you do it, have someone film it I took mine off with a drill. They can never be used again. You guys have the best suggestions for fun ways to make them non-reuseable. Have you tried soaking the center in something really great like Kroil? Its rusted on. Heat the drum area and beat the hub area with a hammer in an attempt to get it loose. I had to ruin one drum to remove it years back. Buy a bigger hammer I tried PB Blaster, didn't do much good. I can't even tell where the seam is supposed to be around the hub, it's all just a solid piece. Get out the BFH! Also an air chisel with a soft tip out to shake it loose. Tough if they are rusted that bad i doubt the drum is worth saving anyway. I don't have an air chisel, but a bigger hammer may just do the trick. I want to believe the drum is worth saving, it even has all its fins! Try rotating the adjusters in both directions. Use a flashlight and make sure you're going the right way. Also chisel the center of the drum near the stub axle. Sometimes rust gets in that crack and the drum wont budge. Good luck, I layed on the ground with a flashlight and a small flat head screwdriver and turned the adjusters, then used a BFH and tapped all around the perimeter of the drum. I heard the brake shoe clunk on the inside, it had seized to the drum.... I didn't try going in both directions with the adjusters, I just went down. Only one of the drums is actually seized though, the other still spins freely. we tapped the lugs in, then hit it with a BIG hammer, and after that the drums practically fell off. I like that idea, that makes a lot of sense. Can you tap the lugs all the way in though? Don't they hit the back plate of the drum before they sink completely into the drum housing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyZ Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 Seriously, if you give up on saving them, consider the drill method. I tried cutting with a Dremel at first but it was way harder, took longer, and was less safe. I only had to drill about 8 holes with a large drill bit on each drum and pried them apart with a BFS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifersam Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 I like that idea, that makes a lot of sense. Can you tap the lugs all the way in though? Don't they hit the back plate of the drum before they sink completely into the drum housing? You really do not have to tap them all the way out, they just have to break free of the drum, its worth a try though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stravi757 Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 I just did a rear disk conversion so I have all my left over brake hardware now, you can go ahead and take the drum off by any method possible then give it a beating if you want. Im not looking to make anything off of them so just let me know if you need any parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboboost Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 This is what I had to do on my truck, not sure if this is safe or not, buy they were rusted on good. I jacked up the rear, took the wheels off, then put the lugnuts back on. I then ran the truck through first and second gear, then tapped the brakes a few times, then repeated. It finally came loose after the fifth time, and practically fell off. EDIT: Just read now that you have all the hydraulic stuff off, I guess my suggestion won't be of much help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avernier Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 I too have my old drums, although my BFH removed a couple fins on them. They are yours if you want, just give me shipping. And honestly since I did the disc conversion like last week, I feel pretty confident in giving you exact part numbers for what you need, and I know for a fact that at advance auto, nothing should take more than 1-2 days to come in. I can also say that a proportioning valve is not needed with my particular setup, as it has nearly the same brake bias as stock. you will have to get two parts per side from your local jy, and pay the machine shop a visit though. the parts are super common though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest uhtrewup Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 bookmarked and b back l8er, bro, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 I got the biggest one of these at Northern Tool. It was about $16. