S50B32 Euro M Powered 240

[katokid]

I’ve pulled the engine from the car as my next priority is to get it running to confirm condition of the engine and also to prove to myself that the key, EWS II (security system) and ECU are “aligned†and the engine will actually start, if they aren’t I’m in a bit of strife!

 

As I’ve touched on before the later Evo E36 M3 uses a pretty trick semi dry sump set up that splits the sump into two levels and has a scavenge pump at the front of the sump which delivers oil to the lower rear sump reservoir. Unfortunately I cant use this set up as the sump design is too deep at the front and will interfere with the steering rack so I’m forced to use the earlier M3 sump with wings and baffles and standard M50 oil pump and pick up.

 

 

The front scavenge return line and pick up tube of the later M3 set up is secured by two brackets mounted to #3 and #5 main bearing caps, these need to be removed and replaced with a single bracket on #5 main cap to suit the M50 pump and pick up.

 

 

I removed the main bolts and pulled the #3 and #5 caps to check out the bearings and main journals. I’ve always been a bit disillusioned with how dirty the engine is both externally and internally and suspected that the wrecker wasn’t honest with the mileage but was pleasantly surprised by how good the bearings looked, a bit of polishing in one area but otherwise looked very good. I’m sure the dirty engine exterior is due to the salted roads in the UK and I’m praying the dirty internals are due to short runs, cold temps, poor oil and or maintenance schedule. So everything went back together with new bracket on #5, M50 oil pump but with larger S50 pump drive gear, windage tray from the S50B30 (later B32 doesn’t use one due to the semi dry sump design) and the earlier M3 sump.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plan is to build a test stand with a proper cooling system and exhaust so I can run the engine to get a feel for how good a nick its in. Wet and dry comp test and listening and observing will give me a pretty solid idea of how good, or not it is.

If the engine comes up alright it will go back on the engine stand so I can remove all the corroded alloy parts for refurbishment and will replace front and rear main seals and most gaskets and paint it. I’ve already got a set of ARP rod bolts and will replace big end bearings at the same time, no point doing this now as if the engine needs serious work I’ve just wasted $160 worth of rod bolts.

[katokid]

Ive finished the engine test stand, a length of 50 x 50 x 2, 4 caster wheels and a couple of hours got the basic frame finished. Used the original M3 front crossmember and mounts cos I had them and it looked easier than any other way.

 

Now comes crunch time ..... I need to set up cooling system, gauges and control panel, fuel system and exhaust so I will be buying radiator that will be used in the actual car, same with gauges and fuel pump. Will jury rig a full exhaust system as I want to be able to hear any noises from the engine and particularly the problematic Vanos system.

 

I had to build a frame on the test stand to replicate the firewall mounting of the main engine harness that runs over the back of the cylinder head so decided to extend this and make it a dual purpose work table as well as somewhere to mount all the components.

 

 

The BMW design has a pretty cool nearly self contained main engine harness that includes the ECU, some relays, O2 sensors etc all this interfaces with the body via a single 25 pin connector, means they build one body loom for most of their models and each differnet engine just plugs in.

 

The other element is the security system which many have tried but no one has succeeded in bypassing. The security system called EWS II is part of the body but still sends and receives inputs through to the ECU via the the 25 pin plug called the X 20 connector. Basically the security system sends code between the EWS box and the key via a transmit/receive module and then to the ECU . Each time the car is started it sends new code to and from each component. It is imperative that you have the "aligned" key, EWS module and ECU from the same car otherwise the engine wont run. They can for differnet reasons become "unaligned" which is a major drama to fix as it entails taking the vehicle to a BMW dealer for them to re align the system. Imagine a 240Z plugged into the computer at a BMW dealer!!!!

 

Its taken a lot of work and effort on the interweb to understand the system and confirm the wiring on the factory diagrams which (for me ) are a nightmare to read. You should see the size and weight of the BMW body harness...its massive. Ive had some great help from a guy on a BMW forum in the UK but the wiring is done......its a bit rudimentary but will suffice for the purpose, the in car installation will be much tidier.

