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putting p90head on a 75 280z Block


280zbeeT

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Was not calling any body names. Funny, all the donating members like to gang up together now? "Im gonna go get Tony D" How cute.

 

Ive been reading, and searching for about 2 weeks now on this subject it got closer and closer to the do date of buying the block, and that was yesterday and I got desperate for information which I needed for that reason I turned to this forum. And it seemed, and felt that just because yes I dont know the internals of a engine from the back of my hand that "Oh hes new, He didnt build this car, no more help!" Well? big deal. So what becuase I am asking a question about a new engine setup means I cant build and know what to put on a car? Haha Im learning more and more every day. If people dont want to help they dont need to. Im 21, Ya I dont have 5 10 or 20 years experience. Read my post again, I didnt say discrimination needs to be ended, what did I say? oh Over Minor Things.

 

Never mind Thats all going to go nowhere.

 

Anyways Im not going to argue if you dont want to help or dont agree DONT post. I got my engine, I know exactly what I need. Listen, if you dont have **** to say or want to help dont post at all Simple. Thank you

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There are stickies in the top of the forum here. Read them. EVERY ONE OF YOUR QUESTIONS IS ANSWERED THERE.

 

That's what everyone has told you, and that's all the information you're going to get with this kind of attitude. I'm 22. I have rebuilt my Z from the ground up and the first thing I did when i came to this site was spend about a week reading every thread that was in the Nissan L6 forum. Did I need to? No, there was a lot of chaff in there. Did it tell me everything I wanted to know about the Nissan L28? Yeah, pretty much. I started on this site when I was 19. I managed to read the rules and follow them, and usually don't get slammed too hard about dumb questions, I just get told to search like everyone else here. Just do it.

 

Age is no excuse. Newness level is no excuse. You were supposed to read the forum rules when you joined up. You had to wait a minimum of 30 seconds in order to even get the button to agree to join.

 

Rule #2: Being as this forum is an extreme performance forum, it is expected that members already have a basic understanding of their cars and have some mechanical ability, own some form of a service manual such as a Haynes manual and exercise the search function exhaustively before asking basic questions.

 

This used to be the Forum Rule #2. That rule now reads:

 

2. Please use the search function before you do anything else. The search button can be found at the top of the page. Use several keywords if you don't find what you need right off the bat. Remember: Just about every possible topic and problem has been posted and answered, in most cases several times. The Members on this board are very helpful and a great crowd of Z enthusiasts, but answering the same questions over and over again gets old.

 

Yeah, the new search feature isn't as good as the old one. But it still works.

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Anyways Im not going to argue if you dont want to help or dont agree DONT post. I got my engine, I know exactly what I need. Listen, if you dont have **** to say or want to help dont post at all Simple. Thank you

 

 

Odd when did this become your forum?

 

I did not know anyone could make up their rules as they see fit...

 

Their are answers to specific questions. Without specifics it would be like peeing into the wind. You are closer to answers then us because it is YOUR car. We don't know what the privious owner did, heck you don't.

 

We also understand fragile egos of the youth today. Your mention of "discrimination" underscores this point. You may not understand this because it is a protective element to your "self", so if you acknowledged it, you could become frightened.

 

Your questions are all over. Your specifics are questionable even by you. You think their is a magic wand like you've seen in school, nope. It is real life on hybridz.

 

If you are not up to it, go somewhere where you know more then them and self inflate.

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Ive broken my car down to pieces and rebuilt it too?

Yes, In the threads I post, if you dont want to help or have anything positive to say dont post I dont care to argue with people over the internet if I hurt your feelings dont post in my threads? Nothing to do with making my own rules.

 

Ive read as much as I could in two weeks to still not find the answer I needed specific to my question. Plain an simple. Nothing to do with being unwilling or being lazy. I didnt need any help until I got a n42 block, Btw, I do know what the previous ownder did to the L28ET setup, the NA engine I bought this week is the 2nd owner,he got it from someone else so I dont know what He did to it no, but I took it apart last night and figured everything out.

 

I know damn well my age is not an excuse stop bringing that up. Ive been all around Google and different forums and still didnt find an exact answer all I could find were NA setups not Turbo setup's using this head and block. Ive only worked on a L28ET Im new to using any other block or engine setup, including parts needed for the specific transformation to my engine so no I dont have a manual for it.

