240z electronic ignition help

[Mikez31ss]

Yep, rebuilt. I guess a new pickup coil wasn't in the rebuilder's budget.

I think there must be a problem with my wiring. Surely I can't have two bad pickup coils and two bad ignition modules. I put a test light on the coil + and got light. I tried it on coil - and got light. I pulled the coil wire off the distributor and cranked the starter. No spark. I haven't tried the test for pulse. I'm working alone and I'll have to find a way to attach the light to check it while I crank the starter.

One thing I don't understand is that there was only the black wire to the old distributor. It was attached to the condenser on the distributor. This wire isn't used in the new setup right? Only the black wire that was on the old coil's - terminal is used with the new setup?

Here's a couple of pics of the bottom of the old pickup coil. I was in a hurry when I soldered those connecters back on. The new pickup has the same resistance. I may need a new meter...

[vantage]

A test light might not be the correct equiment to check out a coil, you cannot measure a voltage in the pickup coil as long as there is no magnetic pickup inducing a field (and even then, a multimeter or scope would be the better tool).

 

The original black wire from the distributor is connected to the points and switches ground to the coil every time the points are closed, you dont need it in a transistor ingnition/coil pickup setup. The condenser is also only required for a points based setup, a transistor ignition never requires a points or coil condenser.

 

Just to be sure the resistance test is done correct (sorry for bothering you with this), set your multimeter to Ohm/Resistance/Ω and put one probe on the solder pad for the green wire/coil connection (the one on the round plastic carrier) and the other probe on the solder pad for the red wire. The coil pickup should not be connected to the ignition module (or anything else). What does your multimeter show, an open connection (infinite resistance), no resistance (0 Ohm, e.g. a short in the coil wiring), or a value? If your multimeter has different ranges for resistance, you need to set the range to 1-5Kohm.

 

To test your ignition amplifier (the black transistor box) together with the coil, shorten the connection where the red and green wire was connected, if you remove the wire you should see a spark.

[Mikez31ss]

You don't have to apologize for wondering if I'm doing the tests right. I'm obviously lost here and I appreciate your help. I don't think my meter is working. I'm getting OHM readings that are jumping around. I'm going to see if I can borrow a good meter and start over.

 

I don't know if this has any significance but the alt light has stopped lighting up when I turn the key to start. The starter still cranks and the battery reads 11 volts.

Edited March 8, 2010 by Mikez31ss

[vantage]

You don't have to apologize for wondering if I'm doing the tests right. I'm obviously lost here and I appreciate your help. I don't think my meter is working. I'm getting OHM readings that are jumping around. I'm going to see if I can borrow a good meter and start over.

 

I don't know if this has any significance but the alt light has stopped lighting up when I turn the key to start. The starter still cranks and the battery reads 11 volts.

 

Readings jumping around could be a contact problem between the probes and the coils solder pads. If you put the two probes together, you should be able to read 0 Ohm as a quick test. You can get a decent multimeter on ebay, if you spend at least $15-$20.

 

Not sure about the alt light, i don't remember my '72 240Z even having one. 11 Volt is a bit on the low side, you should see 12.5 with a healthy battery and between 12.5-14.8V with the engine running.

[Mikez31ss]

Ok...I had my battery recharged and I think my meter is working now so I'm going to recap.

I've got more than 1000 ohms at the pickup. The HEI module is good too.

12 volts between coil positive and ground.

12 volts between coil negative and ground.

0-1 volts between coil pos and coil neg.

No spark.

 

I found three wires in the harness cut and taped up near the coil.

Green... for the noise suppression capacitor?

Green & white...must have been for the ballast resistor.

Black & yellow... Has 12 volts with the key in "run". With the key off it has continuity with the green & white wire.

 

A shorter black & white wire w/ a female connector was hanging loose. No power.

A longer black & wire wire was connected to the coil positive. 12 volts.

A black wire was connected to the coil negative.

 

One thing that I'm curious about is the way the coil was wired when I got the car.

There was no ballast resistor so the resistor wasn't shorted obviously but the wires that should have been connected to the resistor weren't connected together.

And the coil was a "use with ballast resistor" type.

Edited March 11, 2010 by Mikez31ss

[vantage]

 

I found three wires in the harness cut and taped up near the coil.

Green... for the noise suppression capacitor?

Green & white...must have been for the ballast resistor.

