KyleG

I decided to get some TTT upgrades, including bump steer spacers, and front sport brakes and hubs. I thought I would share my experiences of the TTT parts with Hybrid Z. My total came to 2080$ CAD + 600$ of duties as I carried it across the border. Not a small price to pay, but I wanted to get some high quality parts to get my 280Z's front end working right. I purchased the Aluminum front hubs, with "Factory front and rear mounting faces". Unfortunatly, the "factory mounting" did not include the conical portion of the hub, and the hubs did not fit my XXR rims. I've used the XXR rims on the stock front hubs for years. TTT offered to allow me to return the hubs, or I could pay out of my own pocket to Remove tires, ship rims and hubs them to their facility for machining, and ship back to me, re-install tires. Spending a few hundred in tire mounting and shipping did not seem appealing, and sending them back left me with no hubs. I wound up taking half a day off work, and sourcing a small local machine shop to do the work at my expense for 100$ (+time off). (2780$ now) Next I installed the brake kit, and the SS brake lines. The provided lines and fittings did not provide an acceptable routing (see the pics below). I used the alternate hose -> caliper fitting (a 90 degree coupler) but the lines were too short for that configuration and pulled tight when the steering was at full lock, and rubbing on the tire at full opposite lock. Using the straight fitting led to very tight bends in the hose, that worsened as the steering was turned. Eventually I decided to run it using the straight fittings, and would keep an eye on the tight bends to ensure the hose didn't fatigue. As I tightened everything up, the seats on the SS brake lines cracked (!) and would not seal. I was very careful during the installation not to over tighten everything. I've never seen that before. On standard brake lines, I've stripped the hex off the nut with out damaging the lines inside. TTT quickly provided me with replacement brake lines, but how can I trust the replacements after the first set cracked.... I wound up purchasing a 10mm flare -> NPT fitting to join the stock hard lines to the wilwoods, and some brand new rubber hoses to get a propper routing. I have no idea why TTT would not route the SS line to the strain relief on the strut, and use hard lines like the stock system. It seems to me like a reliable and safe way to route the lines, and would not leave any of the routing up for interpretation. Costs to install brakes: Fittings 25$ CAD + 20$ shipping, Brake Flex Lines 20$+ 30$ Shipping. New total: 2875$. Overall installation of these components that should have bolted on cost me 195$ extra, and I am stuck with rubber flex lines instead of SS. Some pictures of the issues are below. Lip machined into hubs to allow my XXR rims to fit. They fit the stock hubs fine. Routing of provided brake lines. Note tight angles , that got worse as the steering turned. Crack in the seat of the conical mating surface in the SS brake line. I took care not to over tighten the fitting during installation. My version of brake hose routing: 1/8NPT -> 10mm Flare Fitting: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/1-8-npt-male-to-m10-1-0-female-inverted-flare-adapter-fitting-diy-a-1-8npt-m10.html PS. I have a set of brand new SS brake lines of questionable integrity for free, if anyone would like them.

Got one, thanks Z240!

You've got a PM, thanks Thanks for the offer, I was planning on running an internal wastegate to save a few $. If I can't find an un-cut one, I'll see if you still have yours up for sale.

As the title states, I'm looking to buy a 280zx Turbo Exhaust Manifold. If you've got one, please send me pics and a price shipped to 48226, Thanks!!

A solution was found, this thread can be closed. Thanks everyone.

Hello All, My blower speed switch has kicked the bucket - with no continuity on any setting. Looking to buy another, will cover shipping. Pics for reference, let me know your price if you have one, prefered if you could verify functionality with a continuity test [/url] Thanks!!!

Be cautious, JB weld dissolves after contact with gasoline for a while. I tired to seal a leak at my sending unit with it, it turned gummy and started leaking with in a week. Use fuel safe epoxy if welding isn't possible.

I had a similar issue on my car. The problem was a loose connection at the temperature sensor (the one for the ECU not the dash gauge), causing the car to run extremely rich. Similar issue, lots of black smoke, no starting, etc. Check out that connection.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/mpx4250-25-bar-map-sensor-p-106.html DIY autotune lists this as the sensor for PCB 2.0 & 3.0 (probably 3.57 too, I have a 3.57 and the sensor looks pretty similar to this) You could open it quickly and verify you have the same MAP sensor. http://cache.freescale.com/files/sensors/doc/data_sheet/MPX4250A.pdf is the spec sheet for this sensor. Pg 9 shows a 4.93mm nipple - thats very very close to 3/16".

