RebekahsZ Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 Tach, shift light and line lock wired. Little red indicator light lets me know line lock is engaged; green thing between speedo and tach is shift light. Next is speedo. Anybody know, off hand, what thread pitch the tach retaining nuts are? I seem to have lost mine...I can trial and error if nobody knows. Still gotta figure out where those 4 bulbs in the back of the tach go....Does a 240z have a check engine light? - I'm wondering if I should wire the "malfunction" wire from the PCM - where did (or didn't) you guys wire that with the stock gauges? I may add pictures tomorrow, but other than the shift light and my "inside accessory fuse block" there is not much to show. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Keith, I wired my check engine light to the old choke [yellow] light in the center console and used the old seat belt light [red-next to the choke light] for the parking brake indicator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 Got shift light working. Brand is "Raptor." I chose it because it is small, has a really simple LSx wiring plan and install plan and easy to adjust. Chose green color because green means GO! Mounts with one screw. Wires to the brown/orange tach output wire from the PCM; I mated it directly to the back of the JCI-modified stock 240z tach. Then I sent a 12V wire and ground to my fuse new inside fuse block with 5A fuse. No problems with the tach - it seems to match what the shift light is saying. With low diff gearing and close-ratio T56, I'm gonna be one slap shiftin' fool. There is so little rpm drop between gears that the shift light comes right back on right after the previous gear change and it is time to shift again. My buddy made a pretty good youtube video of car running - closes thing to being there. Shift light wasn't initially working because I had dip-switches set up incorrectly. Re-read instructions and it was fixed in a minute. Instructions were well written, I'm just a little stupid. IMG_0247.MOV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 7, 2012 Author Share Posted April 7, 2012 Took the car to a show today. The only imports were a slammed VW and me. I'm glad I got my shift light - I was hitting the rev limiter all the time. I was doing a smokey burn out and hit 7 grand before I knew it. According to the ECM-controlled Raptor shift light, the JCI converted tach is pretty accurate; I may need to raise it in my field of view up near the base of the windshield this car winds up SO quick. Had an interesting experience with the adjustable TC rods I have installed, when the tire strikes them, it rotates them, which lengthens them and increases caster. So, I had plenty of fender clearance when I left this morning, but as I turned the cars steering all the way to the lock cruising around in the car shop parking lot, the tire would hit the TC rod and lengthen it until eventually, my tire rubbed my airdam. It was all low-speed stuff so no harm was done. I will have to fabricate some sort of steering linkage stop to keep the tire from hitting the TC rod when I turn the car to full lock. Goal today is to get some new nuts to hold in my tach, get the light bulbs back into it and wire up my speedometer. I may stay up late and tear into my Z31 axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 (edited) Keith, do you need the stock nuts that hold the tach in? If so, I may have them in my 'stash'. Edited April 7, 2012 by 1 tuff z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 7, 2012 Author Share Posted April 7, 2012 Thanks. Just got back from hardware store. Bought 5mm 0.80 pitch wingnuts. Just finished tach 10 minutes ago. I am really pleased with how well the tach works. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 7, 2012 Author Share Posted April 7, 2012 (edited) While at hardware store all the store attendants (it is an old school hardware store) came out to see the car they have been supplying odd metric hardware for. I gave them a nice smokey line-locked 2nd gear burnout. I was a block away before I could see the storefront behind me. Edited April 7, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 Speedometer and Cable-X wired, but not tested. Cleaned fuel fiter screen (that was my 3rd tank after the build got running): less trash, but still a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Holy hell man! That car is LOUD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfritts911 Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Not sure if I've posted in your thread yet, but that car is gorgeous and seems like it runs as good as it looks! What color of blue is that? Thats similar to what I am thinking about going, or a burnt orange color. We definitely gotta meet up when you come to Arkansas. -Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 (edited) SUNNY, you are going to be pretty loud too with the mufflers you have selected. Some of that sound is wind noise (windows down), but I have no carpet (never will) and no interior besides door panels. Plus, the 3' straight pipes exit right under the window. The video has some sort of audio trouble, there is reverbe on my voice, but you can talk in the car easily when there is no load on the motor just cruising around. I even fixed my radio so I can listen to it. I do plan to muffle it once the R200 diff is installed. Going out in a minute to start rebuilding axles. Speedometer doesn't work. Gonna check connections and grounds, then email JCI to see how (if) they pre-configure the dip switches before they send it out. Will, the color is 1991-ish Dodge Viper coupe "banzai blue." White stripes are "wimbleton white," all PPG basecoat/clearcoat. It was painted in about 1994 and looks much better in pictures than in person - lots of chips and cracks. I've either waxed it once or never. I'm a big fan of silver or grey on a z-car. I'm serious cop-bait. Today's progress: I still don't have the Cable X working. Looks like I may have to pull the cover and try to do the "field test" that the instruction describe. If anybody has any tips, lay them on me. Finished