[WreZ]

Hey guys i am absolutely STUMPED on how to get this crap off. I just got a new set of headers from motorsport and wanted to install them and I heard that removing the intake manifold would give me gobs of room to work with. Well 3 days later and i'm still trying to get the damn thing off. First off there is a little support for the fuel lines that connects behind one of the belt tensioners that i am tempted to take a saw-zal to. secondly the last bolt holding the intake on that was hidden under the little plate on top of the intake, i was wondering if thats like a 12mm bolt because i have the crappiest of crappy wratchet set that has a 11mm socket and a 13mm socket but no 12:evil:!! I am in desperate need of help i'm at my wits end with this.

[freakshow]

In order to take the exhaust manifold off, you have to remove the intake. In order to take the intake off, you have to remove the fuel rail, some of the accessory brackets. Take a good long look at everything, it helps if you label everything for easier reassembly. Take your time. You will have to replace the intake/exhaust gasket, and maybe some wires, and if you break off a couple of studs, you will have to get them out somehow. depending on where you live, you might be able to get one of the more knowledgeable members here to give you a hand. If I was in your area, I would. cheap tools are a good way to strip off bolts, break bolts, and skin your knuckles. I would invest in at least a simple socket set from craftsman, or at least stanley form wal-mart. And you should at least have a haynes manual for your car, I would recommend the chiltons book over the haynes though, and the factory service manual i better than both of them.

[FlatBlack]

Proper tools are a MUST. I use a 12mm socket with two extensions on a 3/8 ratchet to get past the tubes on my headers. The first time taking the manifolds off with the stock heat shields on was quite a pain in the arse, but I replaced all of the old bolts with new studs.

Unbolt the heat shield from the intake manifold first, this is the easiest thing to do.

It also is good to know that the bottom of the intake manifold is attached with washers that hold part of the exhaust manifold on as well.

Hope this helps you mentally see where the exhaust bolts are:

[WreZ]

ok so maybe theres a little mix up here, is it necessary to remove the intake to get to the exhaust mani or is it just preferred? the haynes manual doesn't really give any specifics other than its roomier to remove the intake first. Also if all i have to do is remove the heat shield and then remove the exhaust bolts can i get the manifold bolts off from the top of the car or do i have to jack it up and remove the front left tire to get to them? I also have another question on the subject, why did nissan/datsun design the engine to have the intake above the exhaust? My friend says its something to do with the egr but i don't know

[freakshow]

I suppose you could remove the exhaust manifold without removing the intake, however, I believe it would make the job even more difficult. If your engine has any kind of miles on it, the gasket will probably stick to the manifold and tear, requiring you to replace the gasket, then all your work of removing the exhaust first will be null and void, as you will have to remove the intake anyway to replace the gasket. I suggest you just pull it apart, its not really all that difficult. In the process you will find out that most of the hoses need to be replaced, some of the clamps will be junk, and you will save yourself some major headaches later on. After I did mine, I went for a drive on the expessway, hadnt changed a couple of hoses on top of the intake, and of course one of them blew, leaking coolant on a sunday afternoon, 50 miles from home isnt cool. do it right, pull the whole thing apart. better you find the weak points in your garage than on your way to work.

[Challenger]

Once you know EVERYTHING is detached, the intake will still be a pain to remove. It usually sticks to the gasket and is wedged inbetween the washers mentioned earlier.

I actually used a engine wench at a JY to pull an intake off. Itll seem like its still attached by something but all it is is friction and chemical bonds.

[280zx 2by2]

if your going to replace the gasket your going to have to remove both the intake and exhaust because they share a single gasket

also if the manifolds are froze to the head just tap (whack!!) it with a mallet and if your built even a little bigger than David Spade you should be able to lift it off but it helps to have some one on the passenger side to guide the fuel and coolant lines

also multiple 3/8 extensions and a 12mm ratchet wrench are a must

[big-phil]

take a look at this video I made for installing my new turbo. In it I explain a bit on how to take all that off. Its a turbo, but it all the same Idea.
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=hO9oL_0MfLw
Good luck!

[Mobious5]

i did this about 3 hours ago,i had to replace my therastat-head gasket. you can take the intake manifold off with the throttle body and fuel rail all at onece by losening the 7 14mm bolts under the manifold then romove the 4 24mm bolts on top. after that remove the the pin and spring on the throttle rod. unplug all the vacum/electrical lines. and shiz-zam out she goes. i've had to do this servral times since installing gaskets and forgetting to tighten bolts,causing more blown gaskets.

oh and you will deff need 7-8in shaft extension.

[280zx 2by2]

Mobious5 said:

i did this about 3 hours ago,i had to replace my therastat-head gasket. you can take the intake manifold off with the throttle body and fuel rail all at onece by losening the 7 14mm bolts under the manifold then romove the 4 24mm bolts on top. after that remove the the pin and spring on the throttle rod. unplug all the vacum/electrical lines. and shiz-zam out she goes. i've had to do this servral times since installing gaskets and forgetting to tighten bolts,causing more blown gaskets.

oh and you will deff need 7-8in shaft extension.

i believe the lower 7 shared between the intake and exhaust are all 12mm and the top 4 on the intake are 16 or 14mm

and i hope that 24mm was a typo because daym that's big!!!!