 

I could start it now if I had all the other bits I need! Should have planned ahead better as I'm still waiting on:

Speedhut gauges

Walbro GSS340 pump

Radiator

 

My brother has donated his old exhaust off his SS Commondore to be used on the test stand, will cut and shut to suit my needs. Need to build a fuel tank (20 litre oil drum), plumb the fuel feed and return hoses. Install radiator, fans and hoses. Should see it ready to run.

 

 

 

[katokid]

Momentous occasion for yours truly..... and I was inspired enough to post my first YouTube video.

 

To say I was relieved when it started straight away is a massive understatement. Bit of pain along the way but lots of win in the end!

 

Watch all about it...

 

[RTz]

I'm not sure you're taking this project serious enough

 

 

 

Congrats on the start up!

[philom5]

Just watched the video. Amazing ! Lot's a detail work for a temporary engine test stand. I suppose you do not have a job or your wife (and dog) allow you to hang out in the garage to all hours of the night !

 

Great job.

 

Phil.

___________

88M5

Soon to have a Z

[katokid]

Some how 18 months have gone by!

 

After getting the engine running on the test stand I wanted to check for any codes it was throwing. I used a Peake tool and it was throwing the following codes:

 

A2 Synchronisation Cam Sensor

OA Output Camshaft Sensor

 

It was throwing other codes but that was to be expcted as it wasnt seeing lots of body related inputs but that was inconsequential.

 

I figured the two codes are related as the ECU needs to know positions of both cams relative to the crank at all times, logic being that if one sensor is crook it will spit that code as well as cause the lack of crank/cam sync. So looks like Ive got a crook cam position sensor...but which one? there is no way of testing the actual sensors without going on the you beaut diagnostic computer at a dealer so I was looking at replacing both sensors. Took a month (they were ex the fatherland) but Pelican Parts came through with 2 x genuine BMW cam position sensors @ $97.00 each plus freight, to my door was $220 vs $800 from the local stealer. Should be a law against that obscene mark up!

 

What I thought would only take a few minutes took an hour as I had to pull the rocker cover to get access to the Allen head bolt for the inlet sensor and even then it needed a cut down Allen key and a bit of patience to get it done.

 

 

Gave it another run with the Peake tool and all was good, no more codes of any consequence!

 

Meanwhile, a member on the viczcar forum had some wheels for sale. Hadnt seen these before but fell in love when I saw his add. I want old skool but tuff and reckon these fit the bill perfectly.

 

 

Ron provided the drawings and a keen Z enthusiast who owns an engineering shop soon had this whipped up.

 

 

I was contemplating using the M3 diff as the ECU needs the road speed signal from the sensor on the rear diff cover which is sent to the dash (for the speedo signal) before it is modified from a simple square wave to a signal that the ECU can use. If the ECU doesn't see this signal it goes into a limp mode with reduced RPM's, the signal is also the 155mph speed limiter. In the end I found a company in Belgium that makes a box that produces a synthetic signal for the ECU that also removes the speed limiter

http://www.kempower.be/Electronic%20...simulation.htm

The speed simulator isn't cheap but without a donor car and an oscilloscope there was no way for me to reproduce the modified signal and while I could make the BMW diff fit the cost of custom CV shafts and the extra weight and attention this would attract at Rego engineering time just wasn't worth it.

 

While all this was going on was doing a lot of rust repair work. Work that I felt competent enough to do anyway. The plan was always to have a panel shop do the final panel work, prep and paint so the next step was to get the whole shell blasted. I was promised by the blaster October 2011 which then was delayed to December and then into January of 2012. Finally it was done early Feb, I was pretty pissed off with the delays but the horror stories I have seen and heard about warped and damaged panels made me determined to wait as this blaster hed a great reputation. I was stoked with the job the blasters did, very very thorough and no damage to any panels. It was well worth the wait.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shell was shot with epoxy etch on the same afternoon after it was blasted.

