rztmartini Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 As the title states, my temporary motor (L28 with P90) has developed a taste for engine oil rather than fuel. I would guess it is burning it at a rate of about 1 quart oil/3 gallons gas. It is so bad, it leaves a big black soot mark on the ground whenever I start it up and the smoke is killing me when I go off throttle at anything over 3000 rpm. My other engine (3.1) is awaiting pistons so I (hopefully) I won't be driving this motor for very much longer. I know its the rings, not the valve seals, and have tried that oil additive stuff, but I think its too far gone. Does any one have some suggestions to make life bear-able until the other motor is done??? I could care less about the end result of the pistons/block if there is a temporary solution that will end up trashing all moving parts in the long run. My lungs (and other drivers) will thank you greatly! -Smokescreen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyleG Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 Your local auto parts store should have additives that will help. Something along these lines: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Bardahl-16-oz-no-smoke-treatment/_/N-260b?counter=8&itemIdentifier=491825_0_0_ My car would go through about a gallon of oil every 1000 miles or so, and this stuff cleared up my problem for the most part. Your burning way more than that, but it might slow the flow a bit. Good luck As the title states, my temporary motor (L28 with P90) has developed a taste for engine oil rather than fuel. I would guess it is burning it at a rate of about 1 quart oil/3 gallons gas. It is so bad, it leaves a big black soot mark on the ground whenever I start it up and the smoke is killing me when I go off throttle at anything over 3000 rpm. My other engine (3.1) is awaiting pistons so I (hopefully) I won't be driving this motor for very much longer. I know its the rings, not the valve seals, and have tried that oil additive stuff, but I think its too far gone. Does any one have some suggestions to make life bear-able until the other motor is done??? I could care less about the end result of the pistons/block if there is a temporary solution that will end up trashing all moving parts in the long run. My lungs (and other drivers) will thank you greatly! -Smokescreen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rztmartini Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 I have used the "Restore" stuff, pic included. No change noticed. I guess I will try everything I can find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 (edited) What weight of oil are you running now? How long until the new engine is done? Edited October 4, 2010 by cockerstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 Could always put it on a diet and stop feeding it oil? Itll stop consuming oil on its own sooner or later. Probably sooner. Sadly for toasted rings there isnt much you can do, short of tearing it down and replacing the rings, at least not in my humble experiences. Whats a realistic time-frame to have your 3.1 together? If its that far off, replacing the rings might not be that bad of an idea after all. For starters rings are cheap- and ill tell you from first hand experience you can do it without taking the engine out of the car. I replaced all of my pistons with the motor still in the car, just undid the oil pan/head and had at it. Took me one night after work with a buddy to get it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHO-Z Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 OLD School Again: Drain you oil, and put in ATF as a flush, start the engine and let it idle for 30 minutes, do not drive the car . It helps if you put some cardboard if front of the radiator to get the engine on the warm side. Drain the ATF and put in 20-50 oil. ATF is high detergent and can get all of the sludge out of your engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goodoldjam Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 (edited) Maybe you could run some straight 50w, It should slow it down a little. Maybe combine that with some of that engine honey. Sounds like your just after a temporary fix, that's what I would do. Only problem is on cold days it can be hard stuff to turn over. Edited October 4, 2010 by goodoldjam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 Do the Seafoam treatment. Put in 20w50 oil. What is the compression on the cylinders? Black is usually fuel. Bluish/white is oil. At what point do you notice the smoke - just idling, on acceleration or decelleration? Idling/acceleration = rings Decelleration = valve guides This is of course assuming that it IS burning oil, which the black smoke doesn't suggest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rztmartini Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 Its not black smoke, it leaves black soot on the ground when I start it cold. The smoke is a white color, at least it looks white when it fills the cabin It develops smoke most on off throttle deccelerattion when at high rpm (>3000). I have tried 2 different heads on there with the same problem: origional was N42, took it off because I was hoping it was valve seals. Put a P90 on from an engine that was not smoking. Do the Seafoam treatment. Put in 20w50 oil. What is the compression on the cylinders? Black is usually fuel. Bluish/white is oil. At what point do you notice the smoke - just idling, on acceleration or decelleration? Idling/acceleration = rings Decelleration = valve guides This is of course assuming that it IS burning oil, which the black smoke doesn't suggest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Black soot on ground = RICH White smoke is water vapor. What does it SMELL like (other than exhaust). Slightly sweet = water w/antifreeze. If so, you may have a crack in your head allowing water into combustion chamber. Bluish smoke = oil and will smell like burnt oil. If it IS bluish, then valve guides or seals. You may have a crack in your head allowing water into combustion chamber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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