Black & yellow... Has 12 volts with the key in "run". With the key off it has continuity with the green & white wire.

 

A shorter black & white wire w/ a female connector was hanging loose. No power.

A longer black & wire wire was connected to the coil positive. 12 volts.

A black wire was connected to the coil negative.

 

One thing that I'm curious about is the way the coil was wired when I got the car.

There was no ballast resistor so the resistor wasn't shorted obviously but the wires that should have been connected to the resistor weren't connected together.

And the coil was a "use with ballast resistor" type.

 

The pickup coil seems to be good, >1Kohm sounds ok.

 

The cable identification is correct, see my chart below. Not sure about black and yellow, should be black and white. The ballast resistor seems to have been removed to always have the full +12V at the coil. This would have overheated the coil and put additional load on the points.

 

1. Module voltage supply: Do you see +12 Volt when measuring the voltage at the HEI modules ground connector and terminal 'B'? Make sure that the HEI module ground connection is good and there is +12V at 'B' before continuing with step 2.

 

2. Module trigger: with all components in place, when you bridge the red and green wire going to the pickup coil, do you get a spark then?

If you get a spark, then either the polarity of the pickup coil seems to be a problem for this specific HEI module (try to swap red and green), or the pickup coil inductivity and output signal is not compatible with this HEI module, but this is unlikely.

If you don't get a spark with bridging the input at G and W, then your module might be defective or the coil wiring is the problem. Do you have the E12-80 transistor module for a test available?

 

3. Coil: try wiring up a +12 Volt bulb instead of the coil, it should stay on until you bridge green and red. If you turn the starter, the bulb should flash for each trigger.

 

4. Voltage supply: try a test run without the tacho in line by connecting the green white and black white wire originally wired to the ballast resistor (see chart) to coil (+) and the HEI modules terminal 'B'.

Edited March 11, 2010 by vantage

[Mikez31ss]

The pickup coil seems to be good, >1Kohm sounds ok.

 

The cable identification is correct, see my chart below. Not sure about black and yellow, should be black and white. The ballast resistor seems to have been removed to always have the full +12V at the coil. This would have overheated the coil and put additional load on the points.

 

1. Module voltage supply: Do you see +12 Volt when measuring the voltage at the HEI modules ground connector and terminal 'B'? Make sure that the HEI module ground connection is good and there is +12V at 'B' before continuing with step 2.

 

2. Module trigger: with all components in place, when you bridge the red and green wire going to the pickup coil, do you get a spark then?

If you get a spark, then either the polarity of the pickup coil seems to be a problem for this specific HEI module (try to swap red and green), or the pickup coil inductivity and output signal is not compatible with this HEI module, but this is unlikely.

If you don't get a spark with bridging the input at G and W, then your module might be defective or the coil wiring is the problem. Do you have the E12-80 transistor module for a test available?

 

3. Coil: try wiring up a +12 Volt bulb instead of the coil, it should stay on until you bridge green and red. If you turn the starter, the bulb should flash for each trigger.

 

4. Voltage supply: try a test run without the tacho in line by connecting the green white and black white wire originally wired to the ballast resistor (see chart) to coil (+) and the HEI modules terminal 'B'.

Hey Adrian ...wasn't sure you'd still be following this but I'm really glad you are. Ok first... I've removed the HEI module and wired the e1280 back in. Also I've reread a couple of those writeups and they say use the original distributor wire on the C terminal of the e1280. Think that's what I'm doing wrong?

I understand what you're saying about the ballast. The PO didn't mention going through a lot of coils and points. The original coil and the points do look new though.

The black/yellow wire is definitely black and yellow, no doubt about that. It's a bright yellow stripe, not faded white.

There are two black/white wires though. One has 12 volts and was the original coil + and the other one has no voltage and wasn't connected to anything.

There is a black wire coming out of the harness that was connected to the original coil negative terminal. And there is a black wire in the harness that was connected to the condenser on the old distributor.

This may be odd but it's how the car was wired.

I'll try using the condenser wire on C tomorrow. If that doesn't work I'll see if I can convert and use your HEI suggestions on the e1280.

Here's another diagram:

[vantage]

Hey Adrian ...wasn't sure you'd still be following this but I'm really glad you are. Ok first... I've removed the HEI module and wired the e1280 back in.

