5thgenluder Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 The dash as you said was a write off. I am restructuring and resurfacing it. So far I have rebuilt the majority of what was wrong with it. The fiberglass has turned out much rougher than I hoped but I can just put a thin coat of resin on it to smooth it out. Then sand it down. I plan on doing a light texture and paint it black. Suede would be amazing unfortunately way above my skill level and out of my price range. If my dash doesn't turn out the way I want perhaps I'll pm you about one of yours. From what I've seen most good dashes get well over $700. I've got $140 in this repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wedge Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 Dont give up, if you have experience with fiberglass it should be only a matter of time before you get a great look. Just wondering why you didnt go with a full dash cap they dont look that bad IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zdan Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 im not trying to doscourage you, but resin is the "glue" that holds the glass together and is a absolute PITA to sand. If you want to make smooth fiberglass parts the best would be to smooth out your dash and then make a mold, using gelcoat. then make a "cap" using gelcoat as well. Then it would be UV resistant and you woudl have a nice smooth surface. But intergrated that into the stock dash would be difficult. You can see where Im going with this. Really if youre trying to just smooth out the dash, id use bondo... although I dont know how that would stick to the vinyl dash surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted April 16, 2011 Author Share Posted April 16, 2011 Wedge. I work in car audio so I do have experience with fiberglass. I know it's a few hours of sanding away from looking exactly how I want. 240zdan. I'm trying to avoid bondo. I fear that it won't flex and would just flake off or crack. I don't have the means to make an entire dash mould. One of my installers did this for a living before working here and we are doing this project together so I'm following his lead on this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 n1 water pump, greddy timing belt and new idler puller and timing pulley arrived today. ACT clutch on the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 So its been a while since Ive updated the price list. Im gonna try to clean it up by compiling an entire list. Chemical stripper from home depot. 1 can about $8.00 rustoleum primer from home depot. 4ish cans $20.00 High heat grilll paint from home depot. 4ish cans $20.00 Rust encapsulator 1 gallon $130.00 Pre 1 gallon $50.00 3/8 tubing kit with cutter, bender, and flare. $87.00 cushion clamps. 2 packs $18.00 -6 tube nuts. 2 packs $6.00 -6 tube sleeves. 2 packs $4.00 -6 adapter fittings. qty 4 $12.00 Tap and die kit. $15.00 cutting oil $5.00 -6 to 3/8npt 90degree $10.0010' stainless braided hose. $40.00 qty 7 an straight hose ends $35.00 qty 4 an 90degree hose ends. $42.00 JEGS 40 micron inline filter $30.00 Carter fuel pump. $70.00 Bosch 044 fuel pump. $180.00 Bosch inlet adapter. $4.00 Bosch outlet adapter. $5.00 PRC radiator - $265.00 spal fan - $150.00 Custom shroud. - $100.00 bracket materials - already had them. Ace hardware weather stripping - $5.00 Ezwiring 21 circuit harness - $185.00 Solder heat shrink and loom - $30.00 welding shut plugs $? friend did it ( thanks Doug.) Eastwood kit $50.00 Acetone $15.00 muratic acid $15.00 Surge tank. $100.00 Dynamat. $200.00 Optional and plenty left for the lid. Alluminum for brackets. $20.00 Total until now $1916.00 ( To be updated in next post.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 Let me start by saying Ive reread my post and I am sorry about the big pics. The first few pages take forever to load. Maybe when Im finished Ill clean it all up. I tried to edit and resize but it will not let me. So usually I post a price list when parts get installed but Ive been compiling parts forever and Its about time I just updated what I have. I would also like to say I know that I didnt get the cheapest parts and stuff can be had cheaper or made. I wanted to get the parts that made the install the easiest with little to no fabrication. The following are from Mckinney Motorsports. http://mckinneymotorsports.com/prod_240+260+280Z+parts Rb25 motor mounts $475.00 intercooler kit. $850.00 Driveshaft. $425.00 exhaust. $550.00 Throttle cable and bracket. $129.00 downpipe. $290.00 Knockoff greddy intake manifold modified for 240z. $300.00 Total for Mckinney parts. $3019.00 Greddy Type Rz BOV http://www.nopi.com/dsp_partsvencar.php?vsubpc=345&vv=2246 Type RZ bov $247.00 Rb25 timing kit. http://www.z1motorsports.com/240sx/product_info.php?currency=USD&products_id=3813 Greddy Kevlar timing belt Rb tensioner pulley Rb idler pulley Rb timing belt tensioner spring N1 water pump Sold as a kit $356.00 Speedhut gauges. http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge_description-gauge_type-Kit-auto_number-851.htm Sold as a package with gps speedo, Tacho, oil press, fuel level, voltage, and water temp. $836.00 Total so far. $6374.