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L-Series annihilation !!!


2eighTZ4me

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77 200SX former GT-3 winning car (1978 and 1980) - SCCA race at Road Atlanta a couple Sunday's ago. Coming out of turn 7 onto the back straight - 6500rpm in 3rd - about to shift to 4th. 180 degree water and oil temp, 70psi oil pressure - just scanned gauges. And all hell breaks loose......1.jpg

 

 

OK - looks like a decent hole through the side of the block. It blew the starter (brand new gear reduction unit I might add) into about 20 or so pieces.

 

We found what broke.........

rod.jpg

 

What we DIDN'T see was underneath the header and carbs......

 

bad.jpg

 

Took a hunk out of the cylinder sleeve.....

 

cyl1.jpg

 

And the other side of the cylinder bore.

 

cyl2.jpg

 

That - my friends - is a BAD / Expensive day at the track. He did this about 2 hours after I lunched my turbo. Datsuns did not fare well at the SCCA........

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Thank you for the inspiration. Now whenever I feel like I am having a bad car day, I'll just remember that there are those out there that have had worse. :) Lunching a turbo is pittance compared to that carnage. The shaft between the compressor and exhaust wheels broke on my turbo at 15 psi. I had a smoke screen behind me that would have hidden a Panzer battlion.

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Stock block - but FAR from stock internals. All forged goodies from back in the day. KTM - that's what happened to my turbo earlier in the day. Nothing audible at all - the cabin just started filling up with smoke and when I looked in my rearview - it was a white cloud as far as the eye could see. But yes - my carnage was nothing compared to his - although the funny thing - he'll probably get out of it cheaper than I will. He has boxes of spare parts lying around that can be used. Stock L20B rods, a couple extra pistons etc. The crank and head are completely undamaged. He's already sourced a (free) block from a friend, so he's out a bit of machine work and a couple gaskets/seals. I am taking my turbo off tonight.....we'll see what "lies beneath"....

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I will take back the cost statement - it completely WASTED his oil pan - looks like a circular saw went straight through it - straight out of a horror movie! There are very few of those pans around, and he'll be hard pressed to find one. He called Wolf Creek this morning - haven't heard back whether he was successful or not.

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So the forged rod broke? Any thoughts on why? Did something else go wrong that caused this? We usually talk about stock L engine bottom ends as being nearly indestructible yet this engine, with upgraded forged internals broke a rod? I'm curious and confused.

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Best we can figure is that "something" happened in the top end (water passage broke) and caused hydrostatic lock in the #3 cyl. The wrist pin broke in TWO!!! and caused the rod to shift inside the bore at 65000rpm. The rod snapped at the thinnest point and blew to holy hell the rest of the motor. (Lobbest thou thy Holy Hand Grenade - for you Monty Python fans) Can't find any empirical evidence as to exactly what caused the failure though. It's merely speculation. It smashed through the water jackets in the block and even wrapped the metal mesh in the PCV area of the block around the rod. There were no fluids to speak of in the motor once we got it out and apart a week later. So yes - this is one of those "Unsolved Mysteries". The piston broke the skirts on both sides, apparently the rod snapped early on (assuming the wrist pin went first - thinking a Spiro lock came loose too) and did the rest of the damage while descending from 6500rpm to naught - in a rather noisy fashion.....

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Wow..I am at a loss for words...my goodness. Makes me realize that no matter how well you build them, no expense spared, forged this or that, attention to detail something can let go and the mechanical version of the Texas Chain Saw Massacre will occur! Yikes..if that happened to my motor...I would give up cars and take up a new hobby like knitting or cake baking.

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Yikes..if that happened to my motor...I would give up cars and take up a new hobby like knitting or cake baking.

I'm trying to imagine Yasin sitting in a rocking chair with knitting needles ... and it's not working for me!!! :)

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The wrist pin broke in TWO!!! and caused the rod to shift inside the bore at 65000rpm.

 

Piston pin most likely seized on the rod small end or in the piston. Inspect it carefully. The damage in the pictures is typical for that kind of failure and an undamaged rod big end and undamaged crank also points in that direction. A hyrolock at speed is rare - the coolant generally vaporizes too quickly to fill the combustion chamber and the coolant can just as easily be pushed back out the hole it came in.

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The wrist pin is mashed up inside the inner portion of the piston. It didn't break completely, so extrication thereof will require a scaled down version of the "jaws of life". I'll have to get more pics of that though - the ones I have are fuzzy and illegible.

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The wrist pin is mashed up inside the inner portion of the piston. It didn't break completely, so extrication thereof will require a scaled down version of the "jaws of life". I'll have to get more pics of that though - the ones I have are fuzzy and illegible.

 

Sometimes you can see where the pin turned blue due to heat. That's a big indicator that it seized.

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