 

Anyways, Thanks for the advice.

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Useful spoon information coming in for a landing:

 

The real fix for the detonation is to dump the stock EFI all together and move to something with easy to program fuel AND timing control, like megasquirt. What people have gotten out of the stock system is impressive, to say the least, but there are easier ways to make it all work at most people's budget these days.

 

 

It really should be noted somewhere in big bold letters when you sign up to this site that we're a community of THINKERS, not just repeaters like most forums. I'm not sure how else to phrase that though and it DOES come across as demeaning.

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Oh well.

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I think thats what my haltech e11 is doing.. also, Im pretty sure haltech e11 can control retarding the timing under boost? but Im not sure.. IM HORRIBLE with the haltech I need more training for that..

 

 

http://force-efi.com/e11.htm

http://www.hitman.hm/e11v2.html <----------- THIS is the one I have

the above is the link of some of the features of my haltech

Edited by 280zbeeT
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If you''re using the stock distributor it's not going to be all that accurate though. You want to convert to something like EDIS. This requires the addition of a trigger wheel (you're rebuilding, perfect time to add one), replacement of a crappy coil with coil packs, and removed of the dizzy. The mechanical side isn't so difficult, but you'll want to find other haltech owners that have done it to find out how to set it up correctly.

 

It'll give you infinitely more control over timing and much MUCH more accuracy. You'll also have much stronger spark with the coil packs.

 

And do you have a wideband? I'd get one if you don't. Otherwise tuning is useless.

 

Remember, if you're pushing more fuel than 12:1 under boost and you've got detonation problems than you NEED to look at your timing. You want to run as much timing as you can, but not as the expense of a good fuel mixture (in most cases). I'd also recommend running race gas while you're unsure of the tune when you get it all rebuilt. Don't go driving around a time bomb because you want to drive it more than get it tuned right. Rebuilding engines gets old after a while.

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Yea I have a Zeitronix, it has a egt sensor and arf, too.. I dont have a stock distributer tho. but I still have my stock coil, so I was going to get a msd blaster 3 coil.. ya the tuning is what Im worrying about..But since the block has dished pistons, that mean my compression will still be the same as running my old f54 block with my p90head right?and if my tuning is off.. as long as Im not boosting I should be fine.. I hope.

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Was not calling any body names. Funny, all the donating members like to gang up together now? "Im gonna go get Tony D" How cute.

 

Ive been reading, and searching for about 2 weeks now on this subject it got closer and closer to the do date of buying the block, and that was yesterday and I got desperate for information which I needed for that reason I turned to this forum. And it seemed, and felt that just because yes I dont know the internals of a engine from the back of my hand that "Oh hes new, He didnt build this car, no more help!" Well? big deal. So what becuase I am asking a question about a new engine setup means I cant build and know what to put on a car? Haha Im learning more and more every day. If people dont want to help they dont need to. Im 21, Ya I dont have 5 10 or 20 years experience. Read my post again, I didnt say discrimination needs to be ended, what did I say? oh Over Minor Things.

 

Never mind Thats all going to go nowhere.

 

Anyways Im not going to argue if you dont want to help or dont agree DONT post. I got my engine, I know exactly what I need. Listen, if you dont have **** to say or want to help dont post at all Simple. Thank you

 

 

wow you really just dont get it.

 

 

 

but in some cases SLIGHT DOMES.

 

 

Iv got a set of those :lol:

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Yea I have a Zeitronix, it has a egt sensor and arf, too.. I dont have a stock distributer tho. but I still have my stock coil, so I was going to get a msd blaster 3 coil.. ya the tuning is what Im worrying about..But since the block has dished pistons, that mean my compression will still be the same as running my old f54 block with my p90head right?and if my tuning is off.. as long as Im not boosting I should be fine.. I hope.

 

But do you have A distributor at all? That's what we want to ditch.

 

An EDIS 6 coil pack should look like this

edis6coilpack.jpg

 

 

That's what you want. Shouldn't be too hard to install wiring wise if you know your EFI. Lookup in some haltech forums for people who've done the EDIS conversion. The only real complicated parts is fabbing up the crank sensor, and then figuring out how to set up the haltech for EDIS (might be easy, but I've never used haltech).