 

Time went by and after a couple of months of no action at the panel shop I cracked it and read the riot act and pushed then to get into my car....they have a lot of cars in the shop and its only a two man show....Glen the beater and Allan the painter but that is testament to the quality of work they do.

 

As expected the blasting revealed some dreaded cancer that wasnt evident before hand....and thats why you do blast....so you really can see what you are working with. Blasting revealed that there was significant rust in the lips of both rear guards. There is a big chunky bead of seam sealer that the factory filled between the inner and outer guards all the way around the lip and this just collects moisture and has the obvious effect.

 

I talked with Glen about options and he was adamant that removing the rear quarters was the only way to tackle the repairs properly...rebuilding both the inner and outer guard lips. They have a matching numbers E38 Charger in the shop with the same issue and Glen showed me what they had done and I after seeing this I was convinced that this was the best route so ff they came......

 

 

 

And the roof skin for the same reason!

 

 

By now most of the repairs that Ive asked the panel shop to do are nearly completed and the rear quarters and roof skin were now ready to go back on but before they do the car went back to the blasters so all the newly exposed bits can be blasted.

 

Had to go to the panel shop, take the car off the rotisserie, put it on the trolley, put the car/trolley on the trailer, drive to the blaster (only 5 minutes away luckily), take the whole show off the trailer and stick it back on the rotisserie, have it blasted then repeat and return to panel shop! Phew!

 

Photos are after blasting back at the panel shop. As with their previous work the blasting was very thorough and top notch.

 

Blasted bits will be back in epoxy etch by now and then these areas will get shot with final colour before the panels go back on. Weld through primer will be used for the areas that need to be spotted back together. I keep trying to convince myself its all worth it.....I think it is.

 

 

 

 

 

So back to the BMW stuff...

 

The engine has been on the test stand for nearly a year, Ive run it a few times just for kicks and to keep it dry and lubed. One thing I hadn't done was check if the engine speed signal from the BMW ECU would drive the Speedhut tacho, turns out after selecting the correct pulse type it works fine. Pretty cool tacho....fully programable, recall, shift lights etc cant wait to drive it for real.

 

Next thing on the agenda: is to strip the engine, do big end bearings, ARP rod bolts, VAC oil pump drive, front and rear oil seals, CO2 blast all the discoloured aluminium housings including the sump, new gaskets where applicable, paint the block etc etc. To do this I had to remove the engine wiring harness, its a one piece pretty big bastard loom and took some doing to remove. Will be stripping out all the non required bits and also doing what's necessary to rewire to suit the Z battery location and to install the ECU inside the cabin as in the BMW the ECU sits in the engine bay.

 

I had a sudden attack of OCD and spent hours in the shed cleaning throttle bodies. Mine were pretty disgusting, plenty of built up crud and generally just looked less sexy than they deserved. Used a kero based solvent and brushes (mainly tooth brush) to do the cleaning, it was a PITA but worthwhile. Didn't want to use any aggressive chemicals as there are seals for the butterfly shafts and I didn't want to discolour the aluminium finish either.

 

 

 

 

OCD was still raging so I spent many hours degreasing and cleaning the engine. The exhaust side was pretty easy but the inlet side was a pain, plenty of rust and crap from the lovely salted snow and slush off the UK roads. Preped it as best I could then hit it with some matt black VHT. Came up really well.

 

 

 

As you can see the cast alloy sump looks like a POS. Its been hot tanked but didn't do much to get rid of the dark oxided/staining. I'm looking for the as new factory cast alloy finish and Ive done a fair bit of research. Dry ice blasting was a good initial choice but its too expensive so I'm going to give Hydrablasting a go

http://www.southernh...lasting.com.au/

.

 

Sump is now off and I pulled all the rod caps last night and all the big ends were showing some minor marks but #6 upper was the worst with a small section of the first layer starting to come off, nothing really serious and the crank was fine but reinforced that it was wise to check. The BMW fractured rods are the first time Ive had hands on experience with this design and they are freaky weird things!!! Looks just plain wrong but I understand the logic and benefits behind it.

