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BLOZ UP


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Determined that cylinder 6 is usually not firing, and fouls plugs all the time. So, to patch this problem up temporarily while rebuilding the 3.3L, I gapped it at .060" (instead of the stock 0.045" or whatever), and it isn't fouling anymore it seems.

 

Then, I road tuned the car at 18psi with a friend. Got my AFR up from <10:1 to around 12:1, and it haaauuuuuls now.

 

Yesterday I put most of the rest of my heat shielding crap on my the master cylinder's metal heat shield. It gets pretty hot after running, so I thought this might not be a bad idea.

 

I'm entered for an August 3rd autocross. Slightly worried that my fuel pump might call it quits again, but this is likely the last event I'll be able to attend this year.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finished up most of the carpet, still a little trim to do. Took it to work without incident, although the fuel pump did not like sitting in traffic.
 
Went to the track a couple days ago, didn't get enough runs in to really tune it well in high boost, and the more fuel I took out the more spark blow out I seemed to have. The first run it bottoms out the AFR to 9:1 (I'm assuming from previous tuning sessions, I didn't get a chance to datalog since after waiting 2 hours in the staging lanes I had zero warning before our lane was told to go up). I pulled a little fuel and got it to 10.0 to 10.2 on the second run (much less smoke), but experienced lots of misfires in 3rd and 4th so it's hard to trust the datalog.

 

[sharedmedia=videos:videos:209]

 

On the drive home it was still missing in boost, even low boost, so I might have broken something.

 

I will check the plugs and hopefully still be able to go to the autocross tomorrow.

Edited by BLOZ UP
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Autocross! 18 pounds of boost! Fun!

 

First run with just 12psi - 58s

 

Turn up the boost to 18psi - 52s

 

So clearly I need to run as much boost as possible. It dried out for my other heat; I have a few more runs where I spun out that I'll put up later. Best event time was 49.814, I had to leave early so I missed 2 extra runs. Sucks, because my friend in a 2013 Dodge Charger boat beat me with a 49.5.

 

Here's my most aggressive run in the rain:

 

 

Hit the last cone in the last slalom, right before the finish. Carried it to the pits.

Edited by BLOZ UP
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I need a new seat and possibly a harness, I was flying around in the stock one. That and new brakes, it's pretty hard to lock these tires up.

 

Best run (sort of):

 

 

Spin 1:

 

 

Spin 2:

 

 

Outside view:

 

 

I need a GoPro.

Edited by BLOZ UP
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I know. It's not really built for autocross, and I'm a terrible driver.

 

What really surprised me is that I made it not only there, not only through all my runs, but I also made it back home.

Edited by BLOZ UP
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A couple of updates. Ordered a TTT front strut bar and bump steer spacers. Also got some 1.5" pipe to route my wastegate dump into my exhaust.

 

f426225.jpg

 

For plumbing the wastegate, it's kind of a hard decision. I wanted to plumb it in past the vband (further downstream), right into a nice 15 degree bend. This would minimize the bends in the wastegate tube, but will make removing the downpipe pretty much impossible without removing the brake shield, and possible the driver side exhaust manifold.

 

785d5d9.jpg

 

So, to plumb it before the v-band, it will require two 180 degree turns, and look pretty crazy. I have a slip over joint that needs to go on as well, but it looks like I should be able to fit it all on there.

 

Should be interesting. I need a machine shop to mill out a hole for the notched wastegate tube to mate to, the stainless 3" pipe seems to have hardened. I'm really looking forward to the car being "quiet" at full boost.

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a2039e1.jpg

 

Got the strut bar and spacers the other day, but the strut bar is a rear instead of the front, so another one is on the way. Was going to install the spacers but I ran out of time...

 

They are from Techno Toy Tuning and are really high quality.

Edited by BLOZ UP
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Finished the wastegate plumbing. Turned out nice. Somewhat difficult to remove and install, but nothing has to be moved out of the way, so I'll count my blessings.

 

9377183.jpg

 

3c14ae5.jpg

 

1d407ad.jpg

 

I used a slip fitting which was a much nicer quality steel then my bends. The bends were also thinner, and I blew through it. Big blob in the picture above.

 

583d42c.jpg

 

Stealth mode activated. It's much nicer now. At WOT it sounds like a normal car flooring it, no longer the screaming nonsense that attracts every cop in a 5 mile radius. Also broke traction in second gear most of the time. Don't remember it doing that on clean pavement before...

 

I also correctly wired in my launch control clutch switch... but it ain't working correctly.

Edited by BLOZ UP
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  • 1 month later...

Tuned a little. Changed spark plugs, using a smaller gap. I'm having lots of misfires at 0-10% throttle, that go away when you floor it. It happened before but appears to be more pronounced now with the smaller gap, and with a cold engine.

 

Also noticed it was low on oil, looks like a quart or so every 500 miles is burning. I've topped it off for an autocross tomorrow.

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Well, I didn't take so well to this event's course layout. I noticed that I can't give 100% throttle, even low boost (8psi) without having oversteer problems.

 

First run:

 

 

Worst run:

 

 

Best run:

 

 

So, things to improve:

 

  • Seat + harness. I'm sliding around like a maniac, and have to use my clutch foot to press my body into the seat
  • Shifter + shift knob. Tired of the lengthy throw and the dumb knob coming off in my hand.
  • Sway bars
  • Suspension bushings
  • LSD
  • Coilovers

 

The seat is going to have to wait, but the shifter and bushings I might tackle soon. I even have a CLSD sitting in my garage (actually from the parts car whose engine ended up in my 280Z), and 2 or 3 extra Z31 turbo half shafts.

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