michaelp Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 SO, I finally got my 260Z home. When I picked it up today, the guy gave me a TON of paperwork, receipts from over the years etc. The car was last registered in 1979, and the Webers, header, exhaust, etc, were purchased and installed in 1982. I also have the original window sticker. It has 45,000 original miles, with matching documentation, last registered expired in 1979 (stickers still on the windshield). The car has a set of Italian-made Weber 40 DCOEs on a Cannon intake manifold, which was Purchased brand new and Installed in 1982. It also has what I was told was a NISSAN MOTORSPORT header, and also a Pacesetter exhaust (with paperwork of its purchase also in 1982). I can't find any of the paperwork about the purchase of the header, though. I'm quite sure the car was NEVER driven with any of the modifications, but its hard to say. I'm guessing that based on the last time it was registered. Anyone know what these tail lights are for? They were in a box of stuff I got with the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UofA_ZCar Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 (edited) Nice find! I have the original window stick for my 73, something crazy like $2400 brand new. You have some valuable stuff there judging from the pictures (hub caps, crack free center console, obviously the webers, and looks like a crack free dash!). What are your plans? Edited October 18, 2010 by UofA_ZCar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 Nice find! I have the original window stick for my 73, something crazy like $2400 brand new. You have some valuable stuff there judging from the pictures (hub caps, crack free center console, obviously the webers, and looks like a crack free dash!). What are your plans? Yup, crack free dash! I actually have 2 crack free center consoles, didn't know it was an issue. I have another 74 260Z I bought for $200 a year ago, but the floors are 100% shot in it. I'd like to get it running on the webers, but idk. Like I said, car was last registered in '79 and they were installed in 82. Plans overall, L28ET sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 (edited)  The Webers will clean right up.  You may need a gasket kit for them.  Open, disassemble, clean, reassemble, turn the key.  Oh yeah and read about them...they are not as viscous as their reputation.  Overall, you have a decent platform to start with.  You will be pleasantly surprised at how well it will clean up with elbow grease.  Love the hubcaps!  The only thing that I would be worried about is the rust on the door sill.  Are those rust holes on the door sill?  How bad is the inside of the rocker? Edited October 18, 2010 by cygnusx1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 (edited) Yeah, theres a couple holes there. It was in a garage most of its life, but spent about 2-3 years outside on a concrete slab, which is where the rust came in. Rockers seem ok, but I have a sand blaster at which I'll be sandblasting inside the rockers and such, then getting fresh paint over all of it. Oh yeah, and the drivers window will roll down but not up, the handle jams when trying to go up. So I have to look at that, probably just gonna have to grease it or something. Passenger window is off the tack, so another thing to look at. Edited October 18, 2010 by michaelp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 Mallory distributor: Carb rebuild kit, but not for the webers. SU maybe? "Miyaco" Hydraulic Brake parts (wheel cylinder) Asbestos equiped antique brake pads, front: (LOL) New in package DATSUN interior rivets: Seals for something (says on the package, but I forgot what they were): JCC Clutch Slave Cylinder: "Quality Brake Products" front caliper rebuilt kits: The passenger fender has some holes, so I'm going to steal the one from my other 260Z I bought a year ago (it has no floors at all) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted October 27, 2010 Author Share Posted October 27, 2010 Pulled the fender and inner fender off: I decided to stick with my NA L, and began taking it apart to swap in the L28 This guy was hiding (dead for a long time) in my frame rail, where it appears a small rust hole has developed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted November 25, 2010 Author Share Posted November 25, 2010 So, I finally pulled the head off the 45,000 mile L26. I've confirmed its an EARLY 260Z based on a ton of evidence I've found, even though I was told its a late. It has the early front turn signals, and flat-top pistons. Later 260Zs had 280Z front turn signals, and dished pistons. And as far as pulling the head off, it explained a lot of things. The cylinder walls are rusted badly, and well...i'll let the pictures explain the other part. I'm still not sure what this is: I put the passenger fender off my other '74 on it, and since it had to go outside for a little while I primed the spots I had sand blasted. I put a lot of the interior in and cleaned it, carpet needs vacuuming. Just trying to confirm its all here. I'm not sure which header I want to use, the top one is a MSA header and the bottom is a pacesetter, both have 1.5" primaries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Yes, it's an early 260Z for sure. The rear bumper indents are a dead giveaway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 (edited) I'm not sure which header I want to use, the top one is a MSA header and the bottom is a pacesetter, both have 1.5" primaries. I'd use the MSA 6-1 header if they're both in usable condition. It should have better scavenging than the 6-2, but on a street engine performance gains are minimal. Therefore, go with the one in better shape (straight flange). Edited November 25, 2010 by Leon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted November 26, 2010 Author Share Posted November 26, 2010 I'd use the MSA 6-1 header if they're both in usable condition. It should have better scavenging than the 6-2, but on a street engine performance gains are minimal. Therefore, go with the one in better shape (straight flange). Both are pretty usable and have basically never been run on, they're just old. I took a piece of sand paper and both seem like they'll clean up well, which is what I'll do then coat them. Was thinking about using the MSA header, and I'll probably sell the other one. On a street car gains are minimal, even with triple webers, 10.4:1 CR, ported head, and a cam in a L28? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Both are pretty usable and have basically never been run on, they're just old. I took a piece of sand paper and both seem like they'll clean up well, which is what I'll do then coat them. Was thinking about using the MSA header, and I'll probably sell the other one. On a street car gains are minimal, even with triple webers, 10.4:1 CR, ported head, and a cam in a L28? Very minimal if not dyno tuned. If tuned right, then expect to gain in the neighborhood of 6hp compared with a stock manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted December 1, 2010 Author Share Posted December 1, 2010 Winter sucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 How are you planning on fixing your rocker? I've got similar rust that definitely needs to be fixed, but isn't enough to justify a new rocker IMO. I'm not really sure about just cutting out the rust and welding in new metal either since the rocker is such an integral part of the car's structure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted December 1, 2010 Author Share Posted December 1, 2010 How are you planning on fixing your rocker? I've got similar rust that definitely needs to be fixed, but isn't enough to justify a new rocker IMO. I'm not really sure about just cutting out the rust and welding in new metal either since the rocker is such an integral part of the car's structure. Yeah, I'm probably going to buy new rockers, but you'll be fine with cutting out the rust and welding in new metal, it'll definitely be stronger than your rusted part. We did it one a couple Z31s, was solid enough to lift the car from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 (edited) Its been waaay too long since I updated this...but, the truth here is...its been a looonnng time since I actually worked on this car. From the past 2 weeks, when I began work on it agian, heres what has been accomplished: Got the L26 pulled. I got the E88 head off to the machine shop for an estimate on getting it decked, a valve job done, and basically just rebuilt...also seeing about getting newer style valve guides put in it so its compatible with unleaded fuel, is this doable? We'll see... WTF, somebody stole my drivers floor! I picked up some fiberglass fenders for $80 for the pair. With them I got rusted stock headlight buckets, and lower valance things....also got a set of good turn signals which are worth a decent amount, so it was completely worth the $80...LOL New floor is going in TODAY! Passenger side will be next week. Edited June 30, 2011 by michaelp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 Currently the floor pan is just set in there. Its getting welded in tonight after we do a bit of grinding/sand blasting to ensure all the rust is gone from around it. Going to need to extend it a bit, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.