240zBoy Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 The car will not go into gear when running and it gets in any gear when off. It is a chevy 350 swap with a t-5 transmission. I adjusted the clutch throw and took off that little rubber block and it did nothing. It can get into third gear while running but not first or second. I was told to disconnect the power to my dizzy and turnover to see if car jumps while in gear. This will tell me if the clutch is not releasing or something? I dont know what to do and feel I might be buying a Tilton Master to fix this issue. Any help would be great because it is pissing me off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 Bad master, bad slave, or both. Usual procedure is to replace both at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zBoy Posted February 4, 2011 Author Share Posted February 4, 2011 Bad master, bad slave, or both. Usual procedure is to replace both at the same time. Brand new slave. Just tried startin car in first with clutch down and it jumped even when depressed all the way. Kinda scared me actually haha lucky I had e-brake down. Think NAPA would carry the tilton master Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 (edited) What is your set up for MC and slave? Edited February 4, 2011 by Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 In general, it sounds like the clutch is not releasing fully, so the trans is still turning with the clutch depressed. Usually a trans won't go into gear if turning. It could be the clutch adjustment, bad MC or slave as mentioned above, lack of adequate travel due to the MC/slave combo, or as simple as having air in the MC/slave. First step would be to bleed it and be absolutely sure it doesn't have any air. Then see how much travel you have at the slave and if that amount is enough to release the clutch. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 If the hydraulics are good you probably munched the center section of the disk. This is something I keep doing in me SR20DET Sentra. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 (edited) What is the MC bore size?Here is a method for the Tilton MC:I used the Tilton 7/8" MC, Mcleod roll pin adaptor and a Camaro slave.Parts numbers:Tilton 7/8" MC TIL-74-875U $80.00 SummitNapa Camaro slave UP37821 $43.98 NEW P/N IS NCF 73110McLeod roll pin adaptor MCL 139026 $46.39 SummitEarls 32" -3 ST/90 Clutch Hose EAR6301172 $27.00Earls -4 FEM swivel EAR 915104 $7.99Earls -3 to -4 union EAR991902 $4.99Note on the McLeod roll pin adaptor the tube part that slips into the plastic Camaro slave has a diameter that is slightly larger than the hole it fits into. I had to file the wide part of the tube so that the adaptor would complety seat into the roll pin hole on the Camaro slave. Edited November 11, 2014 by Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zjoel Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 I had this happen to two customers of mine. Ended up being a bad pressure plate. One of the springs actually came off. Could be it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zBoy Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 Alright well I am going to order that one Miles since I to have a camaro slave in there and the fittings and what not already. Did you have to shorten the length of the shaft like the JTR manual says or were you able to swap them over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 I shortened the shifter as seen below. Note that you may need to trim the shfter hole on the driver's side because the shfter housing may touch the tunnel at that point when the engine is torqued over. This will cause a major vibration every time you hammer the throttle. You will need to make some kind of cover for the large Datsun shifter hole. When you screw it to the tunnel be mindful that there are brake and fuel lines running inside the tunnel on the passenger side. Note also that the Camaro shifter does not move much so it does not need a big hole. Install the shifter on the trans and mock up a cardboard cover with the hole where you need it. Fab up an aluminum cover from the cardboard pattern. On the Tilton, you can swap the Datsun push rod into it so you can use the stock push rod and fork. To bleed the Tilton just open the bleed screw on the slave and let gravity fill the hose and slave. As the MC empties top it off so you don't run out of fluid and get air in the line. I let it drip for about a hour. Then close the bleed screw and push the clutch once or twice and it should be perfect. Adust the push rod and the clutch stop bumper so there is a small amount of play in the pedal. I removed the Camaro slave and assembled the hose, fittings and slave on the bench and then lowered the assembly into the car. Be sure to use a swivel fitting between the hose and McLeod roll pin adaptor to make routing the hose easier. If you are not sure about the fittings just take the whole assembly to your local speed shop that sells Russell or Earls fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zBoy Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Wow man thanks a ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Your welcome. Make haste slowly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zBoy Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 Alright I have no luck. It still will not get in a gear with the car running and grinds when I try to put it into reverse and like 3rd. So I bought that tilton master upgrade and I have this slave http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DHB-CS360052/. The slave is brand new and I really hope I do not have an issue with the pressure plate or throw out bearing. Any ideas? I really want to get this thing going soon and I have been held back a long time on this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 If the hydraulics are good you probably munched the center section of the disk. This is something I keep doing in me SR20DET Sentra. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zBoy Posted February 24, 2011 Author Share Posted February 24, 2011 Well the motor has 0 miles on it since we put it in so there must be an issue with the pressure plate or maybe throw out bearing. Since it doesn't release and launched when started in first with the pedal fully depressed. Actually almost jumped through the garage lol. We will see what is up in about 2 weeks when we get her up in the air and take a look. Sucks but I guess the tilton wasnt a total waste of money cause the clutch does feel better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaZeS30 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 I am having this same problem with mine. The clutch and pressure plate are brand-new, so I don't know how the pressure plate could be bad already. The first thing I noticed was that my drive-tunnel wasn't clearanced enough to let the fork swing all the way. I cut a little bit of steel to allow it to travel, still doesn't work. I even went one size up from the Tilton(because I couldn't find anyone like NAPA, CarQuest, PepBoys, O'reilly, etc, that carries it) to 1". It's bigger than my brake master cylinder as far as bore size. The pedal feel is really damn stiff, and it's eventually going to fatigue the steel in my fire-wall, but it still doesn't work. Supposedly the Camaro slave cylinder is self-bleeding and doesn't have a bleed screw? If it does, I don't see it anywhere. Can anyone confirm this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Montezuma Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Explained well and perfect for this thread. Anyone out there who can help? Reading this thread I am leaning towards a problem with pressure plate or throw-out bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 (edited) I am having this same problem with mine. The clutch and pressure plate are brand-new, so I don't know how the pressure plate could be bad already. The first thing I noticed was that my drive-tunnel wasn't clearanced enough to let the fork swing all the way. I cut a little bit of steel to allow it to travel, still doesn't work. I even went one size up from the Tilton(because I couldn't find anyone like NAPA, CarQuest, PepBoys, O'reilly, etc, that carries it) to 1". It's bigger than my brake master cylinder as far as bore size. The pedal feel is really damn stiff, and it's eventually going to fatigue the steel in my fire-wall, but it still doesn't work. Supposedly the Camaro slave cylinder is self-bleeding and doesn't have a bleed screw? If it does, I don't see it anywhere. Can anyone confirm this? See picture for bleed screw location. Edited April 5, 2011 by Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zBoy Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 Well my buddy actually ended up figuring out my problem. The slave cylinder needed a longer shaft so he put a longer one on. That grabbed a couple of more gears so he cut off the bumpstop inside and grabbed all the gears. Then bled the slave again and now the clutch works perfect. To bad we must have broke the pin on the t-5's for fifth gear so thats not there right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 (edited) 240ZBoy Is the clutch throwout arm hitting the trans tunnel? Did you assemble the clutch disk in the correct orientation? Opps looks like I just missed your last post before I wrote this. Although, I am not sure why you needed to use a longer push rod since the Tilton MC and NAPA slave combination I used worked right out of the box on each of my builds. Edited April 5, 2011 by Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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