 

 

End of a long post but this brings me up to date.

 

Cheers.

 

David .

Edited August 10, 2012 by katokid

[garvice]

Looking great David.

[katokid]

Big end bearings and ARP rod bolts are fitted.

 

BMW use colour coded bearing shells to get the clearance exactly right but they wanted $50 per half shell and they were ex Germany. Also I was doing the replacement with pistons still in the block as I don't have the special tools or the desire to remove the head so measuring and selecting colour coded shells was a no go.

 

I did lots of research and checked with BMW specialists in the US and Europe and found out that many re-brand and sell bearings under their own brand and turns out these are actually ACL Race Series bearings. They all (as expected) recommended them so I took the plunge and bought a set through Bursons. They come in STD, STD + .001 and two undersize so I just ordered a set of STD, for $176 if they didn't give me the clearances I want its not a big deal compared to the minimum $600 from BMW.

 

The old BMW bearings measured up with 1.5 thou clearance using plastigauge for all six, even the one with the top layer starting to come away..... you couldn't feel this with your finger nail so it looked worse than it was. Old bearings and bolts below.

 

 

The ACL's measured up at 2.0 thou across all six, a little more clearance but still well within the BMW spec which is 1.0 - 2.7 thou....got me stuffed why they have such a broad spec given they go to the trouble of coded shells?

 

 

I also bit the bullet and bought a rod stretch gauge, only a cheapie for $89 from VPW but the dial gauge spring wasn't strong enough to support its own weight so a couple of strategically placed rubber bands fixed that and it worked well after that. ARP quote 50ft/lb for these bolts but are adamant that stretch method is the way to go so it was interesting to see the variance in torque required to get the desired .0065 - .007 stretch. Lowest was 50 ft/lb and the highest was 62 ft/lb with most around 55 ft/lb.

 

 

 

It all turns nicely so that's a good thing.

 

Quarter panels and roof skin are about to go back on. They painted everything that had been exposed and blasted during the removal and used weld through primer in the required areas. Will hopefully have the car home again in a couple of weeks so the engineer can inspect all the mods and hopefully give the OK!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I had been looking at alternatives for cleaning/restoring the sump and oil filter housing as they were badly corroded from the salted roads in the UK. Research says that hydroblasting is the way to go to get an as new finish. Im blown away by the quailty of the finish, it actually looks better than new, nearly fake its that good.

 

Hyrdroblasting is like glass bead blasting but using water rather than air.

 

Cost is $1.00 per minute, both items ended up costing $150. Not cheap but I think well worth it for something that looked terrible before.

 

On the right is my old S50B32 sump for comparison.....the S50B30 sump was actually even worse beforehand.

 

 

 

The oil filter housing was just as bad.

 

 

 

Now that the bottom end is back together I could refit the windage tray that gave me a heart attack when I first started the engine on the test stand. This tray is from the S50B30 engine and the longer stroke on the B32 engine means there isn't sufficient clearance.

 

The ARP bolt heads also stand a bit taller than the factory rod bolts so the rods 2, 3 and 4 were hitting the windows in the windage tray much more than previously. Some judicious filing and checking had it fixed and turning over with no other clearance issues.

 

 

 

 

[Leon]

Beautiful work, it's coming together very nicely!

[Perfect240z]

And I thought removing the rear wheel arch was a lot...this is just spectacular to see. I wish I had the cash to do this professionaly. And a bmw motor is going to be pretty amazing.

[Iiro]

What a great project and excellent work with the car!!

 

I've been dreaming of 240Z for long time and S50B32 would also be my choice of an engine. Straight six keeping the "style" of the car but lots of power with great drivebility. It's great to know that it can if I ever have chance to do mine.

 

Would keeping the whole BMW rear be too complicated? I read somewhere that the BMW is only 3" (7 cm) wider than 240. Couldn't that difference be compensated with wheels?

 

I can't wait to see how nice this car will be and how in performs!!

