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what kind of welding used


v8dats

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i was wondering what kind of welding you guys are using with your framerails and flooboards. any bad experinces with any?what does the framerail attach to at the rear of the car?do i make flooboards first if too rusty to weld?i saw pete's page but i cant see where it ties at the rear of the frame rail. pete? mike? anyone. thankz!! pics?

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I cut out the old floorboards and the old rails (which end just behind the driver's seat). Then I welded in the floors. Then the new frame rails were welded to the floors,rear subframe and front subframe. ALOT of welding.

Hope that answers your question.

Tim

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Guest Anonymous

MIG welding is perferred. Gasless is messy and not nearly as good of a weld. The extra gas option is about $100 and is worth it. Obviously TIG is the best, but we use MIG in the industry most.

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Guest Locutus

Actually to add gas it is closer to and extra 200 bucks. You have to by the regulator and then buy a tank too(unless you happen to have one laying around). My bottle was $122 full, I got liquid CO2 but I think I am going to switch to a CO2/Argon mix. It was more expensive so thats why I went with all C02. There are smaller ones you can get but you don't want to run out when you are in your groove. I was told by a friend that he had to stop twice in one day to get the smaller bottle filled. I have welded two spirited days on my car, as well as numerous other projects, and my bottle is still half full. Food for thought.

 

Mike

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My Lincoln SP125 mig, including everything except the tank was on sale delivered to my door for $540. It is a gas and I use 75/25 argon - C02 MIX wih all my welding. Very easy to use and I weld all my control arms with it, as well as my cage and my floorpans.

 

Mike Kelly

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yeah i was hoping that the mig was the way to go cause i'm not not very good with the arc.my father has a mig welding with the argon mixture and it works great on all kinds of metals.so its ok to weld the rails with the mig right?thank you all for replying.

juan

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Sorry, been away from here for a week or so.

 

I use MIG as well, 110V Daytona MiniMig (not great, but it works), .023" wire, 75/25 Argon/CO2.

 

The subframe connectors are notched on the end (see the drawing). This end is slid onto the unibody bracing that the diff fron crossmember bolts to.

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I supported my car with jack stands and long 4x4's across the lenght of the car. I cut one side out and made the floor and rails for both. side was tack welded in and than the other. Off the car went to the frame shop and we pulled the car a smidge past dead on and welded the car before removing it from the frame machine. The reason for this is to preload the floor and frame slightly for stiffness and to resist "bounce back" when the tension was released from the machine. I have some photo's in my link at the bottom. The car is incredibly tight and steers even better. This is just the way I did mine and you will have to figure out what is best for you. I knew the guys at the frame shop so I came in on a sunday and bribed them with, of all things, BEER!!! What a surprise EH?

LOL!!! twak.gif

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