 

Also I've reread a couple of those writeups and they say use the original distributor wire on the C terminal of the e1280. Think that's what I'm doing wrong?

 

The black/yellow wire is definitely black and yellow, no doubt about that. It's a bright yellow stripe, not faded white.

 

There are two black/white wires though. One has 12 volts and was the original coil + and the other one has no voltage and wasn't connected to anything.

 

There is a black wire coming out of the harness that was connected to the original coil negative terminal. And there is a black wire in the harness that was connected to the condenser on the old distributor.

 

This may be odd but it's how the car was wired.

 

I'll try using the condenser wire on C tomorrow. If that doesn't work I'll see if I can convert and use your HEI suggestions on the e1280.

 

Still following but in a different timezone The E12-80 module would also be my preferred setup. Not sure what you mean with the original distributor wire, if this is the one connected to the points then it would make no sense to connect it to terminal C (coil -) on the E12-80 module.

 

I just checked the wiring scheme again and the only black/yellow wire next to the ignition seems to be the starter wire coming from the inhibitor switch in 240Zs with automatic transmission. Can't remember to have seen that on my '72 US 240Z, i have the following wires coming from the harness at the coil: B (Points), BW (Coil +), GW (Ballast), BW (Ballast).

 

The black/white wire with +12V is routed from the ignition switch via the tach to coil (+), the other one could be the one originally connected to the ballast, but it should have +12V when the ignition is turned on (see image in my last post).

 

The E12-80 conversion should be straightforward, connect E12-80 module terminal 'B' and coil (+) to +12V (supplied by BW originally connected to coil), and module terminal 'C' to coil (-).

 

Good luck,

Adrian

[Mikez31ss]

Still following but in a different timezone The E12-80 module would also be my preferred setup. Not sure what you mean with the original distributor wire, if this is the one connected to the points then it would make no sense to connect it to terminal C (coil -) on the E12-80 module.

 

I just checked the wiring scheme again and the only black/yellow wire next to the ignition seems to be the starter wire coming from the inhibitor switch in 240Zs with automatic transmission. Can't remember to have seen that on my '72 US 240Z, i have the following wires coming from the harness at the coil: B (Points), BW (Coil +), GW (Ballast), BW (Ballast).

 

The black/white wire with +12V is routed from the ignition switch via the tach to coil (+), the other one could be the one originally connected to the ballast, but it should have +12V when the ignition is turned on (see image in my last post).

 

The E12-80 conversion should be straightforward, connect E12-80 module terminal 'B' and coil (+) to +12V (supplied by BW originally connected to coil), and module terminal 'C' to coil (-).

 

Good luck,

Adrian

Yes it's the wire to the points condensor and no it doesn't make sense but...I'm at the point of grasping for straws here.

The John Hull diagram says to use that wire. But in his diagram it shows that wire as originating from the coil neg terminal. Mine isn't like that.

The conversion is straightforward. But it isn't working. That's what makes it frustrating.

[Mikez31ss]

I tried wiring up a 12v light in place of the distributor. No light.

With everything connected as in my diagram I can attach a test light between the coil + and body ground and get light. Same with coil - and body ground.

If I try the test light between the coil + and - I get no light. If I attach the light between the original coil black/white wire and the original coil black wire I get no light.

[vantage]

Got it, the points condenser wire is really the coil (-) wire, that makes sense. I've updated my chart below to show the E12-80 wiring, maybe that makes it a bit less confusing.

 

Getting a light between coil (+) and ground means that the coil receives a +12V supply = good. A light between coil (-) and ground shows that the primary coil is ok (the voltage goes from the (+) terminal through the primary coil to (-)) = good.

When you dont get a light between coil (+) and coil (-), even when turning the starter or bridging red and green, then the coil does does not receive any voltage (e.g. ground on (-)) to build up the magnetic field for the ignition spark, this indicates a defect in the E12-80 module, or the module is not properly connected to ground and/or +12V.

 

While the ignition is switched on, can you measure +12V between the modules 'B' terminal and ground?

Is the module properly grounded? (probably by connecting to the distributor casing, as there is no separate ground wire).

 

If both tests are ok, with the ignition on pull the wire from terminal 'C' and measure the voltage (or connect a test light) between 'C' and 'B' (or coil (+)). You should see +12V/light, at least when you bridge red and green or turn the starter. If there is no voltage then most probably the module is defect.

