LS/T56/240z Project Mentor Wanted

[RebekahsZ]

Send me a text to 256-366-4685 and I will text the number to you and send you pics of how I modified the wrenches. The handle on them is only 5" long and we are supposed to put 89-100 pounds torque on them.

[RebekahsZ]

Sent pics to your email. I would also like another wrench and weld a 1/2" socket to it do I can put a torque wrench on it. I have had a lot of trouble with my rear gland nuts loosening. The handles I made are only a foot long so I can use them inside the fender. I would like to be sure I torque them well enough when out of the car. Starting on this this week.

[RebekahsZ]

Have both rear koni shocks in the strut tubes and torqued with the gland nut. Those spanner wrenches were the ticket- thanks johnc! Working now to create a slot in the top of the strut tower for the koni adjuster to poke thru. Also drilling an extra set of holes for the DP camber plate to bolt into. Hoping to change the rear camber adjusting process from a 2-man, 1-hour job to a 1-man, 15-minute job. Also cutting out a portion of the inner fender to give me more room for my hand up inside the strut tower. Photos when time allows.

[RebekahsZ]

Yesterday, I got up early and drove over to Memphis and met with Z-Enthusiast, a new member who just bought Clay's wheel-standing 280z out of the Chattanooga/North Georgia area.  Took a look at the location of the battery disconnect switch and decided which switch to buy from looking at his method.  Bought the used drag radials and rear wheels (since Z-Enthusiast is going back to IRS from the 9-inch), and the front wheels and front runners.  Kept the front wheels and tires (my tires are getting worn) and traded the rear wheels and tires for some 15X8 5.5BS Weld draglites and some 28X10.5X15 MT ET Drags.  I spent a little money in the process, but it was good to save a little by going with used parts and having something to trade off.  I basically got everything for about 50% off new prices.  The slicks look basically new; the Welds are pretty beaten up, but I'll be running 10# of air in them, so I'm not sure how important it is to have a round rim(?).  Today's goal is to get the wheels drilled for tubes and bead screws, then to finish up the spacer/adapters with new studs.  Did I mention that compared to 26X9X15 slicks, 28X10.5X15 slicks are MASSIVE?  If they are just absolutely too big, my next option to getting better gearing is to install a 3.36 R200.  SunnyZ fit them, but he had to move his rear wheels back an inch in the wheelwell.  My plan is to trim the forward edge of the fender sheetmetal when I do the flares.  Just ordered my battery disconnect switch from a boat company (the taillight surround panel makes the rear of the Z thick like a boat transom).  Feelin' the domino effect big time.

[RebekahsZ]

Got my new/used draglites prepped for tire mounting (cleaning, de-burring, drilling for rim screws and drilling the valve stem hole for tubes), but got to tire shop after they were closed.  Finished wheel spacers.  Put bolts/studs in DP camber plates to try to make camber changes from drag to autocross a 1-man job.  Photos show locations for stock, positive and negative camber locations.  Won't know how well this works till I get my alignment in the Spring.  Plan is to get it aligned for autocross settings, then the drag setting is just a matter of what I get - is what I get.  I just want the car to squat to zero camber, which means I gotta start with some static positive.  It is a warm day, so I hope to get all the trimmed metal painted today, so I can go back to my brakes and finish that up before moving to the front shocks.  I'm thinking about changing my front outer tie-rods to the kind sold by ZCC-JDM.  May also go to shortened steering knuckles while I'm at it-that way my Spring alignment knocks all these changes out at once.  But, that might be too many "while I'm at its" for one off-season.

[RebekahsZ]

More progress.  All four konis in and suspension reassembled, stub axle nuts retorqued.  Next is to make a flex line bracket for the staging brakes and get that plumbed up-hope to be done with that by NEXT Monday.  Only 3 months until the tracks get opened back up.  Next step is the SFI bellhousing.  Will probably do some more planning/cutting for the fender flares while waiting for it to arrive (waiting 'till payday to order bellhousing).  The 28X10.5 slicks are huge and will require some work with a saw to the quarter panel.  Rear BAMF flares on-hand but need a lot of fitting due to major bondo in quarter panels.  The BAMF flares look wide enough that I may have room to go all the way to 15X10s or more-won't know until it is on the floor and aligned. Just noticed how many times I said "next."  Only 3 months 'till racing season re-opens-gotta get moving!

 

Rebekah is home from Auburn and we changed her fanbelt together.  Daddy was in heaven.

