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1974 260z with rb?


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02/18

 

Saturday, I went ahead and took off my whole front end, doors, hatch, weather strip, and mark x on the hoes that needed to be weld and the dents that needed to be fix. Antenna, driver mirror, and rear bumper hole (shock) will all be weld shut.  

 

Before and after 

 

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I'm still debating if I should have my hatch window and my front windshield taken off, and reinstall it at the price of $150.00 from another neighbor who does mobile service for auto glass. Do you guys think $150.00 sounds fair enough?   

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Sounds nice ! Now for some video of it driving and hitting boost !

 

I will have some video up after I get my car painted. Hopefully by next month it should be done. Its been 2 weeks already and I miss driving it already.

 

Nice sound I have the same exhaust set up on my l28et.

 

I used to have a l28et on my 75 280z, but I sold that thing. During that time I had a megaflow and it sounded pretty loud compareing to the greddy. :)

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In these cars it took like 2 min with a razor. I just used a box cutter and jammed it in the old seal and went around the edges. popped it out from the inside. I then took it to a glass guy to re-install it with a new seal. That cost about $100 for just the front.

 

You should defiantly take out the windshield anyway to inspect for rust. if you have even a tiny bit it will spread and ruin your paint job ( in time).

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Fuzzydicerule and Bluedensity, I decide to go head and pay my neighbor to do it. Don't want to risk breaking anything, since the glass are like new.

 

03/01/12

 

Will today I got off work early, and got home and there was a package for me. It was my gauge. :). Now, finally to complete my 2 5/8 gauge setup on my dash, I received my autometer phantom fuel level gauge 5815 73-10 ohms pre 89 fords. Got it from eBay, for 25.00, ship. 

To Install the fuel level gauge I have to get 2 resistor to make it work with the z sending unit. 1 at 350ohm and the other at 360ohm. I order these resistor from Newark.com.  Took at least 2 days for me to received them. 

   Dismount the 260z factory fuel/volts gauge from the dash and open up the gauge. 

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Unscrew all the bolts at the back of the gauge, and move the plastic glass from the gauge. 

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Now you have the autometer gauge and the original housing from the 260z. To wire up the autometer fuel gauge. Both resistor needed to be mounted together and solider to a gauge wire and connect 1 end to sending and the other end to ground on the gauge. Gauge have 3 connection at the back of the gauge. Ground, I connect it with the light bulb ground to the gauge wiring ground on the z. Sending, to yellow wire, and ignition to green wire.  

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Now mount the autometer gauge into the z gauge cup, and tighten it with the autometer bolt that used to hold the gauge in place. 

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Now mount the gauge back onto the dash like how you took off the gauge.  :)

I use this page to wire up my autometer fuel level gauge. :)

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/61300-how-to-make-autometer-fuel-gauge-read-properly/

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

05/17/2012

 

Been away for awhile because of some family issue. Didn't have much time to work on the z, but I did documents when I had the time to work on the z last couple ago. As of now the z just got painted, and it's still at the shop getting polished and buff. Hopefully ill get it back by tomorrow, before the car meet in Manteca, ca on Saturday. I'll post pic once it's ready, :)

 

04/10/12

 I will be running (4) 6x9, (2) 3.5 speakers, amp, and a jvc deck. 

 

1 pair of 6x9 will be mounted by the tool box compartments behind the driver and passenger seat.  The pair of speaker that I will be using for that location is Polk audio. Bought these cheap from Craigslist for $50.

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 The other pair of 6x9 are Rockford fosgate power T1692,  and I got it from eBay for $55.  These pair will be going onto the plastic panel on the tail housing. 

 

The pair of 3.5 Polk db351 2-way  speakers will be going onto the air vent on the passenger and driver side dash. 

 

This setup is kinda like member shika805. 

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/87513-interior-re-do-and-custom-subwooferspeaker-install-enjoy/

 

Now that audio system and amp are all install n fasten in place, me and my brother went ahead and remove the original 260z deck, and had to dremel trim the side and corner of the counsel of the deck location.  Then to install the JVC Deck. Now let's hear some beats. :).

 

04/21/2012

 

Today I decide to modify my taillights into the 240z, that I have kept for years. For some reason, I just like the 240z taillight more then the 260/280.

