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1974 260z with rb?


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08/ - 10/2011

The bad and the good news!!

 

It's been awhile since I work on my z lately. Now in days I hardly have time for it since school started last august and I been concentrating in my classes, so nothing much was done since. 

 The bad news is oil still leaking, leaving puddle stain the next day, after warming up the car, and I don't even have a clue where the heck it's coming from. Maybe head gasket? Oil pan? Turbo? Inc. So with all these headache and guessing, I finally came to conclusion that I decide to pull out the motor and future rebuild the block and head, :(. 

 The good news is I'm in the market of buying a rb25 longblock, to put into the car until I rebuild the old motor. 

Just last week I located a long block locally from Venus and they want $800.00 for it. I went and check out the long block on Tuesday and wanted to deposit half of my money, and pay the rest on Friday when I pick up the motor. I have had ask him to provide a compression test right there, and he wouldn't bother to do it, even tho i will deposit the money. He told me if I ant buying today, he isn't going to waste his time. Then I told him, I'll come on Thursday to pick up the motor and he say it's shipment day so he doesn't sell stuff on that day, and for me to come on Friday. Friday, came along and I went their with a truck and money ready to buy. While I got there he say he sold the motor on Thursday already and check back next shipment. I left and say to myself this guy Ron, he's full of bs and I am not going to buy anything from him anymore. 

 

10/08-09/2011

 

So finally a 3 day weekend came along, and me and my brother decide  to pulled out the rb25 swap out of the z. 

 

10/10/2011

 

Sunday night I had research and read through forums to see who members had trust in the company that are selling jdm engine. I got couple company down that night, and decide to give them a call the next day. With 5 jdm engine company to choose from, I decide to go with Jdm Engine Crop, from Texas. They charge $800.00 plus $245.00 in shipping. I paid $1045 shipped, for a complete long block with no ecu, harness, and maf.   They have 6 in stock and would provide picture of the  engine that I would be getting, before being ship out. So, for $1045, I think it's a good deal, but would like to know what you guys think?

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10/11/2011

 

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Okay, I finally received the picture of my motor today, and I just confirm to them that I want what I had seen. Overall it looks clean, better then the one at Venus that I almost bought. Supposedly motor will be going out today, so looking to received it in 5 days. :) 

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Daz, I try my best to update but just been busy lately. Sorry

 

No worry's man, I understand ! I'm at a stand still also, waiting to save up to buy more stuff. I just bought a 16gal fuel cell and a Z06 cam for my engine. I still need a tranny. I've also been working on the rear suspension. Pulling everything off except the diff cause I still need a R200 mustache bar but everything else has been refurbished, painted, and Energy bushings installed.

 

BTW the longblock looks nice ! Good buy !

Edited by Daz
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10/17/2011

 

Today, finally the rb25 arrived. I was pretty happy on what I received, complete longblock minus ecu and maf. It was just like the picture they had sent me. Took it to school and did a leak down test. 1,2,3,4,6 were all under 20, and for some odd reason 5 were n the 25 range. I know it's bad to have leakage 20 and up, but I decide to leave it how it is and run it like that for now. 

 

How I received from jdm engine corps.  

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Begin dissemble all the parts

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Painted the block intake side red engine paint and mounted the Freddy manifold. 

 

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Now to the exhaust side with twin turbos, and oil lines reinstalling. 

 

The block had 2 broken exhaust stud when I got it. I didn't want to waste any times to take it to the machine shop and tell them to pull it out. So I decide to run as it is, aspecting that broken bolt will not cause it to leak and hopefully the remanding will have enough pressure to support it.   

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10/20/2011

 

From the past few days I been using those time to assemble the turbo stuff from the old block to the new block. Will today I finally got the swap into the car. Gonna use the weekend to wire up the motor, changed water pump, reinstall timing belt and inc, then  poor some oil and crack it up. Hopefully by the end of Sunday everything will be install and ready for a test drive to the exhaust shop to get my exhaust system build. Will post video of the startup when I get to that point.

