No Spark! need help from the wisest!

[280zbeeT]

so as some of you know I haven't been around for a while, I just finished my new swap, and as I posted about this situation months ago, its acured again! No Spark!

 

Im getting No spark to the distributor, to the coil, no spark anywhere, OR I am getting Very little spark.. and then it goes away?

 

Now, everything Was fine, then we swapped out my tranny, and entire engine.. Im sure most of you remember I have a stock coil, dumb igniter, and 280zx dizzy, I have a 76 280z with a 82 280zx turbo setup, running Haltech e11,v2 (could this be related?) right now the car is at Bill Shearers shop, and he cant figure it out So far, either..

 

I already swapped out for a new coil, and a new igniter, and still no spark. and the only difference this time is that I had to re do the timing.. but bill says its right on point? 20 after.

 

So I was thinking, could it be some of these situations,

 

Electrical problem? Short?

Could my Haltech be damaged? we have hooked it up, and its turning on etc, no issues..

Relays are clicking over as well, but could that be it?

I also just put a New alternator and it has a brand new voltage regulator internally its the maxima alternator,

one other thing I did before this issue began was I changed out my spark plugs..

 

could it be just my dizzy? but we already swapped that out last time as well, and still no spark..

 

so still remains, very little spark, then it goes away, not sure where to go from here!

 

 

thank you guys, please if you can, do reply anything will help..

[CarJway]

Okay, it looks like nothing has changed...

 

So the same questions I asked from your previous threads apply...

1.HOW is your haltech being triggered?

2.Once you find that, what specific wires are leading to your triggering device

 

Plug up a laptop, and look at the options that state the trigger type. Also, pull up the sensor/timing display on the Haltech, and see what is happening when you crank. That will INSTANTLY tell you is it's pre/post Haltech issues.

 

Again, narrowing down this problem is quiet simple, but with out knowing WHAT triggers your Haltech... I am just shooting in the dark.

Edited October 13, 2010 by Carjway

[280zbeeT]

I just haven't been able to figure out How the haltech is triggered. I know, that the if the timing is not right, the haltech wont send a signal to send spark etc. etc. I will try to find out today or tomorrow.

 

 

I will see if he can do that with the haltech to figure out a better scenario. thank you!

[280zbeeT]

so I spoke to the shop that is doing the car, and he said the haltech is fine, were getting out fuel pump, injectors are clicking over, timing A on right, haltech is working fine, and he can log into it, and the compression he is said is outstanding, its just no spark.. and weve tried a new igniter, new dizzy, new coil even an msd blaster coil, were just not getting any spark to the distributor or the coil etc.. I just dont get it? what could this be..

[CarJway]

I am not sure what changing the Dizzy would do? Either the Haltech gets signal or not. And this sounds to me like your just changing parts for the fun of it. If you simply follow the White and White/Black shielded wires out of the Haltech, you would understand what is going on. Either your getting Crank/Cam position from the stock dizzy, or have a custom made crank trigger. Look at your Dizzy and see if wires are plugged into it. If so, what colors etc. Also, I have mentioned to you to give me a log/or settings of your trigger to no avail.

 

This is the screen you need to pull up on the Haltech. If the RPM gauge moves, then it's either Haltech settings/Post Haltech. If the RPM gauge doesn't move, then it's either your trigger settings or the actual trigger device. Good luck.

 

[280zbeeT]

I dont see how this is so complicated for some of you to understand..

I was not getting spark, so to see What the issue was, WE TRIED A NEW AND IN WORKING CONDITION - Dizzy, Coil, Ignitor, etc etc. - WE just TRIED those as far as trying to determine if any of those would be the issue BUT no, still same situation.. understand now? I did buy those we just tried probable causes and then switched out the parts back to my friends Working 280z... make sense?

 

there ARE wires coming out from under my dizzy, its a harness type thing, we already made a new harness for the dizzy, and still Nothing, and I do not have access to my haltech as far as MAPS and Settings etc, the guy at the shop is doing that, and states that it all checks out, and hooking up the haltech he gets signal, he gets RPM reading, there seems to be no issue with the haltech, perfect compression, fuel pump turns on, injectors clicking over, no spark..

 

We did follow the wires going out of the haltech, we checked the haltech, significantly, and still no issues there.. Haltech gets signal, rpm gauge works etc.

 

I will continue to try and get more of the info youve asked for, and Im still waiting for the guy I bought the car from to write me back in email about those settings.. thanks again!

 

Please, if anyone else can make an effort and try to help, I see you guys all post so many threads about stuff, and here I really need help so please try to understand this situation, I dont see why Im only getting One person to help me. If you guys dont want me here tell me and Ill piss off. I dont need to be bugging you. I thought this was a Z community, for people who need help and are experts, well I need help so thanks for all the outstanding help guys!

[primer&rust]

Did you check to make sure you have power at the ignition coil. You can use a test light to the positive at the primary side of the coil to check. Could be wiring is burnt/old/bad, fuse, or fusible links, or the shunt box if you still have it on the car. Also check your grounds and relays if possible and maybe ignition switch. Sometimes the little stuff can make big problems.

[djz]

If you are going to be a jackass you are going to get very little help.

 

Are you 100% sure the Haltech is being triggered by the dizzy? If the Haltech is being triggered off the front crank pulley then changing the dizzy is pointless. What kind of dizzy is it? Is it compatible with the Haltech? Are you using a reluctor distributor (non turbo) or a hall sensor type (turbo)? Do you need to change the trigger plate inside the dizzy?