[at-jefft]

flatblack280 said:

but I replaced all of the old bolts with new studs.

Source of new bolts? Thanks, Jeff

[FlatBlack]

I got the new bolts at Fastenal. I misspoke - I didn't use studs, but new bolts.

I'm converting to studs tomorrow - I'm going by Fastenal to get the sizes, I'll post up the results/part numbers. I don't feel comfortable running bolts on the turbo manifold.

TrumpetRhapsody's swap is done so mine starts this week

[280zx 2by2]

at-jefft said:

Source of new bolts? Thanks, Jeff

http://www.thezstore...D/PEC05/15-8081

those are studs which imho seem better than bolts

plus they look pretty



the bolts/studs are 8mm x 1.25 thread if you go to a hardware store

the four intake bolts are 10mm x 1.25 thread

[WreZ]

hey guys finally got the damn things off, had to buy a metric wrench set to get to the last two bolts from the intake and exhaust. But i do have one more question, while i was getting all the stuff off i got into a little of a sawzall frenzy. the bolts holding on the egr hose (from the egr valve to the exhaust) were stuck on like crazy so i decided foolishly to cut the egr hose off. So now i have a pair of headers with a hole for an egr but no egr hose to attach it to the valve:icon50:. So my question is does anybody know if i can pick this part up from my local autozone because i don't really have the time to order and ship the part from the internet, Or could i just stick a bolt with some pipe thread sealer in the hole in the header and cut out the egr system all together?

[Challenger]

Try the bolt route than block off the egr port on the intake manifold. 2 ways, bolt a plate on top or cut off the port and weld on a cap. (metal weld or JB weld your choice)


If you need a really easy method for plugging the egr bung. Pull the original tube and just bend it over and smash the crap out of the bent edge. Heat it enough and hammer hard enough and it will seal pretty permanently, but I would reccomend running it as a complete fix.

[WreZ]

Hey guys thanks for all the help and advice, just so you guys know this website is hands down more helpful than the other car forums i frequent (mostly vw forums for my bug). I just have one FINAl question on this project, along with the headers i got from motorsport i also ordered a full exhaust kit. now the kit was advertised as a system that didn't require welding (i was sceptical). Now once i got the headers and the collector on the car while i still had the stock exhaust on i noticed that the collector would not fit onto the cat because it extended about an inch past the connector. i'm also kind of confused about the configuration of the pipes ( i've really only worked with vw bug and mustang exhaust). If somebody could please tell me how i piece this system together without welding (i am able to weld if need be, also sorry for no pics my mom stole my camera haha)thanks again for the help guys, once i get all this set up i'm gonna take her to the track with my friend and his soltice:mrgreen:.

[Challenger]

What kind of exhaust? There are different versions.

[WreZ]

I ordered this kit:
http://www.thezstore...D/PEC06/15-6025

heres a pic of all the stuff that came in the kit (excepting 4 ring type things that support the exhaust to the car body)

http://forums.hybrid...8&pictureid=788

now i assume that the pipe on the far left connects to the opposite end of the cat as the header/collector does, my friend says that maybe because of my clearance issues the system might have been designed as a system without a catalytic converter. Also heres a pic of the clearance issue im having at the cat

http://forums.hybrid...8&pictureid=789

[hughdogz]

I think you're right. The far left looks like it bolts after the cat. The second to the left looks like it goes under the axle. Third one over the rear crossmember. Some early ZX's have the exhaust cross over to the passenger side, so the last one may (or may not) be needed after the muffler.

[280zx 2by2]

WreZ said:

Hey guys thanks for all the help and advice, just so you guys know this website is hands down more helpful than the other car forums i frequent (mostly vw forums for my bug). I just have one FINAl question on this project, along with the headers i got from motorsport i also ordered a full exhaust kit. now the kit was advertised as a system that didn't require welding (i was sceptical). Now once i got the headers and the collector on the car while i still had the stock exhaust on i noticed that the collector would not fit onto the cat because it extended about an inch past the connector. i'm also kind of confused about the configuration of the pipes ( i've really only worked with vw bug and mustang exhaust). If somebody could please tell me how i piece this system together without welding (i am able to weld if need be, also sorry for no pics my mom stole my camera haha)thanks again for the help guys, once i get all this set up i'm gonna take her to the track with my friend and his soltice:mrgreen:.

yeah somebody really needs to take them to court about this, my "bolt on" headers was 2 1/2 inches off from actually bolting on to my cat, had to go to a muff shop and pay 50 to get it connected

i asked them specificly 4-5 times is this a 100% bolt on kit they said yeah

i get it on and call them about the issue and they say they havent had a problem before and the kick was if i modified the header or y pipe at all no refund

at least they are consistent with their inconstancy