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tamo3

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Everything posted by tamo3

  1. Electric Mod is done. Install Moded Autometer Tachometer with shift change light Install Alpine stereo with power amp Install Power lock Install Power Window Install Viper Alarm with auto window roll up Remove shunt add relays add fusebox for constant add fusebox for IGN add relay and fuse for the starter add relay and fuse for head lights Remove transistor Swap ammeter to voltmeter Swap to 280zx dizzy Swap to GM CS-144 alternator Swap interior light bulb to blue LED
  2. I just picked up 1975 280z. Body condition was amazingly good and minimum rust. Only small dent on the passenger's side of the door and fender. The goal for this project is phased project. 1. To run the engine 2. Fix minor rust 3. 240z bumper and tail light conversion 4. Fuel injection to Triple weber swap. 5. Paint the car Let's see how much progress I can make monthly...
  3. WHICH BRAKE BOOSTER

    I put 280zx booster for 15/16 master cylinder onto my 280z.
  4. It gets softer. I wiped out Vaseline and put it on to the center console. The clips are so hard to put them on. Especially, leather is thicker than fake leather. But, the leather boots cover is too long, Shift nob will be hidden... I removed it and compare with the original one. It is way too long. I cut it sort. Now it looks better.
  5. I purchase cheap leather outer shift cover from ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shift-Boot-Real-Leather-For-Datsun-240z-260z-280z-Manual-Black/181378028504?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I was not soft, not flexible. I learned that putting Vaseline and leave it night will soften leather. So, I put it all over it and leave it night.
  6. I decided to use 240SX rubber parts. trace the frame and cut it out. It has two layers. Since mine is short shifter, it does not touch the frame at all. But it has some gap. I end up adding original shift boot on the top of 240sx boot cover.
  7. Thanks Nigel, that’s great solution and 10 years warrenty comes with!
  8. Now installing shifter. I swap with B&M short shifter. B&M shifter is so solid made. There is spring and retainer parts. I forgot the order to put them in. I found the thread about B&M shifter assembly. This is really helpful for me to put them back. http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=281601 The shifter has a white bushing and that is SO tight! I need to use hummer to tap it in. Once bushing is inserted, it's not hard to screw in. Looking good! Now I need to think about the cover.... Original rubber cover won't fit.
  9. No, I since mine is 280z with R200, I need to use shorten 280z drive shaft.
  10. I swap alternator to GM CS144 following this thread. However, it seems it's not charging the battery. https://youtu.be/PwZftua0j9I When it's idle or high RPM, battery stays around 12.20v. It supposed to go up to 13.x - 14v while charging. When I put multi-tester on Alternator Positive and connect to battery negative, it shows only 11.48v. What could be wrong?? Thanks for your help in advance. Tamo3
  11. Thanks seattlejester I combine the IGN line to Charge warning lamp and Voltmeter. Here is 77 280z schematic. '75 280z does not have IGN Relay.
  12. Thanks NewZed! I will test it out tomorrow. I found one more mistake.There were two IGN SW in previous schematic. Here is updated version.
  13. Thanks Tim! Here is the final result. Is Voltmeter always showing current voltage, even though I did not insert key? I'm afraid of drain battery..
  14. So, without key insert, voltmeter shows current voltage. Once I turn key to ON position, Charge Warning lamp light up. Is this expected behavior?
  15. After extensive texting with try and error, I broke voltmeter. Also I found out the warning lamp was gone too. Luckily, I have a spare voltmeter. Thanks for your advice, NewZed, TimZ. Tim, '75 280z had Ammeter originally, I installed '77 voltmeter. NewZed, I have original '75 FSM book. I read through it, but '75 does not have ignition warning lamp at all. That's why I'm having issues to figure out how I can install wiring. I think I found 2 problems. The first one, charge lamp was broken. It was working but somehow the light bulb went out. I replace the bulb. Second thing is that to the wiring to the Voltmeter was wrong. I connected both charge lamp to voltmeter wire together. Actually, I need to the 12V+ constant. So, I re-wire as following. Since I need constant for Voltmeter, I tapped wire from the clock blue wire(12V constant) and black wire to the black (ground)
  16. Hi Tim, Do you mean I should connect S to Charge warning lamp and voltmeter?
  17. 75 280z does not have charge lamp since it comes with ammeter. Here is '75 FSM. Voltage Warning lamp never turned on. When I connect L to S on Alternator, voltmeter shows correct voltage but not Volt Charge warning lamp.
  18. Thanks for your advice! After connecting L to S, the battery started to get charged!!! Thank you so much! It now proof, Alternator is good. When I remove diode, the result is same. Charge lamp never light and voltmeter is not working. I will remove register for the next test. By the way, If I kept connecting L to S(BAT+), is it safe?
  19. Thanks for your input. Both my battery and alternator are brand new. Here is more detail of my mod. Since I installed CS144 alternator, which includes IC regulator. Here is the original '75 ammeter. I modified like this. I removed shunt. Connect Alternator L to 300ohm register then diode. I connect the line to Voltmeter charge lamp. Alternator BAT+ is connected to Red/White line which leads to Battery. Alternator Ground is using 4G wire connect to body earth. Here is '77 280z Voltmeter schematic for your reference.
  20. I deleted shunt which my '75 280z had. Here is current wiring diagram.
  21. I think you need 2 switches. One is for starter that you have push button and the other one is as “on” position toggle switch.
  22. Seat swap list for s30's

    Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
  23. Drilled a hole on original 280z frame. Finally, seats are installed.
  24. Working on the Lancer Evo8 seat swap. There is one bold I could not remove for long time. Finally, I decided to weld it and take it off! Purchased 5mm thick flat bar at HomeDepot to cut to make a frame. And drilled M8 size hole. Installed the flat bar. In order to mount original '75 280z seat rail, I need to drill a hole on itself to adjust.
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