kamikaZeS30 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 (edited) Miles, that doesn't look like the slave I have. The one I have has the line going in directly on the "front" of the cylinder, not the top. I was told this was the stock slave cylinder for the Camaro T-5. I will see if the exact p/n is on the invoice and check the the p/n for the clutch/pressure plate kit. It may be because I'm using a weird combination of parts that even at full-travel of the throw-out it's not enough to engage the pressure plate fully. I didn't think of that, before. Then again, I wasn't the guy that put it together. I have a fairly standard rhinopac heavy duty clutch, the slave cylinder is listed a p/n "ew156024" but google search turns up nothing. It says that's the part number for a steering rack from a Fiat/Alpha Romeo/MG or something. Edited April 5, 2011 by kamikaZeS30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Miles, that doesn't look like the slave I have. The one I have has the line going in directly on the "front" of the cylinder, not the top. I was told this was the stock slave cylinder for the Camaro T-5. I will see if the exact p/n is on the invoice and check the the p/n for the clutch/pressure plate kit. It may be because I'm using a weird combination of parts that even at full-travel of the throw-out it's not enough to engage the pressure plate fully. I didn't think of that, before. Then again, I wasn't the guy that put it together. I have a fairly standard rhinopac heavy duty clutch, the slave cylinder is listed a p/n "ew156024" but google search turns up nothing. It says that's the part number for a steering rack from a Fiat/Alpha Romeo/MG or something. The stock Camaro slave used a roll-pin connector to attach the hose to the slave. Is that what you have? Have you made any adjustments to the push rod and clutch pedal under the dash? There are two adjustments under the dash: push rod length is adjusted by turning the push rod in/out where it attaches to the clevis and you can adjust the clutch pedal bump stop to shorten or lengthen the over-all travel of the clutch arm. Be sure to leave a small amount in clutch pedal play. Can you post some pictures of your MC and slave set up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaZeS30 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 (edited) Wilwood Master... I'm guessing this is a 1" bore size, it looks much larger than the stock 5/8". ...and this is what I'm being told is the "self-bleeding" Camaro slave. Sorry about the image, but my engine bay is a little crowded. The body is smooth like that top and bottom, has no bleed screw, and the roll-pin was in the forward part of the cylinder (basically the body of the cylinder ends where the header hides the view and that's where my AN adapter and fittings are). Edited April 5, 2011 by kamikaZeS30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zBoy Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 240ZBoy Is the clutch throwout arm hitting the trans tunnel? Did you assemble the clutch disk in the correct orientation? Opps looks like I just missed your last post before I wrote this. Although, I am not sure why you needed to use a longer push rod since the Tilton MC and NAPA slave combination I used worked right out of the box on each of my builds. Maybe we are using different clutch forks. I am sure a straighter fork would have made it easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaZeS30 Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Okay, well, I found the Wilwood master cylinder on their website, it's either a 3/4, 7/8 or 1", either way it's larger than the stock M/C. What kind of pedal feel do you guys experience with the 7/8" set-up? Maybe mine still has air somewhere in the line, it seems like it takes an awful lot of effort in the pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 with the 7/8" Tilton MC and Camaro slave the pedal is factory smooth and a little stiffer than the original stock Datsun set up before the engine swap. One reason that your clutch might be stiff is if your MC is larger than 7/8" (assuming that you are using a stock Camaro slave). The larger the bore size the stiffer the clutch will be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaZeS30 Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 I pumped it some more last night, I'm finally to the point where the trans will shift when the car is off. I can't test with it running, until I get my FPR and filter installed, but I have this feeling that I am just getting air somewhere in the cylinder. Would having to install the AN adapters have cause the cylinder to be exposed to air? If that is the case, it is definitely a bleed problem and I'll just have to keep pumping it. I don't think my pressure plate or throw-out are bad, as those are all fresh-out-of-the-box parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 I pumped it some more last night, I'm finally to the point where the trans will shift when the car is off. I can't test with it running, until I get my FPR and filter installed, but I have this feeling that I am just getting air somewhere in the cylinder. Would having to install the AN adapters have cause the cylinder to be exposed to air? If that is the case, it is definitely a bleed problem and I'll just have to keep pumping it. I don't think my pressure plate or throw-out are bad, as those are all fresh-out-of-the-box parts. Yes, if you disconnected the line to the MC you will have air in the line and will need to bleed out the air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zBoy Posted April 6, 2011 Author Share Posted April 6, 2011 Gravity bleeding did not get all the air out of the camaro slave for me so I pumped it like 6 or 7 times then had someone loosen it with my foot still on the pedal...ect Wish that slave could just have a normal bleeder screw lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 (edited) Pictured below is the Camaro clutch fork and throwout bearing. Is this what you guys are using? Edited April 7, 2011 by Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaZeS30 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 (edited) That is the one I have. Edit: Again, played with the clutch some more last night. It really feels like I'm only missing the last like 1/8" of engagement travel-- I just never quite get to the point where the pedal loses resistance because the clutch fully disengages before I hit the floor. Edited April 8, 2011 by kamikaZeS30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetride2go Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 You mentioned that your clutch components are new, but how long has it been since they were installed? I had a similar problem with my car, chased down throwout travel and even replaced masters to a bigger bore to get more travel only to find out in the end that the clutch had frozen to the flywheel. My components had been installed and sitting for well over a year or two... Just some food for thought. Good luck Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaZeS30 Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 What do you mean by "frozen"? Like water vapors freezing and causing the components to stick, or like mechanically frozen together somehow? Mine sat for about 6 months with the engine and transmission assembled, but I don't live someplace that gets cold enough for it to "literally" freeze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 The flywheel can rust and stick to the clutch disc, freezing them together. The pressure plate comes up but the disc (connected to the trans mainshaft) just stays stuck to the flywheel. Way back on the first clutch I ever installed, on a small block chevy engine, I actually put the disc on backwards (the "This side toward flywheel" sticker fell off!). Everything moved like it should but the clutch would not release. The engine was loud too, so I couldn't hear the clutch springs rubbing on the flywheel bolts. Just one more possibility... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaZeS30 Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Wouldn't that make some kind of audible noise? My engine isn't that loud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 I too am going through this as well. There are 2 versions of the Camaro slave, the plastic one and the metal one. The metal one has an actual bleeder screw behind the hose line. I'm thinking of getting the "power bleeder" screws that have a check valve installed inside them so they are really easy to bleed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 I too am going through this as well. There are 2 versions of the Camaro slave, the plastic one and the metal one. The metal one has an actual bleeder screw behind the hose line. I'm thinking of getting the "power bleeder" screws that have a check valve installed inside them so they are really easy to bleed. The Napa Camaro slave is plastic. See picture of my previous post. There is a company that makes a metal version. I have used the Napa plastic version on two builds and never had a problem. The bleed screw is on top. Napa Camaro slave UP37821 $43.98 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 I got mine at autozone http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Clutch-Slave-Cylinder/1992-Chevrolet-Camaro-Z28/_/N-iwkdyZ6o2ja?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=clutch&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=132447_0_0_ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaZeS30 Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 Thank you for posting the part numbers, guys. I will probably be picking one of those up soon. Not sure which one, yet. I have to get my fuel system working, guy who did my swap (through no fault of his own, distributor's mix-up) ended up putting in a pump that was too high pressure for my application, so now I have to hitch a ride to go spend $150 for a different pump, install, then take the other pump back for reimbursement, then I can test my clutch. Should be reporting my clutch results by next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Montezuma Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 I was wondering how things were coming along. I hope you got the fuel situation figured out so you can take care of the clutch situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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