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philly_G35 Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 I was able to get mine off using a puller as well. I tried soaking them in Kroil and using a hammer and they wouldn't budge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted November 6, 2009 Author Share Posted November 6, 2009 Seriously, if you give up on saving them, consider the drill method. I tried cutting with a Dremel at first but it was way harder, took longer, and was less safe. I only had to drill about 8 holes with a large drill bit on each drum and pried them apart with a BFS. I have a big die grinder and a 60gal compressor. If I end up forcing them off, I promise it'll get the job done. If not, the 6" angle grinder will make short work of 'em. It won't take much time, and I'm not too concerned about safety (I'm still seriously considering spraying a bunch of starter fluid in them and lighting a short fuse while I run like hell). You really do not have to tap them all the way out, they just have to break free of the drum, its worth a try though. It is worth a try. I get off work in an hour, I'll try it then and report back. I just did a rear disk conversion so I have all my left over brake hardware now, you can go ahead and take the drum off by any method possible then give it a beating if you want. Im not looking to make anything off of them so just let me know if you need any parts. I'm in 94607, can you let me know what shipping would be? This is what I had to do on my truck, not sure if this is safe or not, buy they were rusted on good. I jacked up the rear, took the wheels off, then put the lugnuts back on. I then ran the truck through first and second gear, then tapped the brakes a few times, then repeated. It finally came loose after the fifth time, and practically fell off. EDIT: Just read now that you have all the hydraulic stuff off, I guess my suggestion won't be of much help. Also, the engine isn't hooked up to the transmission, the fuel system isn't installed, and there's no driveshaft. ... sooo, that's a whole world of no. But thanks for trying! I too have my old drums, although my BFH removed a couple fins on them. They are yours if you want, just give me shipping. And honestly since I did the disc conversion like last week, I feel pretty confident in giving you exact part numbers for what you need, and I know for a fact that at advance auto, nothing should take more than 1-2 days to come in. I can also say that a proportioning valve is not needed with my particular setup, as it has nearly the same brake bias as stock. you will have to get two parts per side from your local jy, and pay the machine shop a visit though. the parts are super common though. Between the two sets of old drums, I think I could make a working pair (new shoes and springs, of course). If I don't have them off tonight, they're getting cut in half. Our junkyards suck pretty badly out here, there's pretty much just Pick 'n Pull, and I absolutely hands-down refuse to go there after my last 3 visits. I am interested in what you did though, what did everything come off of? Is it a 240sx setup? bookmarked and b back l8er, bro, I'm not going anywhere. I got the biggest one of these at Northern Tool. It was about $16. What the hell are you thinking, using the right tool for the job? Pffft, go back to wherever you came from with your making-sense-logic-talk! I don't know if I'm willing to wait for a new tool to come in, and there isn't a single decent store near me (I already checked OSH which is a ways north of me, and that's the best in the area). I was able to get mine off using a puller as well. I tried soaking them in Kroil and using a hammer and they wouldn't budge. Well, I should get a puller eventually. You can put good money down that I'll have one for my next brake servicing, but it's not happening for this week's project. --- I just realized that I have pictures of 3 cars that I no longer own in my sig, and no pictures of my current Z. Maybe I should rectify that situation... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
az240z Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 what a saga! can't wait for the result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avernier Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 It's not the 240sx setup, its a hybrid FWD Maxima/280zx/300zx setup in the back, and i am using the Vented Toyota/300zx setup in the front, and a 15/16 Master Cylinder. really, the back brakes aren't quite balanced with my setup as they aren't grippy enough in comparison to the Toyota stuff up front, but I'm compensating with better pads out back. if you plan to keep the front brakes stock, you wont need a new master or really good pads like i do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted November 6, 2009 Author Share Posted November 6, 2009 It's not the 240sx setup, its a hybrid FWD Maxima/280zx/300zx setup in the back, and i am using the Vented Toyota/300zx setup in the front, and a 15/16 Master Cylinder. really, the back brakes aren't quite balanced with my setup as they aren't grippy enough in comparison to the Toyota stuff up front, but I'm compensating with better pads out back. if you plan to keep the front brakes stock, you wont need a new master or really good pads like i do. I'm running the non-vented Toyota caliper/rotor setup in the front. One of the stock calipers was seized so I went ahead and just replaced 'em both. I figure it can't be any worse than before. My power in my house went down last night so I couldn't fire up the compressor, and essentially got nothing done on the car. I'll spend some quality time with it this weekend, if anyone's in the Bay Area and wants to come along, I'm in Oakland. Just shoot me a PM and we'll make some plans to meet up, I could definitely use a hand! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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