Edited December 30, 2013 by RebekahsZ

[RebekahsZ]

Quick Time bellhousing order got messed up. Trying to get it with the inspection window modification. Waiting for refund to hit before trying it again. Hoping to do all the underside mods before moving into the cockpit, but may strip out the seats and rollbar while I'm waiting. I bet I have to wait 2-3weeks.

[RebekahsZ]

Brakes totally done and bled (at least until I find a leak and have to redo something). Put 26" slicks on back with camber all in to be sure they fit. Ride height in rear is too low. The konis have less extension than the tokicos do I switched to a shorter spring and tightened it up by hand. Will try to work on getting ride height back where it is supposed to be. Will put longer springs back on and order Torrington bearings and a spanner wrench to jack in a bunch of preload to try to get things leveled back up(ass is dragging). Went ahead and reinstalled driveshaft and exhaust. The car is whole again but the alignment is pretty messed up. No point in correcting that until ride height is established.

[EastTnZ]

Those brakes look awesome! And those new slicks are massive! I couldn't bring myself to cutting up my rear quarters just yet for Rota's but I'd probably make an exception for drag radials and flares lol! keep up the good work, it looks great and take a pic of the roll cage installed in front of it and from behind it before you take it out

[RebekahsZ]

Hoping to get the roll bar photos and send them to your phone tonight before I hit the sack.  May want to put your phone on silent so the phone doesn't wake you if I get to it super late.  Very mixed emotions about cutting....I'm just so sick of how hard it is to fit tires.  It's just that track conditions have to be PERFECT to avoid spinning, and they are only rarely perfect.  I'm trying to bracket race against automatics.  If I don't spin, the car runs my index (6.96 to about 7.11).  If it spins, who knows what it will run?!! (from about 7.08 to 7.35)  I feel kind of damned either way.  If the car is running 7.00-ish, I can always race the end of the track-I've won a few heats by beating the other car and braking to avoid breaking out.  I know I'm gonna regret it just as soon as I break paint, but it is so maddening trying to fit tires.  When you come down, try to budget some time and I'll let you test fit several kinds of wheels and tires.  My rota 16x8s with 245/45/16 A6 or R6 fit great without flares if I slam camber in.  But, 245 ain't cutting it.  Next increase in width is the 275, and it is a HUGE increase (the 255/50/15 is really just a TALLER tire than the 245-not really any wider).  No way 275s will fit with stock fenders.  So there you have it-gotta cut!

[EastTnZ]

Yeah my 225/50/16's radials are new & horrible width wise but even ~320hp I can't get traction until 3rd gear after I let out some. I'm on 16x8's right now. Definently need wider for sure. I won't have the z coming down in a few weeks but will the next time I will. How much will you have to cutout in front of the rear tires for tire expansion?

[RebekahsZ]

I'm hoping to get my seats out of the car this weekend. Be sure to bring a pickup or something when you come do you can take the bar home. If you just came down in the z when you are ready, we could install it in your car together. It would be a snap with two guys working on it. I can stash it for a bit if you want. Whatever works.

[EastTnZ]

Thanks I'll consider it and either option is good for me. It would be smarter to just drive down to get it in the car and try on tires and wheels. We'll talk before I head out to Murfreesboro and thanks again!

[socorob]

Where do you find really wide good tires? In the direzzas or rivals I can only find a 255. Depending on how wide a wheel you run, it will end up being an inch or less wider(10mm) than the 245s. I would like a 275-285 on the back but cant seem to find them in the grippier tires.

[RebekahsZ]

It's nice to have some interaction on this thread. Tires and z cars have a bad relationship. There's just so little space inside the fenders. One solution is to jack your car up. I have a buddy I drag race with who can fit 10" wide slicks under his stock z-they just hang out the side. If you look at launch photos, he's rubbing the fender arch, but there are never any marks on the tire. I'm lowered and therein is the rub (pun). I can only run an 8.5" slick. If you want to save your axles run 8.5" bias ply slicks. If you want to challenge your axles, run 235/60/15 MT drag radials. By running a slick or drag radial the compound will give you more traction than any other tire (but you can still spin them). For wider tires than 225s and the occasional 245 available, you pretty much gotta go to a race tire. Hoosier makes a 275-16 in a R6. Road race tires make good lateral traction but they are nothing special for launching. The largest Hoosier you are gonna fit is a 225 of you have stock fenders even with coilovers. So, here's how I handle tires on this car: I had a little reality check. I drive slow on the street. I consider this car kind of like a loaded gun. I shoot it at the track, but on the street, I try to conceal it and blend in. My street tires are the cheapest 235/60/15s I can find. Used would be good but the used tire places, like the junkyards, are charging the same for used as for new. I use my street tires to get to work when it is sunny or to go to cruise-ins or on country drives with the local club. Then I swap to the slicks for the strip and autocross. 435# of torque with 1200# of weight is always gonna be able to spin the wheels pretty much at-will regardless of how much tire you put on it. At autocross with 245 race rubber I have to baby it off the starting line. I spin at the drag strip unless they put TONS of super glue down. Now, that Durezza (sp) is a GREAT tire. I got smoked by a L28 powered 240z last year that was piloted by a good driver who had attended every race for a year (I manage to attend maybe five events in a good year). He did it by being a better driver in an under powered car with Hawk HP-plus pads and Durezzas "Star Specs". If you want to stay with the 16" wheels, those are the tires I would get. Great all-around tire for the money.