 

The dish pistons should be hard to blow up as long as you keep the boost mild. Even with flat tops you'd have to have something majorly wrong (which you might have, who knows) in order to blow it up. There are lots of guys that have put impressive numbers down with the flat tops, as they provide a bit more quench to make up for the bump in compression, but due to the slightly smaller chamber they don't need as much timing (but probably only a few degrees).

 

I actually want to move to flat tops if I ever rebuilt my turbo motor.

Edited by Gollum
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Thank you so much for the help gollum I so very much appreciate it! those are quiet expensive tho, Ill post an add see if anyone can sell me one.. is there a specific model I need to get or just one for the type of engine I need? didnt know if they are universal or not.. anyways I found this, the BOOST TIMING MASTER http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD-Ignition/121/8665/10002/-1 but it says its for a dodge viper, I dont understand why it wouldn't be able to work on my car, (I understand made for a dodge viper) but what makes it FOR a dodge viper?? is it already preset or something?

 

 

Mmm, Also I just ordered the 8910 tach adapter for my l28ET engine.. I have the msd6, the haltech ellv2, and the zetronics wideband all for tuning.. Im going to find out if the haltech e11v2 allows me to do timing retarding during boost would you have any idea about that? or would anybody?

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The thing that will help you most in your situation right now is to get plugged in with people in your area that actually know something. People that can help you learn to tune, and double check your work to make sure things are all hooked up right.

 

Example: Your haltech is capable of controlling spark, but there's no way for us here over the internet to tell if it's actually hooked up to do so, nor can we tell if your settings are optimized for your setup. (dwell, trim, and the likes).

 

There's only so much we can teach you over the internet. We can only really show you the path to learning more. And remember, experience almost always equals more than information gleamed from books, let alone the internet.

 

I guess I'm going to retract my previous statement. Don't worry about EDIS right this second unless you want to take the time to do it well. If you just want the car drivable again asap, then first focus on getting what you already have to work right. Haltech should be able to control the stock dizzy well enough for 300 wheel HP and be perfectly streetable. Learn how to datalog and how to read your datalog effectively to be able to tune your car. Read books on EFI tuning, and find people that know their stuff. Don't get discourages easily, otherwise after a few "no"s you'll miss the "yes" out there wanting to help.

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Yea sounds good! the car was tuned when I had the f54 block in there, but I had no msd, and was running 91 octane, Im thinking to move up to 93 octane since Im going to have this n42 block.. I have plugging up my zetronics data logger to my laptop and trying to get it logging and such. As far as the haltech Im not messing with that, just trying to read as much as I can since Im new to it I dont want to screw up my tuning.. Im kinda understand that once I put this n42 block in I need to get it tuned again? Especially if it has flat tops.. the Only guy I know with a 280z is only knowledagble with street tunes, not haltech so thats the issue.. but I guess were going to have tune my car with my wide band until I can get the haltech tuned, and just keep my boost at 10lbs... I have been reading about the n EDIS 6 coil packs, they are quite expensive tho! I have a haltech book manual around here actually..

 

Thank you gollum.

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Good ol' 1 Fast Z. Now there's a car to drool over. More work in that head than most people have in their entire cars.

 

Anyways. Yea, $60 is about right if you source it all yourself instead of getting a kit. But consider this, most aftermarket distributors go for over $100 new. Most JDM Honda Dizzy's go for well over $100 and beyond $200 for some. Even $100 for a whole new system that has far more range and control than any dizzy is a wise investment. There's also other options if you want to skip EDIS and go with a different distributor-less ignition setup.

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So, I we pulled my engine yesterday, starting the build for the n42 block.

Found out today, the NA block is .30bored with flat top pistons, the pistons are CLEAN, not even black or anything, brand new rebuilt!, also have a NA cam.. So now running with the 550c injectors and walbrow fuel pump, Im gonna use my MSD 6a, instead of getting the LS! coil packs, and the haltech e11v2, Im gonna need a massive tune now? going from a dished standard size pistons on a n42 block to a .30 bored flat top pistons aren't I? And also, whats the same amount of boost to use prolly between 5 - 10 with the setup until I run boost? or is 10 even to much? Im also gonna try to run 93 octant insetad of 91.Any other safety precautions?? Ive never ran flat tops with turbo setup.anyone have good base mapt to start with?

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