rvannly Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Just wanted to put in my 2 cents. A few months ago a friend of mine had issues with his ms that I installed for him. He had similar symptoms and it ended up being a broken solder joint on the DB connector(ground wire). Might want to check there, if you used a DB connector with the solder pots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 Are you talking about the ground you have to solder for the megasquirt? I'm running a relay board, so there is a ground, switched 12v, and straight fused 12v that had to be soldered. Like I said, I will be going through all my grounds and possible just resoldering everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Well I'll try and run through all my grounds and make sure everything is up to Par I suppose. Just bizarre because I've run the car for almost a year now without any kind of problem like this. Very bizarre... Did you read the sticky on reset problems yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 Did you read the sticky on reset problems yet? Yes I did, and I went through the entire thread. I'm going to go through it again and see what I can carry over to my car. That aside, I did find that my ground for my dizzy was questionable, so I went ahead and resoldered that connection and datalogged it. Here are the datalogs, the first one is starting it completely cold: http://www.mediafire.com/file/izz2vinmyye/1-19-10 (1).xls http://www.mediafire.com/file/dg1kywdey2z/1-19-10 (2).xls Well, here is the first voltage drop to 7.9v. I will say that I noticed no resets this time just by sitting in the car. Here it is: Here is a second drop, except this one is a drop down to 8v. Is this a normal behaivor? There seems to be no other variables affected by this voltage drop: As for the first datalog, those are really the only voltage drops, with 7.9v at the lowest point, is this okay? On the second datalog is when a reset happens, although I did not notice it by sitting in the car. Here is the first reset/voltage drop: Does this look normal? On to the next one. On this one, it isn't a reset, but it is a significant voltage drop. I believe I punched the gas pretty good and fast, but didn't seem to affect the variable there after: Another one, looks like I hit the gas pretty good. Doesn't look like a reset but just a big voltage drop: Let me know what you guys think, maybe I fixed it? My only question is, why are my AFRs so inconsistant? At one point, I locked in the spark advance shown here: Its very weird, maybe the pulse widths are too big? I'm completely guessing here...any help is appreciated fellas, thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 FYI, those "resets" are just communication glitches. If the reset were real, SecL would reset to zero and stay there. A lot of the other odd spikes also seem to be communication related and not really happening, either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 FYI, those "resets" are just communication glitches. If the reset were real, SecL would reset to zero and stay there. A lot of the other odd spikes also seem to be communication related and not really happening, either. So looking at the two datalogs above, would you conclude I am not expeiencing anything abnormal at this point? Are the inconsistent AFRs a completely different problem? I would assume so, but I think it's a tuning issue, I'll be starting another thread about that, as well this evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Try this. 1. Cut the center leg on Q9 and Q12 or desolder it so it does not reach the PCB. 2. Run a length of jumper wire from the center leg of Q9 and Q12 to an unused pin on the DB37 connector. 3. Wire this pin to a 12 volt source in the wiring harness, separate from the Megasquirt's power supply wire. I just did this and it cleared up all of my voltage spikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Also, if you decide to do this; when you choose an unused pin on the DB37 connector, check with your multi meter to make sure that pin is not grounded to the board. This will ground out the 12v that you ran back through the connector and can potentially damage something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 I am not sure what path the OP is on, but he doesn't seem to know if his box has any real problems or just data logging to laptop problems. Until he figures that out he would be crazy to start hacking up the box with every fix that everyone suggest. I am not saying that these are not fixes, but the OP needs to get a plan and stick with. A plan that answers some basic questions, like is he really getting noise/reset problems or not. I have read all the threads by the OP and he does not have a solid troubleshooting plan and has not had one since the beginning of this problem. I know he has been trying all kinds of suggestions that are thrown out without understanding the real problems so maybe he will continue that way. This is a very very confusing path to be on. I just want to mention a couple things at this point: 1. If firmware is being lost and having to be reloaded then you have a noise/wiring/build/install/reset problem, no question about it. I have worked through enough installs to see that only the ones with noise/wiring/build/install problems have blown away the firmware. The others that were clean well prepped installs have runs for many years without ever losing firmware. 2. If the laptop log shows battery voltage problems you need to confirm 100% that you have a datalog problem that is causing this or you need to confirm that the battery voltage is bad at the megasquirt box like the datalog shows. 3. If you reach a point where you no longer have blown away firmware, no longer see "real" resets and see good constant battery voltage at the megasquirt board then you are ready for the next step (maybe see if the car idles OK). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Jacob, do you have any datalogs from a time before you started experiencing these problems? If so, can you post a random screen shot from one showing your vBatt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 I do not unfortunately if I can figure out how to get a more consistent idle and figure out autotune so it doesn't say "Tuning point outside window" perhaps I could start tuning and get a datalog and see what it looks like. Amy suggestions with these two remaining problems (hopefully!)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 My suggestion would be to turn off all enrichments and not use auto tune until you figure out your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 I do not unfortunately if I can figure out how to get a more consistent idle and figure out autotune so it doesn't say "Tuning point outside window" perhaps I could start tuning and get a datalog and see what it looks like. Amy suggestions with these two remaining problems (hopefully!)? To get the car to idle you should not have any kind of correction or autotune turned on, you should be following the megamanual for tuning to get the engine to start and idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Here is the link to the tuning manual: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Tuning_Manual.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 To get the car to idle you should not have any kind of correction or autotune turned on, you should be following the megamanual for tuning to get the engine to start and idle. That's right. The car idles, but has a hunting/wandering idle, what adjustment do i make to correct this? Adjusting VE tables values does not seem to work. Once I get a stable, consistsnt idle, I would like to enable autotune and datalog a gentle drive and see how it looks and monitor whether I get anymore voltage spikes or true megasquirt resets. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 You know I'm starting to wonder if there's a problem with your serial cable to your laptop. If the sense or ground lines on the communications side have an intermittent short and are causing a spike through the comm system that could cause the errant logs and the firmware corruption. Do you have another cable you can try? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 Well I am using the diyautotune serial cable which I just bought because I was using a USB cable that kept causing megatune to freeze, and it fixed that problem. I really just need to know how to fix this wandering idle issue... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 You need to fix your voltage problem first. Other than that, it does apear like you have a communication problem. I get resets from time to time, and in my logs I get similar spikes across the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Often a wandering idle can be caused by the idle mixture being too lean, tolerances on the TPS/MAP dot being too tight, auto tune could be attempting to readjust every time the mix gets slightly out. I would check you tables and make sure they're close to what you want then shut off the autotune feature and see it evens out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 What is TPS/MAP dot? Did you also mean to say disable EGO correction? I say this because regardless of autotune being on or off, this wandering still occurs. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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