Started Rustoelum Paintjob.

[goodoldjam]

Well decided to go the rustoleum route. Car is a old rattle can job from PO, with alot of bad bodywork. Got a jam done and working out some more of the ID areas.

Bodywork wise it hasn't been a $75 job, especially not in time.

 

Accidentally hit enter and posted this a little soon so I'll try and get up a picture of the door jam. It's Sunburst yellow, not sure how it's going to turn out. I'm using a roller and spray cans for those hard to reach areas.

So far it looks like it should come out OK for a rust bucket, much better than the faded orange peel rattle can that was on there.

 

Edited August 25, 2010 by goodoldjam

[75zcar]

Looks....

[Pharaohabq]

Looks....

 

Yeah...

 

 

If you've already got it torn down, why not put a real paint job on it? Even if you DIY with a harbor freight gun, it'll come out better than a spray can. At least you're painting it a lighter color which will hide a lot, but I doubt you're going to be happy for very long with it.

[goodoldjam]

Yeah...

 

 

If you've already got it torn down, why not put a real paint job on it? Even if you DIY with a harbor freight gun, it'll come out better than a spray can. At least you're painting it a lighter color which will hide a lot, but I doubt you're going to be happy for very long with it.

Well I considered a cheap Maaco job before I started to do body work, I've seen their work and it is not even better than what I have already done.

So I have a couple options, strip everything off and start fresh. That leaves X amount of bodywork and from what I've seen so far there could be alot of it.

It would of been helpful to take pictures of what i did before I primed on that third picture. The gas filler hole is actually part of a 9"x18" patch.

I just don't want to see how far the rabbit hole goes.

I do have a gun and could spray enamel, problem is i have no where to do it. If I didn't strip it all the way down, I don't think it would even last a couple years. I'm thinking maybe rustoleum will get a couple more years.

The beauty of this paint, is if I feel the need to redo a section it's cheap.

 

Next time I take off the paint off it will be to add fiberglass quarters.

 

I think this is a step up from going rattle can flat.

I'm working on the cowl right now and I'll post some high res pictures of it, even if bugs are swimming around in it.

I didn't opt for dark color, because it wouldn't hide anything like you said. Plus the car is already some form of faded yellow as seen in the pictures.

 

I just got to point where I realized my $2000 car is not going to be a good base for a engine, I've somehow invested more money into. So when I rip the car into 2 pieces I won't cry to much because I ruined my paint job.

Edited August 25, 2010 by goodoldjam

[72s30]

I've been doing the same thing on my '72. Came out pretty good. Started roller, then switched to an electric gun from HF. Much less labor intensive than the roller, and looks MILES better. I'll see if i can dig up a few pictures.

[240zBoy]

MORE PICS Looks like it will come out good man. Prep is the main factor

[goodoldjam]

It's not looking good with the roller, Tryed 50/50 and that's way to thin so then I went 25/75 and that's to thick.

Even with a ultra fine roller it still gets some streaks and has a extreme amount of orange peel. Luckily I haven't done anything major yet.

It may settle a little as it drys, but it's looking like alot of sanding.

Maybe I'll pick up a electric HF gun, Something throw away.

72s30 How did you thin it for the gun?

Edited August 26, 2010 by goodoldjam

[GOTHALOSISM]

I used a HF gun for when I did my primer, I liked the way it flowed and spayed. I need to resand it down and respray but that will be much later on.

[bobbyc]

i've used a $15 harbor freight gun for everything, primer to clear...it's worked perfect. it may not be the most efficient or have the best atomization...but i've sprayed metallics with no mottling and then cleared with the same gun....it was smooth enough i didn't even have to sand.

[Meph]

try my post here for some ideas

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/83073-how-to-paint-with-tremclad-the-right-way/page__p__786868__hl__%2Btremclad+%2Bright+%2Bway__fromsearch__1#entry786868

[slownrusty]

I am a huge advocate at doing it right once and once only. And from what I can tell, you are really heading down the wrong path. The feedback provided by other members with purchasing a Harbor Freight gun is the way to go. Spray paint in a can is not intended to paint parts of a car, let alone an entire car.

[280z4me2]

I just sprayed a quart of rustoleum gloss black on some furniture. I reduced it 50% and it sprayed beautifully! I just used acetone to reduce it. It layed out really smooth and even though it was reduced alot, it still had good coverage.

[Meph]

if you have the patience, you can make rustomilum look good no matter how its applied, i did 2 fenders for an old car fo mine with rattle cans, wetsanded and buffed it and it looked amazing, perfect finish. If you roll it on, the big disadvantage is that it will take a logn time to cure, maybe less if u use acetone or lacquer thinner to thin. It will also require sanding to get smooth.

