oldschool2 Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 After fixing a "Thermostat Bypass Hose" leak I discovered I had the dreaded 2400 to 2500 RPM rev limiter effect. TPS posts quickly sent me in the correct direction. I discovered significant coolant pooling in the top of the TPS (under the connector). Pooling was removed by using a "Can of Computer Air" to blow-out the green coolant. Now car runs excellent. QUESTION: Has anyone mounted their TPS in an upside down position (flip it 180)? Any known reason to not try this? I am not sure of clearance due to piping under TPS. Otherwise, any functional issues with this ideal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyuri Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 I believe the shaft is keyed one way, I know the TPS is (see picture), and I don't think the wire would reach the bottom anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldschool2 Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 Thanks for the input! I have a new TPS on order. Trying to locate a new Connector. When I get the new parts I will look closer at the fitment. Any alternate suggestions for sealing the top of the connector and TPS? I guess at the least I can wrap foil around the TPS/Connector assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilbertZ Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 Thanks for the input! I have a new TPS on order. Trying to locate a new Connector. When I get the new parts I will look closer at the fitment. Any alternate suggestions for sealing the top of the connector and TPS? I guess at the least I can wrap foil around the TPS/Connector assembly. I went through this adventure last year too - what a fun way to find out how it works..... I used heat shrink tubing to seal it up. I replaced my injector wire pigtails/boots with BOSCH OEM new parts this summer, and the connector worked for several other components in the engine bay, but not the TPS - I'd love to know that part number so I can score the connector/booth combo and take care of this issue once and for all! Subscribed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trippintl0 Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 (edited) Go to the junkyard and look at Volvo's and other Bosch injection cars. They have the 3-terminal plug that fits on the TPS, but they are completely insulated and look really nice and pretty. Cut it off, solder & heat-shrink it to your existing wiring harness. (edit) - Just FYI I've actually done this, unfortunately I don't know which exact year or model, but I am 100% sure I have a nice clean insulated OEM plug from another vehicle on my L28E's TPS. Edited February 9, 2010 by trippintl0 add something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldschool2 Posted February 9, 2010 Author Share Posted February 9, 2010 I looked on Ebay and found a TPS that susposedly fit 280ZX cars and others. Anyone familiar with any of the noted? If this is correct then the connector must be the same (or am I missing something?). 1980 Nissan 280ZX : 6-2754 2.8L 1980 Nissan 280ZX Anniversary : 6-2754 2.8L 1981 Nissan 810/Maxima : 6-2393 2.4L 1981 Nissan 810 Maxima : 6-2393 2.4L 1981 Nissan 810 Maxima Diesel : 6-2393 2.4L 1982 Nissan 810/Maxima : 6-2393 2.4L 1983 Nissan 810/Maxima : 6-2393 2.4L 1981 Nissan 280ZX GL Turbo : 6-2754 2.8L 1982 Nissan 280ZX Turbo : 6-2754 2.8L 1983 Nissan 280ZX Turbo : 6-2754 2.8L 1982 Nissan 200SX : 4-2200 2.2L Z22E 1983 Nissan 200SX : 4-2200 2.2L Z22E 1989 Nissan Stanza : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1989 Nissan Stanza E : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1989 Nissan Stanza GXE : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1984 Nissan Stanza : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1984 Nissan Stanza GL : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1984 Nissan Stanza XE : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1985 Nissan Stanza : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1985 Nissan Stanza GL : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1985 Nissan Stanza XE : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1986 Nissan Stanza : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1986 Nissan Stanza E : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1986 Nissan Stanza GL : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1986 Nissan Stanza XE : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1986 Nissan Stanza XE (4wd) : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1987 Nissan Stanza : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1987 Nissan Stanza E : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1987 Nissan Stanza GXE : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1987 Nissan Stanza XE : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1987 Nissan Stanza XE (4wd) : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1988 Nissan Stanza : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1988 Nissan Stanza E : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1988 Nissan Stanza GXE : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1988 Nissan Stanza XE : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1988 Nissan Stanza XE (4wd) : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E Throttle Position Sensor[Reference to: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS, Part #: TH114 // OE #158-0132, 22620-D3300, 22620-N8560, 22620-P8100 ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 After fixing a "Thermostat Bypass Hose" leak I discovered I had the dreaded 2400 to 2500 RPM rev limiter effect. TPS posts quickly sent me in the correct direction. I discovered significant coolant pooling in the top of the TPS (under the connector). Pooling was removed by using a "Can of Computer Air" to blow-out the green coolant. Now car runs excellent. QUESTION: Has anyone mounted their TPS in an upside down position (flip it 180)? Any known reason to not try this? I am not sure of clearance due to piping under TPS. Otherwise, any functional issues with this ideal? Why not fill the connector with di-electric grease? It's cheap,easy, and it's the same thing the auto manufacturers do to prevent corrosion in the plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldschool2 Posted February 9, 2010 Author Share Posted February 9, 2010 I guess the dielectric grease would be applied in the TPS male fitting end. When the connector female end is plugged in, the male plugs would scrape off most of the “non-conductive†dielectric grease when inserted / plugged in (allowing for a electrical contact between the male and female fittings). If the grease was not scraped off the contact "might" be affected. Yes? There seems to be some disagreement as to the function of dielectric (non-conductive) vs. conductive grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 (edited) I guess the dielectric grease would be applied in the TPS male fitting end. When the connector female end is plugged in, the male plugs would scrape off most of the “non-conductive” dielectric grease when inserted / plugged in (allowing for a electrical contact between the male and female fittings). If the grease was not scraped off the contact "might" be affected. Yes? There seems to be some disagreement as to the function of dielectric (non-conductive) vs. conductive grease. I am an electrician and use di-electric grease all the time. It works well for keeping foreign materials out.The plug will make its way through the grease.I recommend it in ALL connectors!! Here's a link that might help you decide. Also try Dow-Corning DC-4. https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/E7D49FEC1C1903B6882571870000D946/$File/DIEG-EN.pdf Edited February 10, 2010 by macambra added dielectric grease PDF link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldschool2 Posted February 10, 2010 Author Share Posted February 10, 2010 Specifically, my TPS had heavy coolant pooling in the "cup" area that the 3 prongs are in (circled in white in attached pic). If I fill the "cup" about halfway with Dielectric grease, then insert the female connector onto the male fitting TPS, will the process be correct? Otherwise, the TPS cupped area (that the 3 prongs are in) will be open to future water invasion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 A quick fix is to use heat shrink with meltable glue or a meltable inner jacket to make the connection water tight. It does mean that you either have to cut it off or re-heat it to disconnect the connector the next time - but then again how often do you need to do that.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldschool2 Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 Thanks for the connector sealing ideals. When I get the new TPS and hopefully a suitable new Connector I plan to use both Heat Shrink and Dielectric (still not sure of correct application method) as a preventative of future water invasion. Still unsolved is replacing the Connector (female plug). As near as I can determine the Connector is part of the "main engine bay wiring harness." I have looked for a Universal type Connector. Not much luck (most are round pin). The long list of applications above may lead to a new harness via Ebay. So far zipo. There is / was a new 280zx harness for $150.00 on Ebay, but I am not "that" motivated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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