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Showing results for tags 'efi conversion'.
Well I have decided on ITB for my 240z build. My triple Mikuni 44s sound cool, but the smell of gas in my garage is driving me nuts. My HVAC unit is right next to my car in my garage and the fumes seem to move into the whole house. I also think the mikuni 44s are a bit much for a stock 2.4L, and I never dialed them in perfectly. I bought the jenvy 45s, injectors etc.. from Datsun Spirit. I will probably do a haltech elite 750 ecu. I got a hoke trigger kit for my stock 240z pulley and will do some sort of cam sensor from the dizzy spot. Goal is to look basically period but be EFI. I will re use my SK intake.
I recently was back in the states rejuvenating a 66 T-Bird with an FI-Tech EFI conversion. It's like Atomic EFI, one of those with the computer and everything in the four barrel body. I was VERY impressed at the build quality and utility of their 'Command Center 2' fuel surge tank. It's got gauges, nice fittings, submerged fuel pump, and was really easy to put into place. For all the hassle of making up a dumb tank that is just a swirl pot, this one has a pump that will support 600 hp and a matched pump for the back of the car to push the fuel up to it from a carbed tank...quiet quiet quiet too! it's at Jegs and Summit, around $395. The difference in this thing is that it LOOKS like it's supposed to be under the hood. In the T-Bird it looked like a piece of A/C Gear. They have a dual-pump surge tank, and a regular surge tank ($299) which also have a nice, finished OEM Look to them. The return fitting is absolutely genius, being an aluminum threaded bung with a crush sleeve, drill a hole in your tank, slip the sealing washer in place, tighten the bolt and it pulls up the bottom of the fitting tight against your tank (or fuel filler neck...) tightly similar to how a pop-rivet or nutzert works, remove the bolt once tight, and screw in your AN fitting! Easy as falling over! https://fitechefi.com/products/40004/
Hey guys, I recently bought a 240z and it ended up having more rust than I originally thought, thus begins my new winter project. Pulling her home with my 1987 2WD Toyota Pickup. That was a long haul between northeast of Sacramento and Southern California. The truck performed well though! The car sat for a while and the engine internals have rusted. The overview plan is to pull the engine, fix the front half of the car's rust problems, swap the SUs from the L24 to my rebuilt L28, install the engine, and drive it while fixing other things (interior). Some hood damage. Hopefully I can bump these out. Starting to inspect for rust on the passenger side frame rail/firewall interface. It's definitely in need of some work. Inside engine bay rail. Engine removal In preparation for cutting into frame rails I dropped the front suspension to remove as much stressed from the rails as possible. Stand I welded up to support car from the transmission mounts. I've made a little more progress -- started making patch panel templates and cutting metal from the battery tray area. It looks like I'm going to be replacing a lot of metal around the battery tray area -- frame rail, battery tray inner fender, a piece of the firewall, and passenger side floor pan. Hopefully driver side isn't this bad.
When you guys have done a 240z to EFI conversion whether it's MS or stock ECUs where do you route the EFI harness through the firewall? Do you cut a new hole near the brake booster or repurpose another hole? Looking for ideas. Thanks