 

It dosn't really matter for you apply the paint, i think i may have rolled on my base coat actually. Once its on there, you can wetsand it baby butt smooth and polish.

[goodoldjam]

I am a huge advocate at doing it right once and once only. And from what I can tell, you are really heading down the wrong path. The feedback provided by other members with purchasing a Harbor Freight gun is the way to go. Spray paint in a can is not intended to paint parts of a car, let alone an entire car.

I'm on board with that, I already have the HF gun ready to go.

I've been spending most my time on bodywork, It always seems easy until you start removing some paint.

I'm just trying to get enough parts ready to go. I can learn as I go on the places that won't be seen, then when I get to the outside I should have a good Idea of how to do it fairly efficiently. If I do a bad job, I can correct it just adds alot of time.

 

Kinda torn on reducing it, Mineral spirits make it slow drying. Maybe I'll pick up some acetone. I've also read that spraying the paint straight out of the can works well, if the HF gun can do that.

 

 

Thanks for the write up Meph, I'm thinking it's gonna help me out alot. I'm still stuck on step Zero at the moment. Not so much bodywork but welding.

Edited September 5, 2010 by goodoldjam

[goodoldjam]

Well got a couple things I learned about Rustoleum primers. Don't use the Non automotive primers, they take 48 hours to dry Difference being I believe that most their primers are oil based like the paint.

 

The automotive primers are sandable in 4 hours. Also don't spray buildable over sealer primer before the sealer fully cures, they look like the same thing apparently they are not. Been playing with the HF gun and it needs it mixed thin or it won't spray, Mineral spirits seem to make the paint run like water. It doesn't spray like automotive paint at all, so it's time to move to something hotter like acetone. The mineral spirits do however self level well, but so does water. The Mineral spirit mix does adhere better if you have a coat already on something though.

[Meph]

i still think my post will help you out, I covered mineral spirits vs lacquer thiner

[goodoldjam]

i still think my post will help you out, I covered mineral spirits vs lacquer thiner

Your post is very helpful.

I made the switch to acetone, mixing a 50/50 mix because the HF gun has trouble spraying thicker. Mostly I did a 50/50 mix out of fear and will probably reduce it a bit more because it is looking like it is going to leave some nasty orange peel but only on things I actually care about people seeing.

It covers well and I'm not seeing the the runs. Mineral spirits were a flat out mistake and not just because of runs, that stuff takes forever to cure. Combine that with it pooling and it is a huge headache, especially if you want to move along in less than a week. Anyway it's looking promising and Tomorrow I will get some pictures of what happens when you spray over the mineral spirit mix a couple days later. I also have the cowl piece sprayed with the acetone 50/50 mix, which I'm expecting to have probably sand smooth and respray with a thinner mix. Basically it's my test piece and I should be able to come up with the best mix before I go after the rest of the car.

The key being minimal runs and minimal orange peel or some kind of balance but runs being the biggest evil to avoid.

 

Meph I love the leave the bugs alone advice. I always want to figure out a way to get them out, No way in hell. That is one benefit to the Mineral spirits, it wasn't as appealing to gnats but still it's not worth using with how that stuff runs.

Edited September 12, 2010 by goodoldjam

[goodoldjam]

Here's what can happen when you respray the Mineral mix 2 days later. This is a spot where it had pooled up a bit and really it probably will never fully cure.

Here is a close shot of the 50/50 acetone mix. I tried to get sunlight on it, but the color makes it tough to take a picture of orange peel. This was done yesterday and it feels fully cured and probably just about sandable.

This jam was finished with rattle can, because the MS mix wouldn't cover. Out of a can doesn't leave a bad finish, I went this route because I wanted to get it done without pulling out the gun.

Basically I'm almost done with the jamming, minus a couple spots where it wrinkled. With the acetone mix I don't think I'll be seeing this issue anymore.

I think the thinner that is in the can is Toluene, maybe another good option.

Edited September 12, 2010 by goodoldjam

[goodoldjam]

Well my backyard hillbilly job is getting close to done. I'm fairly happy with it considering I wanted to get a shell and startover. More work to be done, some runs and a bit of touch up.

If anyone asks me why I painted in the yard I'll tell them I wanted to do it like they did in the old days. Just like TonyD Said "all done easily in the driveway, like they have been done for over 100 years!"

This was painted with 1 part rustoleum to 3 parts acetone. It seems to lay down alot better then the 50/50 mix with less runs. The airless really couldn't spray much thicker without spitting the paint.

 

Here's a car my brothers buddy had painted at Maaco. He took some crap for this one, that wrinkled quarter is freshly painted. I think the jams were purple and alot of the trim is also freshly painted. He even slipped the painter some extra money, thinking he may do a better job

Edited October 7, 2010 by goodoldjam

[Meph]

bit of wet sanding and polishing and u should have a nice looking paint job!