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Here we go again...most bizarre problem yet


jacob80

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After I replaced the damaged components, I disabled the PWM stuff and ran the car AT VERY LOW DUTY CYCLE ONLY to verify that was the problem. Problem was gone.

 

read this entire thread:

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=154385

 

Yep, I was having similar problems as you, just not that bad. The resistors worked out well for me.

 

I'm retarded and pulled the PWM off [100%] and ran the car and immediately blew my injector drivers at the first punch of the throttle :rolleyesg

 

Get everything installed before you do it, don't get impatient like I did. The resistors are fairly cheap and it can't hurt to try it.

 

What plugs are you running? I am running NGK BPR7ES, I need Magnecor KV85 ignition wires with EMI suppression but unfortunately I'm a bit low on funds at the moment. I still get some EMI noise from time to time but nothing incredibly bad.

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Plugs are some NGK Iridiums, not sure of the P/N. Last night I attempted to start the car, and it did start, and then when it died, the fuel pump ran momentarily (as it should) but then did a reset and looped the reset process twice, it was definitly freaking out! Luckily it stopped after the two resets, but just another sign of weird happenings with this megasquirt.

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Well I think you guys are officially geniuses, I'm pretty sure the reflash worked. Although it was missing on a cylinder (fouled plug), the car was not experiencing any roughness that it was and autotune was working, yay!! Here is my MSQ, let me know what you guys think. I cannot thanks you guys enough!!!!!!! HybridZ RULES

 

http://www.mediafire.com/?mjnww1mnrng

 

I'll let you guys know if I have more success tomorrow. THANK YOU!!!!!!

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Make sure you watch for resets to occur while you are working on the car for the next few weeks. Also read the sticky about reset problems, it goes over many different areas to look into. If the reflash fixed it, so be it. I have a feeling you have an underlying problem that caused the need of a reflash. I had to deal with these problems on one megasquirt install and it took literally rewiring and working on every single piece of the electrical from battery, alt, ground wires, relay board, megasquirt. It wasn't fun, but it started from a shotty wiring and install job and took a long time to clean up. And the ongoing symptom was resets and having to reflash firmware every couple weeks.

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Yeah, I take it back, its running like crap :( Here is my MSQ and a datalog:

 

Datalog:

 

http://www.mediafire.com/?d40zvoxz0je

 

MSQ:

 

http://www.mediafire.com/?hjnzgyz2jgz

 

 

The RPM/AFRs are just going up and down and up and down, and I have zero idea why. Then, it will just die out of nowhere while idling and when the megasquirt resets, I can see the lights on the box momentarily flash off, then on. I think a complete rewire may be in store, unfortunately. Any ideas?

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I would concentrate on chasing the reset/noise/voltage problem, then when you are not seeing any resets and no spikes on TPS or MAP you will be able to tune the car. Read through the sticky on reset problems and start to figure out if any of the suggestions apply to your installation.

 

Also, look at it this way: you set out to use megasquirt and if your install would have worked right away you would not have the chance to learn more in depth troubleshooting. If you take your time and start to lay out a good problem solving plan, this kind of project will help you move up to areas that most people will never be able to work on for their car projects. We all like projects to work out easily, but we rarely learn much from those kind of projects.

Edited by mobythevan
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I would concentrate on chasing the reset/noise/voltage problem, then when you are not seeing any resets and no spikes on TPS or MAP you will be able to tune the car. Read through the sticky on reset problems and start to figure out if any of the suggestions apply to your installation.

 

Also, look at it this way: you set out to use megasquirt and if your install would have worked right away you would not have the chance to learn more in depth troubleshooting. If you take your time and start to lay out a good problem solving plan, this kind of project will help you move up to areas that most people will never be able to work on for their car projects. We all like projects to work out easily, but we rarely learn much from those kind of projects.

 

That is very good advice, I believe you're absolutely right! Just went out and wiggled some wires around the distributor while the car was running and it fell on its face. I go to crank it and nothing....the fuel pump won't even prime now and I brought the ECU inside and hooked up the stim board and now the stim board lights nor the ECU lights will come on, nothing. Have I blown my board? If I have, how do I know? Ughh this is so odd, I'm not sure what to do now. Please help!

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Okay, scratch what I just said, I just reloaded the firmware and everything seems to be working. Okay, so what we have here is some sort of voltage spike that I caused by wiggling the wires right around the distributor which must have completely fouled the firmware. What now? What, up around the distributor wiring, would cause this? I was wiggling the wires coming from the distributor.

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Id check your wiring and solder connections. I used an old 280ZX NA harness, lopped off the ECU plug and soldered all the correct wires to the DB plug and Ive had ZERO problems. Of course, I was completely meticuliious about testing and retesting solder joints, making sure I had enough insulation and sheilding and checking continuity at every step.

 

Also, are you using a VB921 to control spark? I had a helluva time with mine. I eventually gave up and ran a nissan ignitor from a SOHC VG maxima and wired it in prettymuch like a GM HEI module, but then ran the proper dwell settings so as not to fry it. I havent had any problems since.

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I just swapped to the bosch upgrade. I'll go through the dizzy wires tomorrow night and will see what happens, whether they're okay or perhaps something is right. Could grounding the ground strap (smaller gauge wire) and the megasquirt to the same ground cause a problem?

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What is your grounding setup like for the battery/alternator/engine/chassis? Where do you connect the ground cable from the battery? How many grounds do you have from the engine to the chassis? This will start to give us an idea is this is a problem or you already have a good grounding approach.

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I had my grounds set up to where there is the main ground from the battery to the starter bolt, another going to the body, then the MS harness/old L28 harness is still grounded in all the usual spots that a stock harness is grounded to, i.e. the intake manifold as well as the body directly across from it, and the nissan ignitor is grounded to the body as well.

 

From what I hear, MS is sensative to grounding issues, so I didnt want to take any chances.

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