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share Posted May 2, 2011 Got some rims for free. Didnt mount them yet but put 1 next to the car. Please give your honest opinion. Im kinda up in the air as to if I like them or if they fit in with the look of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sugee_S30_Z Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Got some rims for free. Didnt mount them yet but put 1 next to the car. Please give your honest opinion. Im kinda up in the air as to if I like them or if they fit in with the look of the car. updates??? Its may 14 2011?? I want to do this rb swap to my z..Did you ever finish the project? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted May 15, 2011 Author Share Posted May 15, 2011 slowly working on it. I spent a couple hours finishing wiring the car. I relocated the relays to under the dash. I have also been spending time refinishing the floor pans, trans tunnel and firewall. I have been peeling the old sound deadening off the car. wire wheeling and rust encapsulating the car. When any actual progress occurs I will let you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4.6StangRage Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 (edited) Hey man, fantastic build you got going! I have enjoyed reading your progress with your build and I am envious! Hey If you are still working on your dash I have an idea if you have not found a solution for it yet. There is a member on this forum that has a dash that is wrapped in some kind of fabric. I think it is leather and it looks amazing! I once considered throwing out my dash and building a custom fiberglass one until I came across this one. Well It may have been a different one but this is still really nice. Btw, how is your build going now? http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/hand_stitched_leather_dash_866252.0.html Edit: oops, my bad, I just realized that you posted this a week ago. When you get some progress let us know! Edited May 25, 2011 by 4.6StangRage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted May 26, 2011 Author Share Posted May 26, 2011 4.6 that is one of my all time favorite dash boards. I have drooled over the idea for a while. Unfortunately it is out of my current budget. I have been working on the car getting it ready. I have been tinkering with the wiring trying to get it all working. Im gonna need to update my wiring guide. I was having issues with the front parking lights coming on when I hit the brakes. I got the remainder of the original sound deadening off the floor pans. I wire wheeled them clean, rust encapsulated them, then put some dynamat down. I also used some fiberbondo to smooth the dash and then some resin as to smooth it even further. Im gonna post some pics of some of teh progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil_S30 Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 Subscribed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 what kind of resins are you using on the dash? time for mine sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted May 27, 2011 Author Share Posted May 27, 2011 Ill look at the resins when I go back to work on Saturday. Quick question. I have my fuel pump relays all wired up and and on my ezwiring harness there is a fuel pump wire. I have that wire set to open the gate on the relays. For some reason it has 12 volts when in the on position but it stops sending 12v when I turn the key to the start position. Is this going to be a problem? Wouldnt I need the pumps to be running when Im trying to turn over the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 i dont think mine run during cranking either... just a 3-5 sec prime... you dont wanna spin over a starter for real long anyway, typically.... i will try to remember to verify that for ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 Zt-r if you or anyone else can confirm that sure would make my life easier. I was kinda thinking that the pumps would prime and the system would be under pressure for the 1-3 seconds of crank. Ps I'm working on resin type for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 I called ezwiring and they said to connect the ign accessory and the ign starter together. I decided I didnt want to do that. I dont want my radio and guages and all my electronics on when cranking. I cut the fuel pump wire on the back of the fuse box and wired it to a wire that gets power in the on and start position. I wont get any fuel in acc but thats ok. Having a troubling time with the horns not working properly but no big deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linluv84 Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 Why not let the ECM control the fuel pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 I have both as a fail safe. The gate for the relay is only on in on and start and the ground for the relay shuts off the pump if the motor stops rotating from the ecu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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