Evan Purple240zt Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 RB's (at least in S-chassis swaps) are very difficult to burp sometimes due to the pocket of air that gets hung up by the thermostat. I was doing some reading, and looking at the thermostat that fits my WRX and realized that they all include a tickler deal of sorts to ease air bleeding. Why don't the RB thermostats have this? Next time I do a thermostat installation, I am going to drill a small hole 1/8 or less to help get the air out of the system. Ill bet that helps quite a bit. I have read about folks doing this on the ford forums when I searched, but anyone tried it on an RB? Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrflip69 Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Replaced the t-stat in my RB25 with a NISMO unit and both the old (probably OEM) and NISMO unit had a burp valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted December 15, 2009 Author Share Posted December 15, 2009 Interesting, my thermostat didn't. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Speed Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 It's funny the other day I was thinking how easy these motor bleed when installed in a Z. the radiator is so much higher than the motor, practically bleeds with the motor off lol. On a side note I recall my replacement t-stat for the RB did have that little brass valve and so did my 22re t-stat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 A small hole can be drilled and NPT tapped (or an existing hole used) in the thermostat housing. A small brass hose fitting can be added and that line run over to the high side of radiator on the PS. Here you have a small hose nipple brazed or soldered into the tank. The engine will self bleed with ease doing this. This is common on many FI engines to promote heating the intake or MAF. LS1 have this setup which also prevents air pockets in the cylinder heads (for which they are notorious) as well as heating the MAF. I do it with any Land Rover V8's running Edelbrock intakes and 4bbls although the nipple already exist on the LR radiator. Anything from 1/8" to 3/8" will work. No, it won't have a detrimental affect on cooling the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted December 16, 2009 Author Share Posted December 16, 2009 Great tip Mark. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 There is also a tool that you can buy from Matco that draws a vaccum on the engine. You can check for leaks and then suck coolant into the engine, completely fills the engine on the first try with no air pockets. They are a little pricey at around 300 bucks but they work awesome. I had to use one with my VQ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wigenOut-S30 Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 since I put my Aluminum rad in my Z, my t-stat was higher then the Rad opening. I took a funnel and plug, I drilled a hole in the rubber plug and epoxy the Funnel in it. I stuck the funnel in the Rad opening and just made sure the water level in the funnel was higher then the T-stat. Worked like a charm bleeding the system of all air. Make sure you turn your heater on so you fill your heater core. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sickboy Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 since I put my Aluminum rad in my Z, my t-stat was higher then the Rad opening. I took a funnel and plug, I drilled a hole in the rubber plug and epoxy the Funnel in it. I stuck the funnel in the Rad opening and just made sure the water level in the funnel was higher then the T-stat. Worked like a charm bleeding the system of all air. Make sure you turn your heater on so you fill your heater core. I use a spill free funnel: Same idea, easy to use, works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Speed Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 ^^^ Got one of those funnels too, they do a great job of bleeding systems and they are cheap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted December 17, 2009 Author Share Posted December 17, 2009 That funnel thing looks great! I like the plug. I have a funnel that fits the radiator opening very well.. but leaks EVERYWHERE when I remove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbie2883 Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 wouldn't a swirl pot added to the system work as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted December 18, 2009 Author Share Posted December 18, 2009 Yeah, that would work if you have space for one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wigenOut-S30 Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 I use a spill free funnel: Same idea, easy to use, works great. Thats awesome! where would one get such a funnel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted December 18, 2009 Author Share Posted December 18, 2009 ^ beer bong depot Ill bet! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 there is a small 10mm bolt on teh balance tube you can use to do this. it should have a little sticker next to it. its a couple inches behind the thermostate onteh top of teh motor right next to the valve cover. it is where most people tap into for a one of those over flow cans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 in this pic it is just forward of the front fuel rail mount directly below the watermark S in secret. just jack that side of the car up a bit, remove the bolt and fill with the car running till it starts spitting water. you will have to do several times till you get a steady flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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