 

Edited March 12, 2010 by vantage

[Mikez31ss]

The pickup coil seems to be good, >1Kohm sounds ok.

 

The cable identification is correct, see my chart below. Not sure about black and yellow, should be black and white. The ballast resistor seems to have been removed to always have the full +12V at the coil. This would have overheated the coil and put additional load on the points.

 

1. Module voltage supply: Do you see +12 Volt when measuring the voltage at the HEI modules ground connector and terminal 'B'? Make sure that the HEI module ground connection is good and there is +12V at 'B' before continuing with step 2.

 

2. Module trigger: with all components in place, when you bridge the red and green wire going to the pickup coil, do you get a spark then?

If you get a spark, then either the polarity of the pickup coil seems to be a problem for this specific HEI module (try to swap red and green), or the pickup coil inductivity and output signal is not compatible with this HEI module, but this is unlikely.

If you don't get a spark with bridging the input at G and W, then your module might be defective or the coil wiring is the problem. Do you have the E12-80 transistor module for a test available?

 

3. Coil: try wiring up a +12 Volt bulb instead of the coil, it should stay on until you bridge green and red. If you turn the starter, the bulb should flash for each trigger.

 

4. Voltage supply: try a test run without the tacho in line by connecting the green white and black white wire originally wired to the ballast resistor (see chart) to coil (+) and the HEI modules terminal 'B'.

 

 

Got it, the points condenser wire is really the coil (-) wire, that makes sense.

 

I installed the HEI module again to try the suggestions in March 11 post. I thought I'd try it once more before reinstalling the points distributor. Two things though...

1. I didn't mean that the condenser wire was connected to the coil negative terminal in the original configuration. It wasn't. There was a wire for the condenser and a separate wire for the coil negative post. I'll post a diagram of how the original ignition was wired just to clarify.

2. In your suggestion to do a test run w/o the tach in line...it doesn't seem like there would be a point in connecting the green/white wire and the other black/white wire. The other black/white wire has no voltage.

 

I want to be sure I've got this right: if there is no voltage between the coil "+" and coil "-"...the coil is not going to fire? Is that correct or did I misunderstand you?

[vantage]

I installed the HEI module again to try the suggestions in March 11 post. I thought I'd try it once more before reinstalling the points distributor. Two things though...

1. I didn't mean that the condenser wire was connected to the coil negative terminal in the original configuration. It wasn't. There was a wire for the condenser and a separate wire for the coil negative post. I'll post a diagram of how the original ignition was wired just to clarify.

2. In your suggestion to do a test run w/o the tach in line...it doesn't seem like there would be a point in connecting the green/white wire and the other black/white wire. The other black/white wire has no voltage. .

 

I want to be sure I've got this right: if there is no voltage between the coil "+" and coil "-"...the coil is not going to fire? Is that correct or did I misunderstand you?

 

You shouldn't need to go back to points, your pickup coil is ok and it's unlikely that both the HEI module and the E12-80 module are defective, so it must be something basic (e.g. easy to fix) in the wiring The two charts i have posted should help finding the wiring issue, as the PO seems to have messed with the stock wiring.

 

1. I was referring to Johns wiring chart, where the condenser wire connects to coil (-), and is then repurposed to connect to terminal 'C' on the E12-80, your setup seems to have been modified though. Thanks for the diagram but i have to confess that i still dont grasp what has been changed on your stock wiring.

 

2. If the green/white wire supplies +12V in ignition and start position (check this with your test light), then that is sufficient for the test. The scope is to rule out the tachometer wiring as a possible problem.

Low priority, get back to this when you did the test in the last paragraph was positive

 

Correct, if you can't measure +12V between coil (+) and (-) while the key is in ignition or start position, then the coil won't fire. The reason for this is most probably the missing +12V and ground supply to the coil and/or the E12-80 module.

As a simple yet effective test i recommend to connect a 12V bulb (a standard 21W car bulb works nicely, or you use your test light). The bulb should be on in the ignition or start position, and only go out when the coil pickup triggers an ignition, e.g. when turning the starter it should flicker.

 

 

I know it can get frustrating to search for an electrical problem when you don't have the routine, especially when the stock wiring has been tampered with, but with a structured approach you actually save time and still make sure that nothing is overlooked. Thats the reason for my somewhat lengthy replies

 

Now you should focus on the voltage supply and the correct ground connection to the E12-80 module, as described in my last post. If you can ensure that you have +12 Volt on coil (+) and E12-80 terminal 'B' while ignition is on and on starting, then there is a high chance that the ignition will work as expected.

