T-Bone028 Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 I'm hoping some of you can give me some ideas or inspiration for fixing my choke cables on my 72 240Z. Seems that they have frozen and arent allowing me to operate the choke. I've tried spraying a little WD-40 into the sheath, and giving it some firm pulling in hopes of breaking it loose, but no luck. Does anybody have any tips on either repairing the frozen cables, or sources for a fix? I've searched and seen some people using universal-style cables, cannibalizing a lawn mower or bicycle brake cable, and other similar fixes. Only thing I can find at the auto parts store has been a universal replacement for a hood release cable, but I think it might be a little too big to fit. I'm also thinking of relocating the choke lever right underneath the hood release cable/handle and making a bracket to make it work. I've seen a bracket that some people have made to have it sit in the stock position, but I cant find any existing holes to attach it to, and would rather not drill into the trans tunnel. Does anyone have any other suggestions or pictures of their own setups? Any tips or "lessons-learned" advice would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris.Is.Awesome Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Disconnect where the cable attaches- you might find the cable is free, yet the actual choke could be frozen. If the cable is seized soak it in some simple green. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted January 14, 2010 Author Share Posted January 14, 2010 The choke itself isnt frozen and moves freely, its the cables themselves that have seized. I'll try to soak them and see if that helps loosen it up. Does anyone else have any other suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 What i did was take the cables out of the car, and remove the sheath from the inner cable. Then go over the inner cable and make sure that it wasnt bent and if it was try my best to straighten it out. Then put the cable back into the sheath with a light coating of grease. Make sure that it doesnt bind, and put it in the car! problem solved! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted January 14, 2010 Author Share Posted January 14, 2010 I guess my question is, I cant get the cable out of the sheath because it is seized? Or maybe I just dont understand what you mean by removing the inner cable from the sheath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Oh, im sorry! I must have went brain dead for a second. Simple mistake of reading but not fully comprehending! Marvel Mystery Oil is some amazing stuff! you could try soaking them in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Horriblefrieght sells a small device you clamp around the cable housing and cable. You then spray a solvent or oil into a hole for that purpose. It just may work. You could ask if anyone has a spare for sell on the cheap too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted January 14, 2010 Author Share Posted January 14, 2010 Thanks all, well I went to the auto parts store during my lunch break, and ended up with two "universal" throttle remote cables. About 5' long each with a flexible metal sheath. I'm hoping I can make it work and actually look okay at the same time. I'm planning on relocating my choke cables underneath the hood release handle with some brackets. I'll post pictures if this little ghetto fix proves to be successful and provides both "form" and "function". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoov100 Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 bicycle shop would be the place to go, to get a custom cable like that though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waddiejohn Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 A friend sent me a reprint of a report from Machinist Workshop Magazine about a penetrating oil they tested that is home made using a fifty/fifty mix of ATF and Acetone and it supposedly beat out all the popular stuff by quite a bit. You might try mixing some up and soaking the cables in it for a day or two. Use all appropriate precautions of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted January 15, 2010 Author Share Posted January 15, 2010 Well, my attempt at a fix failed last night when I bought a 5 ft universal throttle cable. The inner cable itself was long enough, but the sheath was not. I'm heading to carquest today to pick up two 8ft cables and trimming to fit. Does anybody have a stock diagram or picture of the choke cables that attach at the SU end? My difficulty now is figuring out how to affix the sheath to the carb housing. Looking at my existing choke cables, the rubber is so deteriorated that I dont understand how they were attached at the carb from the factory (not where the cable ends are thread through, but how the sheath is connected). I'm not sure if I could use my old cables even if I were able to get them un-seized. After I can get this fixed I will actually have a car that runs without two people! (1 person to pull up on the choke, the other to start the car). Thanks to everyone for their input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 There is a small split clamp at each SU. One side of the clamp tightens to the nipple your SU that the cable sheathing sits in. The other part of the clamp tighens to the sheathing. The idea of the clamp is it prevents the sheathing from backing away from the SU when you're disengaging the fuel enrichment. That forces the solid core cable to move the SU lever properly. Without the clamp the fuel enrichment may not be fully removed causing the engine to run rich (fouled plugs and poor economy). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted January 15, 2010 Author Share Posted January 15, 2010 Thanks Ezzzz thats what I assumed as the only way to attach it. Unfortunately those clamps/crimps are long gone on my car. I am thinking of using some small diameter rubber hose and hose clamps to attach the sheathing to the nipple. Hopefully I can find a hose with a small enough inner diameter that will fit snuggly. Here's some pics for anyone that is interested in my newest acquisition. This isnt my first Z, but its in FAR better condition and I would say about 98% complete. Restoration was completed in 2002, and I picked it up a week ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8INtheZ Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Swap in a V8 with an electric choked carb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 Thanks everyone for your input, I made a fix out of a pair of universal throttle cables (8 ft long) trimmed them to fit, a couple of small diameter rubber tubing bits, hose clamps, and some misc brackets. The choke knobs (havent figured out a way to connect both knobs together yet) are now relocated next to the hood release and mounted using the same mounting holes as the hood release bracket. Overall, very clean and dont have to worry about putting stress on the console. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoov100 Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 dude, for $25 shipped I'll send you a good set of choke cable, priority mail.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundmasterg Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 dude, for $25 shipped I'll send you a good set of choke cable, priority mail.. I'm still looking for some if you've got your issues solved with doing a mailing label hoov100? Let me know and I can get them from you. Thanks, greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 $25 shipped is a great price. Cost me about $40 in materials and parts to get mine working again and they arent even close to OEM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadesh Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 Thanks everyone for your input, I made a fix out of a pair of universal throttle cables (8 ft long) trimmed them to fit, a couple of small diameter rubber tubing bits, hose clamps, and some misc brackets. The choke knobs (havent figured out a way to connect both knobs together yet) are now relocated next to the hood release and mounted using the same mounting holes as the hood release bracket. Overall, very clean and dont have to worry about putting stress on the console. Hi, Would you mind posting some pics of how you setup the cables. I am interested in learning that. I am having choke issues as well. That would be lot of help. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted January 29, 2010 Author Share Posted January 29, 2010 I will try to get pictures taken. It was pretty easy though once I started thinking about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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