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Need LSD break in tips.


LoneStarS30Z

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I purchased a new Power Brute LSD, so I googled the break in procedures and time period for clutch type LSD's and went on their website as well.

 

 

Their website simply says, warm the different to normal operating temperatures by driving 15-20 miles then cool down for 45 minutes. Then drive 200 miles with no hard loads on the drivetrain. Change fluid and go.

 

Now I've heard plenty of other things before my google adventure ranging from doing figure 8's to driving in circles.

 

One source from google says do 12 figure 8's in both directions, then 20 circles in each direction, then light driving for another 500 miles. Change fluid and go.

 

I've also seen other sources saying light driving for nearly 1500 miles!

 

Can any of you experienced guys give me some insight on where the truths begin and the educated guesses end?

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Curious where you got the Power Brute from...

 

I think most of the "drive lightly for 200 miles" stuff is carryover from ring and pinion break in. Ring and pinion sets work harden, so they need to be heat cycled a certain way. When I bought a Power Brute for my Toyota truck about 12 years ago I did some figure 8's just to get the LSD additive through the clutches so that it didn't chatter (I actually tried driving it without the additive and thought I had broken something, chattered BAD). Once the additive was in and made its way through all the clutches, I drove it the next day IIRC to an autox and flogged the crap out of it. That diff was in that truck for 150K+ miles and never had any problems.

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Did you install gears to?

 

Most of time the break-in is determined by the gearset. The LSD break in will happen at the same time.

 

Break is usually determined by heat cycling the gears which does something to the surface of the gears. Some gears are different. Over heating some new gears can lead to premature failure as it burns off a special layer instead of cooking it in and thats why a lot of them have special procedures. You can tell you over did it when you drain the fluid and it comes out black and burnt smelling...

 

If you put a LSD in with an old set of gears personally I would follow general gear break in procedures anyway to insure that the LSD itself wears in, but thats just me and may not be nessasary. I dont worry so much with a freshening up of the bearings, seals, shims, etc... for me its already broken in and as long as the gear set is setup correctly Ive had no problems running them hard upon re-assembly.

 

Just my opinion though.

 

If I were you I would contact a local gear shop and ask what they do and follow that... When my logic fails that what I do.

 

 

Looks like I was beat to the "post" button again.

 

Additive is friction modifier.

differnt types of LSD 'like' different types. Ive had good luck with the $13 bottle from GM that smells bad... Ive used it on lots of other LSD's other than GMs including my Nismo clutch type with success.... reminds me that I should change the fluid now.

 

 

The last break in I had to do was over the top. This may not be complelely accurate, but its close.

first 200 miles

no faster than 50mph, stop every 20 miles or 15min and cool down for 30min.

Next 300 miles

speed unlimited, stop every 60miles or 1 hour and rest 30 min for cool down.

Change Fluid and go.

Richmond Gear set for Dodge dana 70's with new clutch style LSD.

This was the breakin acording to the Richmond Gear warranty so its probably overkill, but we followed it.

Other says take it easy for first 500miles and only in town driving for the first 100 miles or something. Its never the same.

Edited by rayaapp2
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In my S13 I did figure 8's until the LSD stopped "clicking" when turning. After that I drove the crap out of it, changed fluid after a bit and drove even harder. Probably not the right thing to do but it was night and day from an open diff. I was dumb then too. Personally I'd do what you're comfortable with. I think if I was to do it again I'd do the figure 8's and drive it lightly for a distance, change fluid, drive it till the next oil change and do it again just because.

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Got the LSD from a member here.

 

I don't plan on switching the gearing at all, I just want to get rid of the open diff feel so the LSD is just going straight in. I'm just looking ahead to make sure after its installed properly, its broken in properly and will lead a healthy life with scheduled oil changes.

 

So far the figure 8 deal sounds like one of the most set in stone procedures. So for sure I'll do that, then do a cool down, then go for 15-20 mile drive, cool again then do some easy highway miles for an hour so and see how it goes.

Edited by LoneStarS30Z
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Additive is friction modifier.

differnt types of LSD 'like' different types. Ive had good luck with the $13 bottle from GM that smells bad... Ive used it on lots of other LSD's other than GMs including my Nismo clutch type with success.... reminds me that I should change the fluid now.

Friction modifier is all the same. The rumor used to be that the Ford "friction modifier" was different than "LSD additive" and that it actually made the clutches more grabby. Not true, they all work the same and reduce chatter out of the LSD.

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Friction modifier is all the same. The rumor used to be that the Ford "friction modifier" was different than "LSD additive" and that it actually made the clutches more grabby. Not true, they all work the same and reduce chatter out of the LSD.

 

Always had issues with the counter guys when asking for differential "additive". I totally agree with the above statement.

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The web page does look like it's for ring and pinion gear sets, apparently, not LSDs - http://www.precisiongear.com/pgtechbreak.htm

 

Can't you just call Precision Gear and see what they recommend? I assume that whatever materials they used, and treatments before during and after building the LSD would matter. Seems like they would know their product best.

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The web page does look like it's for ring and pinion gear sets, apparently, not LSDs - http://www.precisiongear.com/pgtechbreak.htm

 

Can't you just call Precision Gear and see what they recommend? I assume that whatever materials they used, and treatments before during and after building the LSD would matter. Seems like they would know their product best.

 

 

AH yes, you're right. I'm not in the country so I can't call them up, but I will try to find some contact info and maybe shoot them an email. Thanks for the heads up.

 

 

Edit: Whoops nevermind, looks like they don't take emails anymore. I may just pony up the international costs and give em a ring.

Edited by LoneStarS30Z
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