Edited March 14, 2010 by vantage

[MONGO510]

Interesting thread.

Edited March 14, 2010 by MONGO510

[Mikez31ss]

You shouldn't need to go back to points, your pickup coil is ok and it's unlikely that both the HEI module and the E12-80 module are defective, so it must be something basic (e.g. easy to fix) in the wiring The two charts i have posted should help finding the wiring issue, as the PO seems to have messed with the stock wiring.

 

1. I was referring to Johns wiring chart, where the condenser wire connects to coil (-), and is then repurposed to connect to terminal 'C' on the E12-80, your setup seems to have been modified though. Thanks for the diagram but i have to confess that i still dont grasp what has been changed on your stock wiring.

 

2. If the green/white wire supplies +12V in ignition and start position (check this with your test light), then that is sufficient for the test. The scope is to rule out the tachometer wiring as a possible problem.

Low priority, get back to this when you did the test in the last paragraph was positive

 

Correct, if you can't measure +12V between coil (+) and (-) while the key is in ignition or start position, then the coil won't fire. The reason for this is most probably the missing +12V and ground supply to the coil and/or the E12-80 module.

As a simple yet effective test i recommend to connect a 12V bulb (a standard 21W car bulb works nicely, or you use your test light). The bulb should be on in the ignition or start position, and only go out when the coil pickup triggers an ignition, e.g. when turning the starter it should flicker.

 

 

I know it can get frustrating to search for an electrical problem when you don't have the routine, especially when the stock wiring has been tampered with, but with a structured approach you actually save time and still make sure that nothing is overlooked. Thats the reason for my somewhat lengthy replies

 

Now you should focus on the voltage supply and the correct ground connection to the E12-80 module, as described in my last post. If you can ensure that you have +12 Volt on coil (+) and E12-80 terminal 'B' while ignition is on and on starting, then there is a high chance that the ignition will work as expected.

Ok I've still got the HEI module wired in. I ran a ground wire for "G" and got 9v across the coil terminals. The car wouldn't start. The coil did get very hot to touch though.

You mentioned the green/white wire again. There is no power running through my green/white wire or my short black/white wire. The writeups suggest that there is power to one of those wires. I assumed it was the short black/white wire. In any case neither have power in my car. I've tried bridging them and it makes no difference but since they aren't in my circuit I suppose that makes sense.

Whichever one is supposed to have power, does it only have power when the starter is engaged? I'll hook up a test light to them tomorrow and see what happens when the starter is engaged.

Since I'm not using a ballast resistor I'm not sure why a start circuit and a run circuit would be necessary.

Anyway it would look like this:

[vantage]

Ok I've still got the HEI module wired in. I ran a ground wire for "G" and got 9v across the coil terminals. The car wouldn't start. The coil did get very hot to touch though.

You mentioned the green/white wire again. There is no power running through my green/white wire or my short black/white wire. The writeups suggest that there is power to one of those wires. I assumed it was the short black/white wire. In any case neither have power in my car. I've tried bridging them and it makes no difference but since they aren't in my circuit I suppose that makes sense.

Whichever one is supposed to have power, does it only have power when the starter is engaged? I'll hook up a test light to them tomorrow and see what happens when the starter is engaged.

Since I'm not using a ballast resistor I'm not sure why a start circuit and a run circuit would be necessary.

 

You ran ground to 'C' (not 'G')? Please don't, thats the job of the HEI/E12-80 module

 

Ignore the black/white and green/white wire coming from the ignition key as your factory wiring has been modified.

Your HEI terminal 'B' must be wired to coil (+) & black/white in your drawing above. Then check the following:

 

- Test if you now have +12V at HEI terminal 'B' when the ignition is on and when starting

 

If you can ensure that you have +12 Volt on coil (+) and HEI terminal 'B' while ignition is on and on starting, then there is a high chance that the ignition will work as expected. Don't forget that the HEI module needs a good ground connection to work.

[Mikez31ss]

You ran ground to 'C' (not 'G')? Please don't, thats the job of the HEI/E12-80 module

 

Ignore the black/white and green/white wire coming from the ignition key as your factory wiring has been modified.

