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Roll cage for 280z


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I'm no expert but I can't see why it wouldn't. The interiors are just not that different. Let me know if it doesn't though, because I need a rollbar for my 240.

 

S&W already sells one for the 240. All you have to do is order it. Mine was $279.00 shipped for a 8 Point.

 

Thanks for at least replying.

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Yes, it will fit, they are the same car basically. You might have to do some modifications. Its cheap, its bolt in? If you flip I almost promise it does you no good. I don't think it was posted on here but a mustang with a bolt in cage flipped. The cage punched through the floor doing absolutely no good. Luckily the two people in the mustang came out unharmed. Me, not a fan of bolt in roll cages. Weld them in, do them right, do it once and live when you crash. Do it wrong the first time and you might not have a chance to do it again.

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Yes, it will fit, they are the same car basically. You might have to do some modifications. Its cheap, its bolt in? If you flip I almost promise it does you no good. I don't think it was posted on here but a mustang with a bolt in cage flipped. The cage punched through the floor doing absolutely no good. Luckily the two people in the mustang came out unharmed. Me, not a fan of bolt in roll cages. Weld them in, do them right, do it once and live when you crash. Do it wrong the first time and you might not have a chance to do it again.

 

That Mustang bolt-in roll bar install was flawed. They left out two plates because it was "too difficult" to get them installed. A properly designed and installed bolt-in cage will generally work as designed and have been tested in wrecks for decades. Many, many of the SCCA SSB/SSC cars run bolt-in cages and they handle roll overs and big wrecks just fine.

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That Mustang bolt-in roll bar install was flawed. They left out two plates because it was "too difficult" to get them installed. A properly designed and installed bolt-in cage will generally work as designed and have been tested in wrecks for decades. Many, many of the SCCA SSB/SSC cars run bolt-in cages and they handle roll overs and big wrecks just fine.

 

I won't argue with you because you know more about what your talking about than I do. I guess if you do it right then. I just have never been a fan of bolt in cages/bars. They seem cheap and sketchy to me. I don't understand how you skimp on safety because its "To hard" or "to Difficult". If it means your life, and saving it, nothing is to hard. Well, maybe dodging a bullet.

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I won't argue with you because you know more about what your talking about than I do. I guess if you do it right then. I just have never been a fan of bolt in cages/bars. They seem cheap and sketchy to me. I don't understand how you skimp on safety because its "To hard" or "to Difficult". If it means your life, and saving it, nothing is to hard. Well, maybe dodging a bullet.

 

Safety decisions are rarely made in a vacuum. Cost, time, likely-hood of accident (always underestimated), etc. all come into the decision process. People who have never raced competitively tend to place more emphasis on cost. People who have raced competitively and those who have been in serious wrecks place a far greater emphasis on likely-hood. As I've told many who have asked, "Do you want a roll cage that will just pass tech or do you want one that will save your life in a worst case wreck? There's a price difference and that's only a decision you can make."

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Yes, it will fit, they are the same car basically. You might have to do some modifications. Its cheap, its bolt in? If you flip I almost promise it does you no good. I don't think it was posted on here but a mustang with a bolt in cage flipped. The cage punched through the floor doing absolutely no good. Luckily the two people in the mustang came out unharmed. Me, not a fan of bolt in roll cages. Weld them in, do them right, do it once and live when you crash. Do it wrong the first time and you might not have a chance to do it again.

 

It is a weld in, and if not, it will be. I guess the above story just goes to show you that not any monkey can work on a car and do it right. Thank for anwering.

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So far so good on the fit. I had to stretch out the main hoop a bit to get it closer to the outer channels and out of the seat belt boxes. The rear bars will angle slightly to get good metal next the spare tire well. The front bars are a little (lot) tight on the doors and me. I going to shorten them up a little to lower the front so I can get in and out of the car. I will get some pics as I go.

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So far so good on the fit. I had to stretch out the main hoop a bit to get it closer to the outer channels and out of the seat belt boxes. The rear bars will angle slightly to get good metal next the spare tire well. The front bars are a little (lot) tight on the doors and me. I going to shorten them up a little to lower the front so I can get in and out of the car. I will get some pics as I go.

 

Most door bars are tight. Sitting in my Z I am already basically on the door and I am small. I don't think having door panels is an option if you have a cage. I wouldn't bother so I could tuck them tight to the door.

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thats really cheap for a cage, most shops quoted me at $500 for a 6 point SCCA/IMSA approved cage and with two contacts on the passenger and driver floorpans, and then the 4 others are in the back with the cross bars in the hatch area.

 

can anyone confirm that $500 is reasonable, (sorry to threadjack ;) )

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Most door bars are tight. Sitting in my Z I am already basically on the door and I am small. I don't think having door panels is an option if you have a cage. I wouldn't bother so I could tuck them tight to the door.

 

 

I may take the armrest off for the addional clearance. But the panels are going to stay on if at all possible.

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thats really cheap for a cage, most shops quoted me at $500 for a 6 point SCCA/IMSA approved cage and with two contacts on the passenger and driver floorpans, and then the 4 others are in the back with the cross bars in the hatch area.

 

can anyone confirm that $500 is reasonable, (sorry to threadjack ;) )

 

Welding is expensive, sounds reasonable to me. If it is SCCA/IMSA approved for sure. I bet you will be amazed at how it changes the way the car handles too.

 

Sounds like you've got a plan, I wish you luck to keeping your door panels!

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Welding is expensive, sounds reasonable to me. If it is SCCA/IMSA approved for sure. I bet you will be amazed at how it changes the way the car handles too.

 

Sounds like you've got a plan, I wish you luck to keeping your door panels!

 

When I do the padding I could just make more padding on the cage where the armrests go lol, then If I really had to brace... or hold onto something..

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Lucky me, I have a welder,cut saw, and a large hammer. It will fit when I am done. Well except for the C3 headers, those just do not fit. As for driving it. I drove it from my friends house to mine and pulled the engine. I think the car is going to be a lot of fun.

 

Is there any sub connectors and are they really needed?

 

Thanks

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