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10-22 to 10-23

 

On Saturday I begin to dissemble the timing belt, tensioner, idler and water pump off the new motor. Water pump looks good, still spin freely, and it doesn't seem to rust or anything, like my previous rb motor and the one I seen. So decide to reuse the water pump and save the old from the other motor for backup.  Install tensioner, idler from old motor to new one, and install my greddy belt that I miss place it in my storage that lucky found it last couple days going through some box. Time for a beer! 

 

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After lunch, I decide to go head and install my throttle body leakage kit that came in on Friday. I went with the Lokar Inc. 48" ls1 tech throttle cable kit from summit racing, instead of using the new situp with the stock leakage like everyone else is using. I got this idea from hybridz member synthtk with rb26dett. Link below

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/83248-rb-throttle-cable-bracket/page__p__794836__hl__%2B240sx+%2Bcable__fromsearch__1#entry794836

 

Lokar inc. Throttle cable 

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Use drill bet 3/4 to dril a hole on the 260z gas pedal, so the throttle cable end will mount up to the pedal. 

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Found 2 identical  washer and decide to use them for support to the the end leakage in place. Then tuck the cable around the rb motor underneath the fuel rail to throttle cable. 

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Then I made a custom aluminum bracket from the left over aluminum that I used to make brackets for the intercooler. Use drill bit to drill the the  q45 throttle body cable locker housing bigger to accpet the Lokar ball end. 

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Test pedal and its engaging  n disengaging perfect. Now calling it a day, Time for another beer, :)

 

10/23

 

Saturday night was a drunk night so woke up around 12 afternoon on Sunday to work on the car. Hook up the belt for the alternator, wire the + positive wire from the alternator to stater, started wire to + positive on battery. - negative wire from tranny housing to - side battery. Wire up auto-meter pressure gauge and install intercooler piping from the intake side. Then add some qt of oil and its ready to hear it roar. Crank it first try and it started :), but is idling funny. You can hear it in the video

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss316/vangpheej/260z/6a2df44f.mp4

 

Sorry last couple 10-15 sec I notice I forgot to tighten the fuel hose into the fuel regulator and it was leaking, so had to rush to it. Glad to see it started, again and call it a day because of my soccer game at 3. I'll get a better video clip when i actually get some coolant into the motor. 

Edited by voltron_boi
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10-26-2011

 

Today, at work while i was on my lunch break and surfing online and  came upon a greddy oil catch that I had bought for $60.00 brand new. Hopefully will received it by friday the latest. On the other hand I'm still waiting on my water outlet adapter that is coming from china, which I order last we'd, so it needs to hurry up and come so i can hook up my water temperature sending unit and gauge.

     When I got home from work I decide to install the left over intercooler piping and tighten my radiator hose and get some coolant inside the cylinder, so I can start it up and let it idle for 5-10 min to see if their is any oil or water leak anywhere. 

    Warm up looks good, let it idel for 6 minute and their was no leak, :). Now to bleed my clutch and see if it engage into gear. 

    Clutch engage and the car moves, :). Now just gotta install my brake calipers, then add brake fluid, and bleed the brake, so I can take it for a drive around the block. But that won't happened till the next update, because I have to attend my night class. Cheers, red

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  • 2 weeks later...

10-28-2011

 Today i received my greddy oil catch can, when l arrive home from work. This thing looks like crap and cheap, but since its already been bought, I'll mind as put it into used. 

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10-29-2011

 

  Saturday, decide to install it onto the lady. Their hose sucks and diameter size of the hose are so small, so I had to buy another hose from autozone. Bought 4 foot of  hose line. 

  Decide to mount the catch can on the driver side wall close to the brake master cylinder. I used one long 12mm bolt with some washer and fasten the catch can into place. 

  Went on and install all the fittings onto the catch can and begin to plugged my hose line. Left fitting I plugged straight to the exhaust side valve cover, and the right side fitting I plugged that into the turbo outlet pipe that goes into the MAF. 

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   On the check-valve if that is what it's call the little breather that is on the intake side valve cover, I plugged that into the freddy manifold, with a T going into the brake booster. 

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11-03-2011

 

  Finally for a long wait, I finally received my water outlet adaptor and ZT-R rb26 downpipe from mickinney Motorsport's.  The quality and weld looks good, but I didn't like how the pipe got banged. Didn't no if it was like that from mm or zt-r did that to clear his car. But overall for 150, that's a hecka of deal instead of that china made downpipe that I almost purchase. 