Your HEI terminal 'B' must be wired to coil (+) & black/white in your drawing above. Then check the following:

 

- Test if you now have +12V at HEI terminal 'B' when the ignition is on and when starting

 

If you can ensure that you have +12 Volt on coil (+) and HEI terminal 'B' while ignition is on and on starting, then there is a high chance that the ignition will work as expected. Don't forget that the HEI module needs a good ground connection to work.

Ok now you're telling me to ignore the white/green and black/white? I'm more confused.

The way you're telling me to wire the module is exactly how I had it wired originally. Here's the diagram from my first post:

[nosebleedZ]

Mike,

 

I feel for you bud, nothing like electro-gremlins to ruin your fun. You'll love the electronic when you get it workin'! Since I'm on the outside looking in, let me pose a few questions:

 

1)Have you cleaned the base of the electronic dizzy & the timing cover with a scothbrite pad to remove old oil residue & oxidation?

2)Is the coil you are using an original points system ignition coil, or one for the electronic dizzy?

3)Have you tried a different coil? Checking primary coil winding resistance is not the same thing as secondary high voltage output.

4)Is the HEI module mounted on a separate piece of aluminum with dielectric grease in between, or is E1280 mounting surface cleaned & greased?

5)Vantage is correct with pickup coil resistance looking OK, but a brand spankin' new one can be had at the 'Zone for $13?

6)Are you certain that the ignition switch is making the internal connection between START & RUN?

7)Where the G/W & B/W wires from the ignition switch connect to the module B+, are they the same voltage or not? In START position? In RUN/CRANK position?

8)When you removed the pickup coil & reinstalled the reluctor magnat, did you reset the air gap correctly? Like setting points gap on electro-dizzy.

9)Based on a Haynes/ Chilton/ Datsun FSM, is the air gap too WIDE?

10) Does the tach bounce slightly when you crank the engine, with everything assembled? Ie. Cap, wires to plugs,etc.?

 

Hope this helps!

[vantage]

Ok now you're telling me to ignore the white/green and black/white? I'm more confused.

The way you're telling me to wire the module is exactly how I had it wired originally. Here's the diagram from my first post:

 

You should ignore w/g and b/w as due to the PO's modification those do not supply the necessary +12V to the ignition system.

 

The diagram is correct, have you been able to do the tests from my last post? (Test if you now have +12V at HEI terminal 'B' when the ignition is on and when starting)

[Mikez31ss]

That's a lot of questions so for clarity I'm going to answer within your quote.

Mike,

 

I feel for you bud, nothing like electro-gremlins to ruin your fun. You'll love the electronic when you get it workin'! Since I'm on the outside looking in, let me pose a few questions:

 

1)Have you cleaned the base of the electronic dizzy & the timing cover with a scothbrite pad to remove old oil residue & oxidation?

 

I had to clean the timing cover to install a new gasket. The dizzy is rebuilt so it was already clean.

 

2)Is the coil you are using an original points system ignition coil, or one for the electronic dizzy?

 

The coil is new, MSD Blaster 2.

 

3)Have you tried a different coil? Checking primary coil winding resistance is not the same thing as secondary high voltage output.

 

I tried the original coil.

 

4)Is the HEI module mounted on a separate piece of aluminum with dielectric grease in between, or is E1280 mounting surface cleaned & greased?

 

Yes to both. I used the packet of heatsink greases that came with the HEI module.

 

5)Vantage is correct with pickup coil resistance looking OK, but a brand spankin' new one can be had at the 'Zone for $13?

 

I have a new one in there now.

 

6)Are you certain that the ignition switch is making the internal connection between START & RUN?

 

No.

 

7)Where the G/W & B/W wires from the ignition switch connect to the module B+, are they the same voltage or not? In START position? In RUN/CRANK position?

 

Yes the same voltage...0

 

8)When you removed the pickup coil & reinstalled the reluctor magnat, did you reset the air gap correctly? Like setting points gap on electro-dizzy.

 

No, I'll have to check that.

 

9)Based on a Haynes/ Chilton/ Datsun FSM, is the air gap too WIDE?

 

Same as question 8. I'll look at the Haynes manual for the adjustment instructions.

 

10) Does the tach bounce slightly when you crank the engine, with everything assembled? Ie. Cap, wires to plugs,etc.?

 

The tach has never worked.

 

Hope this helps!

 

Me too but I appreciate it either way.