up basic metal work for faux intake, fabricated break-away torque checking kit for R200 diffs (I have a 3.90 CLSD on hand, a 3.70 CLSD due in the mail this week, and sale is pending on a 3.54 VLSD from another forum member. Cleaned up garage and got one Z31 CV Axle in the vice, but that is all the further I got. Edited April 9, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 First trip to local 1/8-mile drag strip tonight-first Thursday night this month without rain. Didn't get finished with supper until late and only got 3 runs before they closed down. Street tires pumped up to 30 psi to keep from breaking the 3.90 STi R180. I now have 2 CLSD R200s (3.90, 3.70) on work bench, waiting for clutches from Savage and waiting for a 3.54 VLSD R200-should ship out to me tomorrow. Had to re-learn how to put car on tailer. Trailered down (just in case I broke something bad). Driving impression: Scary. Old habits die hard, so I pulled up to the staging lane, put it in 2nd gear, automatically rev'd to 5000 like I used to with the L24, green light-let out clutch and got a close up view of the gaurd rail! About wet my pants! After I pulled my act together, I nursed it down the lane for a 9.79/70mph-still faster than the car was with the L24. Second run, left line at about 1500rpm, still breaking traction at will, 9.09/77mph. Third run, left at 1500-ish working hard to get traction and not get sideways 8.65/82mph. Reaction times and 60's-terrible. Shift light kept me off rev limiter. NEVER got anywhere close to full throttle. I am definitely not used to having to "drive" the car so much - welcome to the big leagues! Lots to learn. Found a lower radiator hose leak while loading back up onto trailer. Eager to get R200 in, mount my slicks and get my clutch controlled line lock release/2 step built. Then start practicing and bring down times. Unloaded, all back in garage, radiator hose fixed and ready to drive to work in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 Savage says the extra CLSD clutches are in the mail. So, I cleared off a section of my work bench and took inventory. I now have 3.90 CLSD, 3.70 CLSD and a 3.54 open version of the 1987/1988 turbo R200, oh, and a sore back. I see no wear on the ring gears of the 3.90 and 3.70; the 3.54 shows a little ring gear wear. A fourth R200, Shiro VLSD converted to 3.54 with Shiro CV axles should arrive in the next week or two. There is some visible variation between the exterior of each case. The rear cover flange is the same between the CLSDs, but the output seal castings on the 3.90 are different from the 3.70 and 3.54. A second set of JMortensen's shortened axle shafts are on order. If anybody has a favorite source for diff seals, please make a recommendation. I haven't checked anywhere yet. Gonna start with the 3.90 CLSD and try to swap that carrier into the open 3.54 diff. I have seen a thread somewhere on the drivetrain forum that describes how to do this swap in pretty good detail. I hope to have a low-miles, "lightly used" Sti R180 CLSD for sale along with Wolf Creek axles before May. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfritts911 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 You will love the 3.90s. I had 4.10s in my Firebird and loved them, but if I had to pick another gear I would have went with a 3.9x ratio. The 4.10s made the Firebird insane on the street, and really helped launching at the strip. With the steeper gear you don't have to actually try to launch as much, I would just roll out off idle pretty much and it climbed revs so fast. Useful when you have crap tires. As for the diff seals I ordered some Timken side seals from RockAuto for a good price, sure they have the pinion seals also. Also if you google there are always 5% off codes floating around. You have a lot left in the car, just need some more seat time. P.S. Next time get some videos at the track! -Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 (edited) Finally made a burn-out video. Filming is my friend Whit Lyles, a streetrod fabricator who modified my fuel tank. I never knew he had such an evil laugh. I'm the one with the candy-store grin on my face. Second gear. RPM was monitored with my shift light which was set to 5,500rpm. Turn your volume all the way UP. IMG_0317.MOV Edited April 20, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Nice! Do more, do more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 Nice, that thing sounds mean! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 21, 2012 Author Share Posted April 21, 2012 Thanks! I think it sounds like a farm truck until you get it up to about 4,000rpms and is sweet music at 6,000. I wish I had room for a little balance tube before the dump tube in order to get more sound pulses per dump tube - I think that would make it sound better. Everything inside the motor is stock 2006 GTO. I'm looking forward to getting the exhaust done. I plan to use electric exhaust cutouts just for fun, but a muffler is a must - I am huge cop bait. If anybody has a recommendation for a very compact muffler that is really quiet I would be interested. Plan now is for a straight thru 12" long 3" in and out Borla XR-1 in the stock location. It will be compact, but probably pretty loud. The car is just so "in your face" it is kind of a spectacle in traffic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 28, 2012 Author Share Posted April 28, 2012 One of my best friends was diagnosed with prostate cancer this week and has surgery on Monday. We're going to a car show in Athens, Alabama this morning for a last "hoorah" before he's off-line for a few weeks. I see a stock 240z there every year; hoping to get a parking spot next to him. We'll see what the reaction to the stacks is. Got all my parts for the R200 swap - gonna go hard on it over the next 2 weekends and see if I can get it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 You'll like that borla muffler. I have a buddy that has one on a 5.3 colorado here in town. Its quite quiet, even with headers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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