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Derek

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Derek last won the day on August 9

Derek had the most liked content!

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About Derek

  • Rank
    That Horny Z Guy
  • Birthday 04/01/58

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  • Location
    Central Florida USA
  1. 2009 WRX drivetrain to 280z

    I think what project binky showed me the most was that you can fit stuff in the space pretty easily. Getting it all to work properly without killing you is the tough part. What good is all that effort if it handles like a mini van.
  2. Test (Ignore)

    ok
  3. V3 is going on a tall deck 3.5L with a custom crank and pistons. Normally aspirated. Should be high 4's for horsepower.
  4. Since I'm planning on trying out VCT on my build I figured I'd better finalize the valving. For me it's alway a balance of (not necessarily in this order) function, manufacturing and style. On the VCT it's always function first since what's the point if it looks better than it works. I knew what valve I wanted to use ( manufacturing) and where it needed to go (function) but not how to make it work ( manufacturing ) and not have it be butt ugly (style). I picked the valve I did because of the fact it came with it's own manifold. This makes manufacturing a lot easier since I don't have to do any precision boring. Since it's an open pressure (bleed) circuit believe I need to locate the valve as close to the cam phaser as possible to try and minimize the response lag. I also have to deliver a pretty good volume of oil at times where a fast response is necessary. I mapped out the valve with the 4 circuits. Oil in, 2 drains, advanced and retard. The valve is a spring return and defaults to retarded cam position. Retarded seems to be the default for the phaser as well. Which makes sense. Lets start with the fact that I'm not crazy style wise about hanging this valve off of the front of the timing cover. But it's the closest I can get it to the phaser and still be able to plumb it. Here is a shot of the final plumbing. Red is oil in. Light blue are the drains. brown is retard and purple is advance. Since I didn't want the valve there to begin with you can imagine how I felt when I finally gave in to the fact that I needed a .625" thick manifold block to handle all the cross drilling. I tried a bunch of scenarios but it would have added a ton of time to the machining because of doing that kind of work on a short production run casting is tough. I also had to flip the valve 180 from my original position to get the advance and retard ports to match the head. It's all about compromises in life:) Derek:
  5. Megasquirt grounding

    Shielded wire and single point grounding will be your friend.
  6. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    Just a heads up the last set have speaker panels have been claimed. Thanks everyone for participating.
  7. Family Portrait. V1 V2 V3 I snapped this before I shipped V3 to Rebello and V2 went for a visit to it's owner. Probably (hopefully) the last time they will be all together. My feeble attempt at an art shot Things move pretty quick around these parts:)
  8. Another Dash Restoration

    I went the patch method as well and like others it just cracks in a new spot. Here is a pretty long how to on bonding a dash cap to my dash. It's been over a year and up until I trashed the head it was sitting outside daily in the florida heat. There are no signs of delimitation. Not the cheapest rout but if you do it right it's probably the last time you will need to do it. Derek http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125411-advanced-dash-recover-project/
  9. Mr Monkey you really need to pay better attention. Post #1116 clearly shows VCT being implemented. You are receiving 1 demerit Here is one of the pics to make it easier
  10. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    Yes it is. Pm me when you donate and I'll get ahold of Dan. Patience may be in order though since there seems to be some lag between the donation and it actually posting. Thanks for supporting!
  11. A mopared DATSUN

    Geez Paul you haven't posted since 2015 and this is all we get:)
  12. Affordable ITB's anyone.

    I think the throttle bodies with the built in bungs are the way to go if you already have a DCOE manifold. For me at the time the kit was appealing because I knew I wouldn't be constrained design wise. Now if I was going to do it all over again....Heritage Throttle Body all the way. That is as long as they get around to doing it in 48mm like they said.
  13. Affordable ITB's anyone.

    When you add up all of the stuff in the kit purchasing them piecemeal the price goes up quite a bit. Now if you are going to discard some of the parts like linkage then it makes better sense to buy individual. Also the ones you linked to have a built in injector bung. Which is a plus if you want it. The kit I got requires bungs in the manifold which is what I wanted.
  14. Affordable ITB's anyone.

    I'm happy with mine for sure. One of the butterflies is slightly off center and it has a little stick-age problem if you run closed blade idle bypass but if you crack the blades for your idle it's not a problem. The outer edges of the bodies were sharp but that was fine as I just hit them with a deburing tool. The kit had everything I needed to get it working. I did manage to knock one of the velocity stacks off of its base but it snapped right back on and never was a problem again. I had about 6000 miles on them before my head $hit the bed. I think for the money they are the best deal out there.
  15. I'm running the Melling M111. I did some volume tests and was pretty satisfied with it's output. No hard numbers just testing when I was initially setting up my DOHC head. Derek
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