[RebekahsZ]

Finished the koni install today, but hit a snag: one of the adjusters won't budge.  Didn't check it before I installed it-damn!  Took car for a test drive and the new AZC brakes ROCK.  It was great to drive a car that stopped at least as well as my wife's minivan.  Did a big, smoky burnout for a buddy. The hydraulic hand brake locks the rear wheels WITH SLICKS!  Didn't work on prop valve adjustment since I had "big-n-littles" on.  Will do that with autocross tires after an alignment (months away).  Got order for bell housing sorted out and it is now on order direct from Quick Time via Jegs.  Installed the switch portion of the rear master electrical shutoff switch-wiring will wait until roll bar and flares are done.  Gave her a bath to remove some iron filings from the paint before I lean against it and totally ruin the paint.  Pulling seats today and rollbar tomorrow-getting closer to 6-pt roll bar install.  Found a forum member nearby to take old roll bar off my hands.  Was hoping to have a forum member from Mobile over for a visit, but the funeral that brought him into town was more involved than anticipated and he decided to spend more time with family and let the z-car stuff wait (I just don't get some people)!  I'm joking-would have done the same thing.  Maybe next time.

Edited January 11, 2014 by RebekahsZ

[RebekahsZ]

Yesterday, I got the koni adjuster un-stuck.  Got call from Jegs tonight: the bellhousing order is messed up again-cancelled order-so frustrated.  Will try to order direct from Quick Time tomorrow (my wife is gonna KILL me).  It's the inspection window modification that keeps goofing up the order.  Ordered one Kirkey Intermediate Road Race seat in the 17" width with cover, mounting brackets and an AutoPower adjustable seat back brace specifically for rollbar mock-up.  NHRA has no specific seat spec, autocross doesn't care, track day has no spec, but I don't want to be flopping around going around a sweeper; ECTA only requires that it be a metal racing seat.  Considered a containment seat for safety, but there appears to be zero rear visibility with those, so I called the Intermediate RR seat "good enough" - the best compromise. Going with black covers-the old red ones fade so fast and show every little speck of dirt.  Called the rollbar builder and got on his list for as soon after Feb 1 as he can get started.  Can work on plastic interior panels and fitting flares in the meantime.  Lower radiator hose seems to be leaking (again).  I have SO much still to do before spring.

[PLATA]

Good thread, lots of info      

[RebekahsZ]

Un-fish scaled the interior plastic pieces.  Will likely only run the very rear three plastic pieces.  I test fit and trimmed away all the places that make them hard to install and remove (basically notched the hell out of them so I don't have to remove the hatch struts to install them).  I think the forward three pieces will interfere with the cage, but they are all ready just the same, although it would be nice to have a dome light again someday.  Started working on the stock adjustable seat rails.  Tired of the contortion it requires to get the rear 2 seat mount nuts on, so I drilled a hole under them so I can tighten them from under the car.  It was SO much easier to install the seat rails after that simple mod-question is: how much water is going to come up thru those holes-gotta find some 3/4" plugs.

[RebekahsZ]

Working on next fabrication challenge while waiting in line for the cage and waiting for the next seat to arrive for trial fitting.

 

Started marking up for rear flares (scared to death to put a saw to my quarters).  There seems to be a lot of variance on WHERE to mount ZG flares.  Went thru the big fender flare thread, and nobody showed any pictures of HOW they measured their fenders, and couldn't find consensus on how high to mount them.  Seems there are two camps on the forum: custom and race.  Found pictures of my favorite racer's flare jobs and I'm trying to copy them, as the purpose for flaring is to gain clearance for race rubber.  The only consistent landmark to measure from is the belt-line at the top of the fender arch-for once in my life I wish my car had a square corner somewhere to measure from, but alas, it doesn't.

 

Just added a  photo MiKelly sent me with a tape measuring down from the top of the fender to the top of the flare.

Edited January 26, 2014 by RebekahsZ