EDIS experts! Engine popping out carbs

[Xnke]

Just got my new engine back in the car and wired up; cranks over fine, valve timing checks out good; SU carbs are rebuilt and work correctly. Float bowls are set correctly.

 

mechanical fuel pump works properly; fuel pressure is 3.5psi.

 

Megajoltlightjr controlling a EDIS-6 setup, controller, EDIS-6 and coilpack test fine; I have the burn mark on my hand to prove it. (knocked the ♥♥♥♥ out of me already)

 

Symptoms:

 

WILL NOT start. Pops out the tailpipe rarely; sneezes through the carbs mostly. Reversion ranges from a cough to a plume of fuel being blown out the carb throats.

 

It seems that my ignition timing is too far advanced; but I'm running EDIS and have checked my trigger wheel a hundred times. At #1 TDC, the VR sensor is looking directly at the sixth tooth past the missing tooth.

 

MAP is 100kpa-96kpa during cranking, but megajolt is showing zero RPM. EDIS should still provide 10dbtdc timing, regardless. That should be enough to get the engine going, provided that it's going to.

 

Anyone got any kind of pointers here? ANYTHING?

[hoov100]

Is the firing order correct? do you have the plugs on the correct coil/spark plug?

[at-jefft]

Ya, When the ignition or timing is off my carbs sneeze at me.

 

Have you checked your timing? (with a timing light)

[Xnke]

On a hunch, I bumped the ignition timing from 12* to 22*, simulating if my timing was retarded by 10*.

 

MUCH MUCH better; a bit much, but it actually cranks and wants to run at this level of timing. No more backfiring, I'll probably back it down to 18* or so, and see if it still wants to run, then fix my trigger wheel so my timing readouts are accurate.

 

Now, how the hell could this happen? I double and triple checked that my VR sensor is looking directly at the 6th tooth past the gap when #1 is at top dead center. Does my engine really need that much timing to crank and run???

 

Haven't checked it with the light yet; my timing light is being a pain and won't trigger right. And on top of it all; I can't see the timing marks, since I have an L24 damper and an L28 timing cover. timing marks are on opposite sides of the engine, so i'll have to set #1 at TDC and mark the damper to match the L28 timing cover.

[softopz]

 

Haven't checked it with the light yet; my timing light is being a pain and won't trigger right. And on top of it all; I can't see the timing marks, since I have an L24 damper and an L28 timing cover. timing marks are on opposite sides of the engine, so i'll have to set #1 at TDC and mark the damper to match the L28 timing cover.

 

Pull out the sparkplugs out of head so it will crank faster and lay the plugs with wires on engine metal. Timing lights usually pick up a faster stronger signal when engine running and that you have edis its harder to pick up too.

Second thing ( actually do this first )yes set TDC and mark the pulley.

 

dont forget to cut off fuel so it wont spray in cylinders and gush out = no good.

[Xnke]

Ok, got the car running, broke in the cam at 2000RPM for 20min, brought the engine up to temperature.

 

Gonna have to get the advance worked out; the car won't even start with any less than 22* in the spark tables on the Megajolt. Runs pretty good; back three cylinders were running a hair lean and I got one of the header tubes (#4) up to 900F before I caught it and richened it up a bit; the tube cooled right back down.

 

Getting a new timing light this evening; GOT to get that advance figured out.