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Building my 3.0 L soon - pics


inline6

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No, it was in reference to the cam in the head of the engine I was giving as an example. We kept the same cam, but with the displacement change, the power peak happened at a different point in the rpm range.

 

This is a common occurance in the VW World where guys really get to liking a cam in a 1600 or even 1835, and spec it for another engine and it's WAAAAAY overkill for the larger engine. Or opposite---they like the specs in a big motor, and when they build the smaller engine, they're dissapointed that the characteristics of the cam change so much.

 

It's one thing here that people fail to take into account. One thing that works great in an L24 will work differently in a 3.0 and vice-versa.

 

We had fueling problems on the Dyno last week, so new numbers from the 2.8 are not complete. Something like 256HP at the rear wheels but that was only at 6500 rpms (Different Cam from last time in the above examples.) The power comes on above 6K, so it was just starting to build when the map went full rich and started misfiring. :angry:

 

Wish I could have been there...

Edited by Tony D
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  • 1 month later...
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Nice.

 

Check the dimensions before doing anything for sure. If all looks good, you might want to consider Swain coating. Another $300 or so. You have to bore after you have the coated pistons in hand so the clearance is correct. I sent a set of 25 year old Cosworth pistons out for coating and they came back looking like new.

 

P3040016.jpg

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Ok, an update:

 

Block (N42) is back from the machine shop. They left about 4 thou for final honing (final sizing). Also, the main caps were ground a touch and the crank main bore was align honed - probably overkill.

 

I am looking for a torque plate... If I can't find a suitable one to use then I will just have the final hone done without it. Head bolt/stud hole location is such that the distortion on these blocks (when compared to many) isn't a big issue. Anyway, happy to pony up money to rent one, if that is what it takes.

 

The fun stuff, (actual assembly) is not too far off! B)

post-4218-011749900 1323399132_thumb.jpg

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Crank, flywheel, pressure plate, and disc, etc. are being balanced. The crank was 2-3 grams out of balance... The brand new Fidanza 10 lb. aluminum flywheel was 8 grams out...

 

Looks like I'll be final honing without the use of a torque plate. My engine builder is going to try to torque the head on and take some measurements to see the cyl wall deflection. We'll see...

 

Should have some more pics and more frequent updates going forward as we are getting ever closer to assembly, or rather, mock-up! :lol:

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  • 5 weeks later...

The last of the parts I had to round up are en route... Attaching a pic of the fittings installed in new holes above the #5 and #6 exhaust ports. They are placed at the top of the cooling passages - as high as my machinist could get them without cutting threads into the top of the passage surface.

 

post-4218-039271500 1330488353_thumb.jpg

 

Lots more pics coming soon... Stay tuned.

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This is the high capacity pump that I am reusing. Looks like a few nice chunks of stuff have been through here. One of them was stuck in the soft aluminum housing... was able to pick it out :lol:

 

Raised edges were removed. Rotor polished up in the process. Also modded the inlets and outlets for better flow.

 

post-4218-041669900 1331083303_thumb.jpg

post-4218-091639900 1331083321_thumb.jpg

 

More exciting stuff coming before long. ;)

Edited by inline6
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  • 2 weeks later...

So, the machinist is working hard on my project now. He torqued the head on - I'm using ARP studs, and then measured bore deflection. The worst place only measures a total of 4 tenths out... that is 4 ten thousandths of an inch. He measured in various places and most of the deformities were 2 tenths or less. And the worst was additive - 2 tenths one direction and 2 tenths in the other (or something like that). Guess what folks? That is pretty friggin' good. Combustion pressures are what? Hmmm. Over a 1000 psi, maybe? I'm guessing that the cylinder walls might deflect a tad with that kind of pressure?

 

Anyway, I feel pretty ok about not using a torque plate for the final hone. ;)

Edited by inline6
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  • 2 weeks later...

A few pics...

 

Unfortunately JE did not cut the dishes in the pistons as we wished. The machinist had to remove some more material to get the piston dish cc where I wanted it.

 

post-4218-003148400 1333215613_thumb.jpg

 

Now, they have 11cc volume including the valve reliefs. My calculations put the engine compression ratio at 11.15 to 1. Here, the pistons are all cleaned up:

 

post-4218-033886700 1333215045_thumb.jpg

 

Bryan, my engine builder, has finished sizing the rings to the bores. The oil expander gap is too big with the expanders that came with the pistons.

 

post-4218-071935000 1333215086_thumb.jpg

 

Bryan said they were producing only 4 lbs. of oil ring drag, so we have to go up one size. Those have been ordered.

 

And lastly, the crank is sitting in the block for mock up.

 

post-4218-072074000 1333215074_thumb.jpg

 

We need to put the rods and pistons in to see where the pistons are going to end up relative to the deck. Because I am trying to get as much quench as I can with my E88 head (milled lots!), I will be running piston to head clearance of the thickness of the Nismo head gasket - .6mm (.024").

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just got some more photos from Bryan, my engine builder. The pistons have been put in the motor for the first time in order to see the relationship with the deck. Measurements are written on them. Along the pin axis, they are basically flat with the deck. One side verse the other, the variance is about one to two thousandths. The plus and minus numbers at the 6:00 and 12:00 positions are the measurements made when rocking the pistons. +7 for example is the amount that the edge of the piston rocks up and out of the cylinder bore.

 

The Nismo gasket I am going to be using measures .025" in the non-ridged area (just the flat portion). It should not compress any during installation.

 

Specs given by BRAAP and Brian (BandMZcars) in some posts say .022" is the minimum to run for piston to head clearance.

 

I've not seen anything about compensating for piston rocking. So, hopefully, the .022" takes this factor into consideration. With + .000" on some of the pistons and the .025" gasket, I'll be at .025" "static" - if you will.

 

Glad to see the pistons from JE came out to spec in this regard.

 

post-4218-053276500 1334523160_thumb.jpg

 

post-4218-093223300 1334523185_thumb.jpg

 

post-4218-024343700 1334523213_thumb.jpg

 

post-4218-004101300 1334523238_thumb.jpg

Edited by inline6
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  • 3 weeks later...

Another update...

 

I am just about out of tensioner travel due to surfacing what I calculate to be .107" off of cylinder head since it was virgin. The bolt washers are hiding the remaining slot clearance - about .080" to .100".

 

Also, I had to use up almost all cam gear adjustment to get the cam to 100.5 Intake Center Line.

 

 

Cam degreed in/checked out as:

 

Intake- 281* @ .050 valve lift (Cam/follower lash .010)

 

.549 net lift at valve

 

100.5* Intake centerline

 

 

 

Exhaust- 267* @.050 valve lift (Cam/follower lash .010)

 

.542 net lift at valve

 

108.5* Exhaust centerline

 

Cam measures 104.5* Lobe seperation.

 

Cam is advanced 4* from "straight up".

 

post-4218-036822100 1335931955_thumb.jpg

 

post-4218-023922400 1335931969_thumb.jpg

 

PTV on the exhaust is only .082"... and on the intake is only .002" :o More machining of pistons to add PTV is necessary!

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I am sure you and your engine guy already know, but adjust your timing cover to match the block if you have done shaving.

 

At the last minute on my build I found a pristine lower timing cover I decided to use, but somebody had shaved it in the past and it leaked.

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At the last minute on my build I found a pristine lower timing cover I decided to use, but somebody had shaved it in the past and it leaked.

 

Ohhh... yeah, I could see that one tripping people up. Thanks for the head's up.

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