 

I use a thread on this site to help me on this setup. Forgot what the link was but it's there. Didn't really took picture either on the process, so sorry, but it's a pretty straight forward modification. 

 

Before and after

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5/09 

Couple last shot of the car before getting painted. 

 

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Driver door jam

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Passenger door jam

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Edited by voltron_boi
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5/18/2012

 

A new look on my 260, that was freshly painted on Friday 

 

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05/19/2012 

 

Datslocos Datsun/show

 

Picture from the show that I took and other member had took

 

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And more to come...:D

Edited by voltron_boi
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  • 2 months later...

That looks so nice voltron!!  You did an amazing job on your Z.  :2thumbs:

 

Thanks RB26powered74zcar, your car is gorgeous itself.

  

What color code is that red? I love it.

 

Its a 3m brand paint, but don't no the code for it, ill ask my painter when I see him this weekend. But by the way, I was going after the oe color red 240z. 

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08/09/2012

 

It's been awhile since I last updated this build thread, because of my busy schedule. As for as my z goes, After the car show I decide to redo my z, because there was some minor error of dents here and there and too many orange peel, due of the fact that it was painted inside of my garage. So with my busy schedule I hardly touch the z, just here and there when I have the free time. 

 

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I had decide to do a full wire tuck on the chassis harness, and I know the engine bay looks like crap now, lol. But, I'm just waiting on the car to get repainted then I'll start detail the engine bay again. 

 

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The car is already done and ready to get it painted again. This time no garage painting, and it's going to get painted the right way, in the paint booth. We are thinking about getting the car painted this Saturday so hopefully everything goes as plan. 

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  • 2 months later...

10/05/2012

 

It's been awhile since I check up on my build thread. Was quite busy with car event, school and family stuff. Will enough bout that, I did managed to get the car painted and enter few car show like jccs in soCal, and hellaflush in norCal.

 

Was painted 8/18/2012, enjoy :)

 

Z getting her last touch before entering the paint booth

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Arrive at paint shop, getting mask up and tape

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Entering the booth

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Painted while in booth

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Outside getting her fresh air

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That's it for now, will update more with jccs and hellaflush photo.

Edited by voltron_boi
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  • 2 weeks later...

Update

 

With my currently fuel set up before, I wasn't really satisfy with it, because it is giving me fuel cut when my fuel level gauge reach 1/2. It will give me a hard time in starting the car up, unless I put more gas into her. So with that problem, I had made up my mind, and decide to pull out the surge tank and go with a fuel cell with sump, to solve this fuel cut, starvation problems that I am having. So at the mean time, I got my eyes on a 15 gallon on eBay. Hopefully I score that one, by this weekend, so wish me luck.

 

On the other hand, when I find myself a free weekend, the rb25 head will be coming off, because I am having a huge leak on the 1 of the twin turbo exhaust manifold. 2 stud from the manifold wont tight, after I keep on turning it. It just go, tight, tight, loose, and it will just repeat itself. In my mind probably the threads on the head are strip, and that's what its causing. I just hate it, how it's so annoying and distributing when driving the car around town with that plug, plug whatever that sound is, it's just straight up annoying.

 

 

10-24, 2012

 

I received my arp head stud kit just yesterday, and decide to work on the head.

 

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Head is off, now transfer the manifold to the new head.

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The block and piston will need to be clean, then will install the arp head stud, and then put the metal head gasket from previously on. It's a cosmetic metal head gasket that never seen 1 mile. Head stud on, metal head gasket on, and copper spray can on, ready to mount the new head.

 

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Head on, now to torque and tight the head and reconnect everything back on.

Edited by voltron_boi
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10-25

 

First attempt to start the car, and it started with no problem. No exhaust leak, no oil leak, no water leak, but rattling noise on the head, wtf!! Now let the car idle to full temperature , and start the bleeding on the coolant.

 

The noisy tapping noise from the head isn't going away. It just getting worst. Below is a short video of that tapping noise.

 

http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o692/Red260rbz/232735C5-FBB3-435E-A615-C77677F31E31-6229-000004B994A78363_zpsbbe60e6f.mp4

Edited by voltron_boi
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