Ive got XXR 530 16" +0 with the same tire, and a 1" drop with lowering springs. The fronts were sooo close to the spring perch I threw a 3mm spacer in, they also hit the stock front "skirt/lip" side pieces when turning hard. The rears fit fine. With my springs, the tires rubbed on hard corners till i rolled the fenders. My 2 cents, good luck choosing.

Lookin good mate, just need to fix the 4x4 look and drop it a few inches

May as well put my engineering degree to some use here the thermal expansion coefficient for steel is 7.3 in^-6 / in * F So if you cool the 2" steel strut tube by 10 degrees F itl shrink 0.000146". The aluminum tube will expand a similarly small amount from heat. That's probably more than you really cared to know though Short answer, your not going to get 0.085" from heating/cooling. At most you will get a few thousandths of an inch. Here's a handy dandy calculator http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/linear-thermal-expansion-d_1379.html Cheers!

Thanks for sharing. That exhaust manifold design kit looks awesome!

Bump! Hopefully some more people sign up for this. Seems like a cost effective way to get some vented rear discs onto our cars!

Glad to see someones finally stepped up to the plate on this, but Morocicity doesn't sell to end users... Anyone know of retailers with tokico back in stock? Id love to replace my oem kyb's

these are XXR 530 in 16X8.25 4x100/4x114.3 et0 (<- thats the spacing) with 225/50R16 tires. The car has lowering springs. all the fenders needed rolling to clear the tires, and the front valence had to be removed because it was scrubbing hard when I turned. The front wheels have ~ 1/16" clearance between the tire and the strut towers, its tight. One last point, this is a 280z, im not sure how different 240s are. I seem to remember the strut diameter is smaller, perhaps they would fit better? P.s. theres a thread showing wheel fitment, with sizes and pics on here somewhere. You may want to check that out.

Also, would you mind clarifying the parts us buyers would need to supply? I see the calipers are 2004 Lincoln LS (rears I assume), but rear Lincoln LS rotors appear to be 288mm. What 300mm rotors has this been designed to work with? Thanks again

Count me in for a set, with spacers please! (im shane_rbz on the ozc forum).

Hope this helps a bit. I run 16X8.25" wheels with 0 backspacing with 225/50/R16 tires. The tires are less than 1/8 from the springs, and (with the car dropped 1.5") rub on the un-rolled fenders. With fenders rolled it juuust clears. Cheers.

Check your floats. One could be stuck or full of fuel and sinking. That could be the culprit.

The fpr sets fuel pressure to 36psi above the pressure in the intake manifold. When you are idling, there is a vacuum in the manifold, reducing your fuel pressure (to 36 psi - intake vacuum). By unplugging this line, you are increasing your fuel pressure and making your car run richer and idle a bit higher. If you just want to increase your idle to a more stable level, turn the big screw by the throttle body. If theres an issue with your car running lean, you could find out by looking at your plugs. All this theory is covered in the EFI bible. Its a great read if you're new to the parts of the fuel injection system.

NRG RSC-400BK seats fit great with no mods to the car or the seats themselves. The price for a set isn't too bad either. I'll try to post some pics later tonight once they're in for good.

I managed to resolve this issue, so I figured I'd post my solution incase someone else stumbles across this thread looking for answers. The engine was rebuilt by the P.O., and the shaft driving the distributor was off ~220 degrees. The P.O. tried to compensate by moving the plug wires 3 over (180 degrees) and adjusting the distributor for another 20, leaving the timing 20 degrees off still. The solution was to cut a slot into the distributor adjustment channel and rotate it further to get the correct timing.

Well, my fuel pressure seems fine at just over 35 psi, and everything else i have checked from the efi book has performed properly too. If you had any advice on what else to look at, id be very appreciative.

Thanks for the feedback Galderdi and NewZed, its very helpful. My engine misfires and lacks power between 1000-3000 rpm. I tried the test in the FSM, and hooked up a power supply to the AFM. The results seemed smooth and linear as I moved the flap, and the Flap did not bind. Ive also checked for vacuum leaks with a can of carb cleaner, and nothing has showed up. All the other electrical checks have come back fine, so i suppose its on to the fuel circuit next. If either of you had any suggestions, id be willing to give them a shot.