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  I did a quick test fit before I left to school and it seem to bolt in if I remove the 1 stud on the dump pipe from the turbo.  

  So i remove the stud and it bolt in perfectly. I kno zt-r had mention that I will have to cut and reweld the pipe, but lucky I didn't have to do anything. Now just going to need to buy 2 o2 bugs and weld it onto the downpipe so I can mount my 02 sensors for correct readings. 

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11/08/2011

 

Today decide to install my autometer phantom 5" tach. I used a 10k ohms, that can be purchase at radioshack, and the picture below is to wired up my tach and it work out perfect. 

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  To mount the gauge in place I used the bracket that came with the Gauge and bang it nice in straight. Then I used zip-tide to hold each end of the bracket, so it won't move n place. 

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Now I just need a electric 5" speedo and a fuel level to complete my gauge setup. 

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  • 2 months later...

11/08 - 01/10/2012

 

These 2 months I have been really busy with these holidays and nothing major has been done. Just fender flare, greddy turbo timer, and greddy boost control, apexi sfc neo gen install. 

 

Fender flare I have purchase from eBay,  http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=180772011458

 

Cost me around $165, shipped from San Diego, California. 

It came with some screws, and none of the flare was mark to tell which  side goes to where. But that wasn't a big problem for me. I had a color choice of black or white so I decide to go with black, and the finished of the flare looks great. 

Before to after

 

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As for the  Greddy boost control I used this diagram that I found online to help me install it to the car. 

 

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The apexi sfc neo gen , their are 7 wires that I hook up after researching through other sites.

 

Sfc to ecu pin

 

Red and red/white to pin 58 w/b battery control

Green to pin 7 y/Red tech signal

Gray to pin 38 r/L

Brown and black to pin 60 b ground

Yellow wire to black pin going to ecu

White wire to black pin going out to afm

 

Next update would be on my exhaust system that I been focusing on these couple days ago. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

02/01/12

 

-School just started and got a little caught up with school,  so don't have that much time to work on the Lady. 

 

-But couple days ago I managed to figure out what is causing the sputter, bogg when it hits boost. I had that problem, because I route my vacuum line to my bov wrong. At first I connect the bov bottom vacuum nipple to the turbo hotside pipe. Yes, it will release pressure but won't go into boost while driving. While cursing through online n reading through some forum I came up with the same issue, and decide to do what they say. Now, I disconnect the bottom nipple and now connect the upper on the bov, and plugged it to my intake manifold for vaccum. Took it around the block, n BAM no more sputter n back fire. 

 

-I mention above that I have install the greddy boost control. While since it was a use controller, the pervious guy set it at 10 psi.  While driving at 10 psi, yes the car sure pull hard when it hits boost mode, but sometimes when it hits 10 psi it will back fire or sputter. Now I'm thinking is it fuel now that is causing that problem? 

 

-Probably next month I will be upgrading my maf to a z32 and will be purchasing a aeromotive fpr 13109 and upgrading the injectors into rb26, n see if that is the problem. 

 

-While that is being done n said, I was able to get some picture of my exhaust system that the muffler shop did. It's 3 inc all around, with a flex pipe and a greddy Evo muffler. 

 

-For $175.00, from flex pipe to exhaust.

 

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It's super quite, and I like how it sounds. I'll post up a video of the exhaust clip once I have that free time. :)

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voltron_boi :

 

 

 

I see that there are gauges mounted on the A pillar. Are these in a gauge pod or other mounting method? Would like to do the same. Please advise. Thanks.

 

02/08

 

Its very difficult to find a direct fit pillar pods, so yes I decide to go with the 2 1/16 autometer pods for the side gauge setup.

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Below is a clip of the straight pipe 3" greddy exhaust sound that I promise for ya. Taken during Super Bowl weekend. 

 

So now that's that, I have now decide to give my car to my next door neighbor to fix all the dents, dings, and holes. Then he will be premiering the whole car,  and paint the z after next month is over. 

Edited by voltron_boi
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