 

ps. sorry for jumping in late, I only found the thread today

[katokid]

Would keeping the whole BMW rear be too complicated? I read somewhere that the BMW is only 3" (7 cm) wider than 240. Couldn't that difference be compensated with wheels?

 

 

Thanks liro, keeping in the spirit and staying with a NA six was the reason I went with the M3 engine. Hoping it turns out to be as much of a buzz to drive as I hope.

 

Anthing can be done with time and money but you have to ask if its realistic and truly beneficial. Engineers need to sign off my car so I can leagally drive it on our roads so while the whole BMW rear could be fitted it would make it much harder to get signed off by the engineers compared to staying with standard suspension and an R200. Just not worth it in my books.

[philom5]

You mean the transit engineers will sign off on the engine swap but not the rear end swap ?? That's backwards isn't it ?

[katokid]

You mean the transit engineers will sign off on the engine swap but not the rear end swap ?? That's backwards isn't it ?

 

Not really, the engine swap is a bolt in deal that doesnt effect the structual integrity of the chassis. Fitting the whole BMW rear suspension would require major structual changes and re engineering. On the other hand fitting the BMW diff would be a lot easier and I did contemplate this but good ratio's are very expensive and hard to get. Its not likely I will break the R200 anyway.

[frank280zx]

Looking good! The s50b32 oilpan modification is very common on s50b30 track cars here all you need now is the same as my track car... A CSL type airbox (carbon) and alpha n software. It ups the hp about 20 hp.. And in à light s30..you will notice it. Plus it raises the rev limitor to 7800 And THE best.. THE sound!!!!

Edited September 23, 2012 by frank280zx

[katokid]

Looking good! The s50b32 oilpan modification is very common on s50b30 track cars here all you need now is the same as my track car... A CSL type airbox (carbon) and alpha n software. It ups the hp about 20 hp.. And in à light s30..you will notice it. Plus it raises the rev limitor to 7800 And THE best.. THE sound!!!!

 

Once the car is sorted and running well I will go with a carbon air box and alpha N tune.....not for the 20 hp, just for the sound!

 

Unfortunately Im stuck with the B30 sump due to the B32 sump interfering with the steering rack so will go with an Accusump for insurance.

[frank280zx]

I love this build !!!

 

I run accusump aswel even if it is only peace of mind.

 

My previous b30 sump I modified:

 

Never had any problems with my oil pressure at all but they do need a sort of sling shot so i advice you to do that at least.

 

It is also wise to use a group N oil restrictor s50b30's are known for having problems by pulling oil into the combustion chamber (when raced or under hard driving);

 

Ill find the partnumber for you!

 

You have to take the valve cover off. There is a hex screw in the middle of the head on the intake side that has to come out, and that's where you put it in. You have to unscrew the stud to get it in.butthats it!

for a detailed discription

http://zonemotorsport.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=266&start=90

 

In order to place the airbox you have to measure the demension ( i can take them of mine aswel) as in the e36 it is TIGHT!!! I know s30 have more room but still the boxes are HUGE..

 

 

I did make 331 HP yesterday btw with the box and supersprint race exhaust ..

Edited October 4, 2012 by frank280zx

[katokid]

Hi Frank.

 

Thanks for posting pics of your B30 sump mods. Ive sent you a PM asking fior more detail.

 

Just to be clear my engine is a S50B32 but I have to run the S50B30 sump to clear the steering rack. B32's alreday come with the restrictor installed from the factory.

 

The M3 engine ran fine when it was on the test stand but they do have issues with the Vanos (variable cam timing) system. The Vanos system has solenoids controlled by the ECU that directs high pressure oil (there is an additional oil pump inside the Vanos housing to boost pressure over what the main engine oil pump provides) to cylinders either side of a piston that is connected to helical splined gears on the camshaft, as the piston moves back and forward the helical gears then either advance or retard the cams. First issue is the seals inside the cylinders are underspeced for the application and they degrade and then leak internally which results in the cams being in the wrong place at the wrong time so poor performance.

