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LS/T56/240z Project Mentor Wanted


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A good way is to remove your spring, mount your largest tire, put it at full compression and give yourself something like an inch around the circumference of the tire. You may not be able to copy anyones exactly because if they have adjustable rear suspension their tire may be more or less centered in the wheel well than yours. When you get the first side cut, tape a large sheet of paper over the rear fender, trace the body lines and fender opening onto it, cut it out on those lines, tape it on the other side of the car and you will have the opening in the exact same place.

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Good idea, but a 28" tall, 10.5" wide slick doesn't fit inside the fender for a spring compression test.  As my dad used to say, it's 10 pounds of stuff in a 5 pound bag.  My issue is that I'm trying to split the difference between fitting the slick and not looking like a 4X4 when running street tires.  I'm not sure it can be avoided.

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Here's where I am at 1am.  Dang, these flares are HUGE!  Kind of overkill.  They seem to be too high, but I've been warned by several guys that if I plan to drive it hard, hang 'em high, so I did.  Still have to do all the cutting and welding - will call cage builder and see where he is on things.  If there is time, I may try to get this to my body man this week to do the metal work on the flares, then install my rivet nuts and start playing with ride height.  Placement right now is just for measurement purposes, but I'm afraid there is no going back.  I did not have to trim these Z-Force Productions BAMF flares any at all.

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Edited by RebekahsZ
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I've never done a flare install, but wouldn't it make sense to make the lip of the flare level with the original lips? Yours are definitely too high IMO. Most flare installs seem to have the lowest part of the flare just touching the dogleg. It looks like you might need to rotate them forward a little bit - the front of the flare looks too high, but the rear looks fine.

 

BTW, how does your car ride on that shock/spring combo you have in your signature? Too harsh for a street car?

Edited by rturbo 930
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It all depends on who you ask.  The custom guys like the flares low, the racers like them high (the whole point is to avoid rubbing tire).  I must admit, I also am nervous about them being so high-there are no threads that show people's measurements well, so I did everything by blowing up pictures, and getting advice from johnc's prior posts, MiKelly, and Sunny Z.  Plus, I'm going to look at some non-BAMF flares before I cut.  The BAMF flare is super wide and will take some getting used to.  Hopefully, when I chop out the redundant metal and drop the ride height a little, it won't look so jacked up.  I am going to have a portion of my dogleg removed for tire clearance.

 

I love my spring rate-wouldn't change it.

Edited by RebekahsZ
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A little more mock up of flares.  I'm just scared to take a saw to my baby.  I think it is going to be great with slicks, but will look like a log truck with any tire with small sidewalls.  Oh well, that's the cost of a multi-purpose sports car!  I ordered some MSA fiberglass flares to do a test fit of them (Justin at ZForceProductions says the screw/bolt pattern is the same).  I don't really need the BAMF flares with my current tires and the car looks kind of silly from the back with them on.  Will put off cutting until I see how standard flares will fit.  Ordering hood pin kits from Speedwaymotors.com while waiting on the seat and flares.

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What rear lower control arms do you have? The TTT ones allow you to move the wheel back in the well so its more centered. I think I was able to move mine maybe 1/2" back. i think Sunny had his custom made ao his is further back, so yours wont be able to look exactly like his.

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The 26X10 tires hang out the side about an inch and a half.  You have to run a stock ride-height and just let them hang out.

 

The rear control arms are an old set of Modern Motorsports.  I'm tired of working on suspension-I'm gonna make what I have work.

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Installed shorter velocity stacks to raise the rpm of my peak power-dyno session pending :icon7:.  Getting used to those huge flares.  Just got word that MSA regular flares are on back order 3-5 weeks.  Will call tomorrow to confirm that :icon11:.  Tapping my foot awaiting parts.....

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Edited by RebekahsZ
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Kirkey Intermediate Road Race seat arrived today.  I feel like Goldilocks:  the 17" seat was too loose even with the cover on.  The 15" is too tight even without a cover.  Sooooo, I just ordered a 16" from (Summit had them in stock, but had no covers in stock) and a cover for it (Jegs had covers but no seats).  This weekend's project is to get a seat mounted on the adjustable rails.  I think the 16" is gonna be the ticket.  If so, I'll send the darn 15" back to Jegs.  After talking to MiKelly, if the shoulder wings are too wide, it will be time to bend them in with pressure and a dead-blow hammer.  It sucks to be so picky on seat fitment, but I want to be able to autocross and road race as well as hit the road for a cross-country cruise or do Drag Week.  Time's a tickin'.

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Kirkey Intermediate Road Race seat arrived today.  I feel like Goldilocks:  the 17" seat was too loose even with the cover on.  The 15" is too tight even without a cover.  Sooooo, I just ordered a 16" from (Summit had them in stock, but had no covers in stock) and a cover for it (Jegs had covers but no seats).  This weekend's project is to get a seat mounted on the adjustable rails.  I think the 16" is gonna be the ticket.  If so, I'll send the darn 15" back to Jegs.  After talking to MiKelly, if the shoulder wings are too wide, it will be time to bend them in with pressure and a dead-blow hammer.  It sucks to be so picky on seat fitment, but I want to be able to autocross and road race as well as hit the road for a cross-country cruise or do Drag Week.  Time's a tickin'.

Keith:

 

What series of Kirkey seats did you receive?  I have to do the VERY same as I want to road race my 240Z also.   I am very interested in your installation of these seats especially the adjustable rails.  Please advise.  Thanks.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Delivered my car to roll bar fabricator yesterday. Suffering major separation anxiety......

 

Here are the "final" plans I am dropping off to the fabricator tomorrow.  Our discussions at drop-off suggested that I might want to be more specific.  I know my fabricator can do the job, it's just his first time with a Datsun and really his first time with a car this slow.  He mostly works on 4 and 5-second 1/8'-mile cars.  So, this is kind of a minimal job for him.  I just hope it pricks his interest and is fun for him.

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Edited by RebekahsZ
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  • 2 weeks later...

Went by fabricator to check progress on rollbar. He was welding on it as I drive up unannounced. Plates are in for the bottom of the main hoop and he was welding the plates to cap the strut towers. Main hoop is bent but he wants to put an extra bend in it to go around the inner fenders tighter and the mandrel-thingie that he uses is broken. Says replacement should be in on Monday. I may go by and get car for the weekend if he's done all he can. There is an autocross on Huntsville that I may try to squeeze in. If I hustle, I may be able to get car back together and on trailer tomorrow to be ready to go. As usual it will be a ball-buster. Went by the guy who I will use to open up fenders-there's room in his shop for my car, so car will go straight from rollbar shop to his place. I'm so behind schedule!!!

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