 

Have you read the Haltech instuction manual and do you understand what it says?

 

Have you traced all the wires for the ignition side of things? By the looks of it there are only 6 at the most. Do you know what each one does and whether it is a signal wire, a power wire or a ground? Are they each doing what the should be doing?

Is the ignitor wired correctly? If the distributor is a hall effect style does it have power and a ground? Is the power to it being supplied by the computer? I'm fairly sure it shouldn't be hooked directly up to a 12 volt source.

 

Is the Haltech setup correctly according to the instruction manual for the ignitor/distributor setup you are using?

 

Take the car to either an autoelectrican or someone that has experience with Haltechs.

 

 

 

Edited October 15, 2010 by djz

[280zbeeT]

Did you check to make sure you have power at the ignition coil. You can use a test light to the positive at the primary side of the coil to check. Could be wiring is burnt/old/bad, fuse, or fusible links, or the shunt box if you still have it on the car. Also check your grounds and relays if possible and maybe ignition switch. Sometimes the little stuff can make big problems.

 

well, we did change out the coil, and put a more powerful MSD coil in there, along with changing the entire igniter with a working one from my friends car.. all this started right after my last swap, so thats why its so confusing to everyone involved working on the car.. I did check / change many fuses, the ground could be it.. thats why when I go into the shop tommorow, I actually printed out all the questions from this thread and Im going to go question by question to check off and get everything answered, but at this time fuses, grounds, relays (all working), and wires look fine..

 

 

for the second question,

 

its a just a stock coil/igniter with a 82 turbo distributor.. this is my 3rd engine swap, and I never had this problem on the other 2 engines, we had No problem? and after this 3rd one, we switched out the transmission etc. and had to reset the timing wich is the only difference in swaps, That and I changed out the spark plugs to a bigger gap, but I doubt that could do it..

from my understanding, if the timing is off, I would not be getting my injectors clicking over or my fuel pump turning on.. which was the first situation, and now since I had the timing re set the injectors are clicking over, spark is the last thing to figure out now..the haltech and the distributor have been used together on this car for over 2 years that I know about, so I know the dizzy and compabatibility is not the issue..the guy at the shop did trace the wiring, and he said it all looks fine? we even changed out the harness from the dizzy to make sure that wasnt it..

 

the checklist you posted at the very bottom is what Im going over tommorow morning, and yes I am getting an RPM reading, and the guy working on the car has already hooked the haltech up to a laptop and said everything looks fine?

[CarJway]

Wow... I have given you my personal cell phone number, AND even asked to look at your logs personally. Quite frankly gone out of my way to provide any help to you. I ask you questions to try and help you even more with that type of response?

 

Let me ask YOU something. How COMPLICATED is it figure out what triggers YOUR Haltech? It takes no more than 5 minutes to figure that out by following the schematic found online. (Google is your friend) I really doubt you should be asking me if I understand anything, because I obviously understand how to get this set up. Otherwise, I wouldn't be asking the questions I am. That is the first response you have given that provides any insight to the Haltechs actions. I have personally set up quite a few Haltechs and run through the same problems you are currently having. Good luck getting this setup with that attitude.

[NewZed]

Wow... I have given you my personal cell phone number, AND even asked to look at your logs personally. Quite frankly gone out of my way to provide any help to you. I ask you questions to try and help you even more with that type of response?

 

Let me ask YOU something. How COMPLICATED is it figure out what triggers YOUR Haltech? It takes no more than 5 minutes to figure that out by following the schematic found online. (Google is your friend) I really doubt you should be asking me if I understand anything, because I obviously understand how to get this set up. Otherwise, I wouldn't be asking the questions I am. That is the first response you have given that provides any insight to the Haltechs actions. I have personally set up quite a few Haltechs and run through the same problems you are currently having. Good luck getting this setup with that attitude.

 

 

It looks like 280zbeet is in just a little bit over his head. He is pretty obviously relaying what he reads here to his mechanic and his mechanic is then telling him what he thinks (eg "the guy working on the car has already hooked the haltech up to a laptop and said everything looks fine"). And back and forth. So what looks easy for those with experience is not actually so easy for 280zbeet. He is translating both ways but not actually turning the wrenches or running the laptop. So in this case it is COMPLICATED.

 

Just my impartial view. Probably doesn't help anything but gives another perspective. If the mechanic could get on here it might help.

Edited October 18, 2010 by NewZed

[280zbeeT]

that reply wasnt directed towards you carjway I know youve helped me alot, Im talking to other people. Im not trying to argue with you guys.

 

and yes I am "turning the wrenches" but No, I have no experience with an standalone ecu so yes the guy is a Tuner and hes doing the haltech and trying to get the car going again.

 

anyways we have some more figuring out to do take care.

[Gollum]

If the guy tuning KNOWS haltech, AND he's verified haltech is setup properly, he should be able to tell you if the problem is pre or post haltech, which is what we've been looking for.

 

My guess is that it's pre-haltech, and I'm betting since you're trying other dizzy's that haltech is being triggered by the sensor in the dizzy.

 

This conclusion would mean it's a select few parts, but still many possibilities.

 

Bad Dizzy (you've changed, but maybe they're both bad or the other you tried is different enough that it wouldn't be compatible with the same wiring scheme?)

 

Bad coil - easy to test and see

 

Bad wiring somewhere. This is what I'm betting there's a chance of it being. Double check ALL of your wiring and make sure your ignition switch is triggering the ignition relay correctly and that there's power getting to the coil..