 

The second issue is noise. The 'diesel rattle' that is heard can be attributed to the helical splined gears that fit at the back of the vanos. Each splined gear has a bearing assembly inside which allows it to spin freely with the camshaft. These bearing assemblies are designed with a very loose tolerance from the manufacturer causing them to rattle or resonate at certain RPM's.

 

Besian Systems markets both seal kits and rattle kits, which cost $200 all up delivered from the US . Figured I would have to do this eventually and its better do the job with the engine out of the car.

 

The job isn't particularly difficult but takes a long time (second time would be much quicker) and its easy to miss time the cams if your not careful. The procedure instructions on the website http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm

http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm are very detailed and accurate and if you take your time and double check everything you wont go wrong. Hardest part was installing the Teflon seals....stretching them without breaking or damaging them.

 

 

The reason why Vanos units are problematic.......Rolls Royce is involved! Like many things RR build its over complicated and quirky. I work in the aviation industry and their large turbofan engines are more complicated than everyone elses, when they work they work very well but they aren't the most reliable either.

 

 

The inlet cam piston seal which normally gives the most problems was definitely shot on mine so I'm glad I did the seal kit.

 

 

The rattle kit was pretty straight forward but like the seal kit took a fair bit of time to get the clearances just right and the tools that Besian sell are a must have.

 

It takes a few assemblies and disassemblies to get the clearances spot on. The aim is to have a slight amount of preload on the torrington bearings once the end cap is torqued down so you have to keep taking small amounts off the ring to sneak up on it.

 

 

 

Back together again.

 

 

I'm going to run the engine on my test stand again just to be sure its all good. My engine definitely had some Vanos rattle, not too bad but it will be intersting to compare with the rattle kit fitted.

 

[katokid]

One of the other issues the BMW engines have is that the nut that holds the sprocket on the oil pump shaft comes loose with catastrophic results, this can easily be fixed by lock wiring or welding the nut however under extreme use they can also break the nose off the shaft off. While I'm not intending to race this thing I will use it for some track days and other events so I'm keen to do the most to ensure its as bullet proof as possible so I'm going with a VAC Motorsport oil pump drive which uses a keyed drive verses a tapered spline which solves both issues of the nut coming loose and the nose of the shaft snapping off.

 

 

While I was ordering the VAC Motorsport oil pump drive I also ordered one of their -10 AN oil cooler line adapters which is required if you cant use the factory oil cooler lines.

 

 

The top end is back together as is the bottom end with new front and rear main seals so I'm now reassembling with new gaskets and O rings where ever possible. I was putting the ITB's back on and thought I would share a photo of the inlet port....pretty nice for a production engine.

 

 

Hare & Forbes had a discounted offer on these https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/S302 in the last issue of Street Machine........

 

My poor misguided brother has a thing for FX-FJ Holdens and has two restos on the go at the moment, a ute and a sedan so between the two of us he needs one of these more than I do! He also has a big ass compressor at his factory so we struck a deal and will share the blaster at his factory. I figure it wont take long to recoup what it cost and the convenience of having one to use at any time will be brilliant as I start prepping and reassembling the drive train and suspension parts.

 

The sump and oil filter housing I had Hydroblasted, came up fantastically but it wasn't a cheap option and the guy is a long drive from my place so I bought some glass beads for the blaster and gave it its first run on my badly coroded thermostat housing and the serpentine belt tensioner. Very, very happy with the outcome. It was easy to use and very controlled and the end result was nearly as good as the Hydroblasting, not as shiny but a more factory finish anyway.

 

Before's and after's:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[frank280zx]

While I'm not intending to race this thing I will use it for some track days and other events so I'm keen to do the most to ensure its as bullet proof as possible

 

Be noted the the b32's are known for weaker rod bearings then the 3.0 so i might suggest replacing those yearly if you do track events. In my class all the 3.2 guys change them half season and winter stop ( that is 8 races!!)

I just replace them once a year in my 3.0 .

Guys that dont replace them in the 3.2 are known for rod bearing failures ( given they do 8K rpms)