Lazyeye Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 I just put a new pilot bushing, release bearing, Centerforce 2 clutch and Fidanza flywheel into my 1979 280zx. I can't get the clutch to disengage. I was able to ease it into reverse, but that was difficult, and I can't get it into other gears. The clutch pedal doesn't come all the way up. The fluid level in the master cylinder is above "low" and below "full". Would replacing the clutch fluid or draining it resolve this, or do I need a longer slave cylinder push rod/pin as suggested here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135091 If I need a longer slave cylinder push rod, what size do I need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazyeye Posted January 28, 2010 Author Share Posted January 28, 2010 More details: I made a push rod out of a bolt that was the maximum length I could fit into the system. I'm still having the same symptoms, I can't shift, it just grinds. Should I bleed the system? The shift lever is being held onto the tranny by a bolt (lost the original piece) and is a little bit looser than with the original piece, could this be the issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slopoke Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 Mine is doing the same thing with the Centerforce clutch. And I also tried the longer push rod which did not work. Tried swapping the tranny's (several times). And tried to bleed the system for several hours straight. I was talking to a friend of mine and he was telling me it sounds like a TOB problem. He says go to Nissan and get the OEM TOB... even though the aftermarket ones are "OEM spec" they aren't what they should be. I still have yet to try it... My 280 is buried under a bunch of parts from the other Z... Hopefully can get to it within the next couple of weeks. If you find out anything let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 Try bleeding the system. If the pedal is not all the way up then you possibly have air in the line. I know when I pulled my motor and put it back in, I got a ton of air in the system some how. You may also have to adjust your master cylinder at the pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 What size clutches are these? I also had this problem on my 78, it turned out all I needed to do was adjust my clutch Master Cylinder rod length. AutoZone's unit comes with a rod that is too short and you need to keep the stock rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazyeye Posted January 28, 2010 Author Share Posted January 28, 2010 (edited) Clutch: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCC02/21-2011 Centerforce 2, 225mm for 74-83 non-turbo coupe. Replacing OEM non-turbo clutch Flywheel: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCC06/21-2021 The master cylinder rod length, is that the piece thats part of the pedal assembly? The throwout bearing is an OEM type (new), same manufacturer and model number as the Nissan dealer listed. For bleeding the system, can you offer any advice outside of what the FSM says? Thanks guys. Edited January 30, 2010 by Lazyeye adding details Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 There should be a threaded rod that comes through the fireware and bolts connects to the pedal. You can adjust this to make up for slack in the pedal. As far as bleeding goes, just have one person pump the pedal a bit and hold it down on the floor while another person cracks the bleeder on the slave cylinder. Make sure you tighten the bleeder screw before he lets back off the pedal(this keeps air from getting back in the system). Repeat this proccess untill the pedal feels nice and firm and comes all the way back up on its own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slopoke Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 There should be a threaded rod that comes through the fireware and bolts connects to the pedal. You can adjust this to make up for slack in the pedal. As far as bleeding goes, just have one person pump the pedal a bit and hold it down on the floor while another person cracks the bleeder on the slave cylinder. Make sure you tighten the bleeder screw before he lets back off the pedal(this keeps air from getting back in the system). Repeat this proccess untill the pedal feels nice and firm and comes all the way back up on its own. I have done both of these.... I adjust it all the way out and it still wont adjust, I try to pull it all the way in, and the pedal goes to the floor.... I've bled my system several times, hours at a time... I have NO IDEA what I did wrong. But I'm about to pull it out and shove a stock clutch in and see if that makes any difference. I've heard it sounds like a pressure plate issue as well?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 First question: Did the hydraulics work before you replaced the clutch? If so, then they should function fine with the new clutch, and adjusting everything will just cause yourself more problems. Second question: Are you sure you have the correct throwout bearing sleeve? They come in different lengths (at least 3), and if your original is too short, the clutch will never fully disengage. Nigel '73 240ZT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazyeye Posted January 28, 2010 Author Share Posted January 28, 2010 Nigel, 1. The hydraulics worked before I replaced the clutch. 2. I didn't change the sleeve, I removed the old bearing and put a new one on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 Nigel,1. The hydraulics worked before I replaced the clutch. 2. I didn't change the sleeve, I removed the old bearing and put a new one on. And so, what would you conclude from that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 You will most likly need a different (longer) collar due to a shorter pp. Was said here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=157779&highlight=pressure+throwout+bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 You will most likly need a different (longer) collar due to a shorter pp. Was said here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=157779&highlight=pressure+throwout+bearing. So Lazyeye, you were already warned a month ago, numerous times, by several other people that the throwout bearing sleeve (collar) has to match the pressure plate, and you still haven't checked it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazyeye Posted January 29, 2010 Author Share Posted January 29, 2010 I missed that. Sorry for wasting your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 I remember the first clutch I replaced in my ZX was a bit beefier than the stock one and the first time I pushed the pedal, it blew my master cylinder. Try spapping in a new master and slave cylinder and see what that does for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazyeye Posted January 29, 2010 Author Share Posted January 29, 2010 So my plan of action will be to drop the tranny and use a clutch collar off a 280zx turbo such as this one: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/21-2123 This ^ is the part we're talking about right? I just want to confirm so I don't make another mistake. Thank you all for being patient with me, before I started this project I'd never even changed my own oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 Just to let you know, the T5 tubo collar is shorter than the N/A 5 speed collar. I just went through this thinking that the T5 one was longer, but no its not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazyeye Posted January 30, 2010 Author Share Posted January 30, 2010 Can someone confirm for me that the 2+2 TOB collar is longer than the coupe TOB collar? Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazyeye Posted February 20, 2010 Author Share Posted February 20, 2010 (edited) Sorry to resurrect this but I need info. After being told I needed a 2+2 collar, I bought one and then found out it was SHORTER than what I needed. So then I researched more and found this: http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html Which suggested that the 4-speed sleeve was longer. Well I got my sleeve for a 4-speed today and its the same length as the collar that was originally in my 5-speed. http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg154/variablex85/Mobile%20Uploads/1266633953.jpg Left to right: 2+2 30501-K0404 (too short), 4-speed 30501-1c104 (same length as original), the original out of my 5-speed '79 (too short) So I'm at a loss here. The Nissan dealership thats been helping me says there is one other Sleeve, part number 30501-S0284. But I couldn't find out what its length is since its a special order item. Before I blow another $20 on a sleeve that may or may not be the correct sleeve, can anybody tell me which one I *should* be looking for? EDIT: Its looking like that may not have been the issue in the first place. I finally took calipers to measure, and the flywheel isn't thinner as thought. I'm investigating the hydraulic system and clutch pedal as the culprit. This thread can probably die now. Edited February 22, 2010 by Lazyeye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbooth Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 I recently had same problem when switching to Fidenza 240mm flywheel and Centerforce dual friction assembly. I could not work thru gears unless I preloaded to bearing with slave cyl rod. I replaced master cyl and went to non adj style fork for 280z and longest available collar for TO bearing. Bought these new from Dave at AZC. No improvement. Dave also lent me a new oem style 240mm pp and disk. No improvement. Snow came and put car up for winter. 2 weeks ago took out Fidenza flywheel and CF dual friction and replaced with an extra HKS 10 lb steel 225 flywheel and cf 2 clutch for my na autox car and all worked perfect. I had also tried longer slave rods to no avail. The Fidenza is on it's way back to be checked for proper dimensions. I suggest you try a stock or known flywheel and a known clutch(your cf is probably ok) for a diagnostic step. I have struggled with lack of engagement for 2 months. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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