yellowoctupus

First of all Inferoman, great pictures, keep em coming! Got any updates? What did you find as far as clearances go between the exhaust manifold and the steering? I've got a 4.6L SOHC I'm planning on putting into my 78Z (as it REALLY doesn't fit in my wife's 65 Stang like I had planned.... ) I know my engine is a little narrower than the DOHC, but still want to learn from everybody else first.

Hey Hammer man, did you ever get this thing hooked up? I'm trying to get a 4.6 5sp that's up for sale locally, and I'd rather have it to wake up my 280 than my wife's 65 Mustang and wanted to know what you had to do to get it to work.

Just out of curiosity, why not use Eaton's existing design, where you have the bypass valve (internal or external)? Parasitic losses are pretty low on the M62's when you're just spinning the rotors producing little to no pressure. As well, you wouldn't have a need for any TPS PID loops etc, you can run directly off manifold vacuum. High vacuum (idling or low load = open bypass valve, low vacuum/boost/high load = closed valve). If you're not using an Eaton SC, you can still use one of their external bypass setups, I'm pretty sure the Ford 3.8's were external, the GM 3.8's were all internal as far as I can tell. http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/maps/M62power.gif This is the power consumption graph on the older M62's, (3rd gen I think) As you can see, even if you're running a 2:1 pulley ratio, at 3,000 engine rpm WITH 5psi it's 7hp. With no boost, it's going to be even less than that. (besides, by 3,000 I think you'd want something to be going on).

It just goes to any vacuum port on your manifold. The vacuum should be the same from your intake runners to the back of the throttle plate, so if you somehow can't find the missing vacuum port end, you can tee in with another 1/8" vacuum line. (all auto parts stores sell tees right with the vac. line). Not having your advance hooked up right can definitely make things lag.

Just get them from a junkyard. Most pick and pull places will charge you $5 for the biggest wad of wires you can hold. (from fuse holder ends to injector plugs) My favorite bosch plugs (if they're bosch injectors) are the ones GM uses, they have a big spring loaded quick release that is 100% easier to use than the old Datsun POS corrode-a-clips. PS. if you do go a junkyardin, make sure you take one injector with you. I have a few bosch style plugs that DO NOT fit, as they're 'keyed' differently. Same connection, the injector just won't go into the boot.

Here's a few update shots, let me know if anybody's interested in the manifold as it's off the car, and the stock manifold is back on (m62 eaton).

Hey I know this is a super old post, I ended up after making custom headers and finishing up that manifold taking it off the car as I had gotten laid off (earlier this year) and didn't have the money at the time to do it right. Besides, there were a few things I would have done differently. SO...I am thinking of mounting mine something like Frank280zx did over there on the battery side. How did that part of the project end up working for you?

I'm going to keep the stock cam in mine, as it's still going to be a street car. If you're going for all out drag, or race applications, it'd probably be better to swap in the turbo cam. Turbo engines are designed for max horsepower (as opposed to blower engines, for max torque), and as you know, part of the horsepower equation is RPMs. Since they are trying to create high torque at a high rpm, at low rpms the pressurized inlet charge of a blown engine will force it right through and out the open exhaust valve during the overlap time. This is of course good for scavenging, but can be detrimental to Catylic converters and adversely affects gas mileage. (I got a bit of this from A.Graham's Forced Induction Performance Tuning)

It's been a while since I've seen a used turbo that isn't grenaded or covered in oil..looks good here too!

Thanks for the HUGE list of tuning tips. Gotta remember to print this off and stick it with my Datsun Fuel Injection book. I wonder why it's so necessary to have the TPS at al when it's relying so heavily on AFM inputs. I understand why its there for emissions (deaccelerating etc), perhaps the AFM signal is too bouncy at low RPM's, but I wouldn't have thought it'd do much for WOT.

Since everybody else's knocking the T5, I had one in my old S10 and beat the absolute S*** out of that thing. Always shifted perfect. Granted it wasn't a high horsepower item, but I like the way the T5 shifter went into the gearbox better than the Nissan unit in my 78 (stock) The nissan linkages seem kinda rattley, even though I've taken it apart looking for worn parts, it just seems like a cheesy design. (I'd be right behind you though, using the Nissan... hey it drops right in. IF you have a problem later, then look into using your spare. )

Yeah, I know it's not ideal, I'm just cobbing it together to make sure all the belts etc work, then switching to my MS later (of which I'm still a little intimidated about, need to do more learnin' etc). I'm running brown top 250cc zxt injectors and the zxt fuel regulator (I have an adjustable if need be as well) so they shouldn't freak out and run way lean hopefully.

I was going to put an 81 zxt afm on my 78 280z supercharged engine (stock ecu), but can't figure out if my wiring will be ok. My 78 afm has 7 prongs, however the stock harness only uses 5 of those. I have a 80zx afm that only has those 5 prongs, and my 81zxt only uses 4. By my wiring diagrams, it looks like it misses the reference voltage postive side! (obviously I'm wrong here somewhere!) What's wrong with this picture?? Can I just plug it in to my harness as is, or do I have to make a switch somewhere or something....?

Hey Brian, looks like the race is on! (I'm almost where you are in my SC setup, but stock electronics for now.) Your setup looks awesome, I can't wait to see how it works!!

Hey Bradman- I was planning on doing exactly the same thing with my COP GSXR coils (although I need two more to complete my set..), just run wasted spark, and wire sets together. One thing however- should they be wired in series or parallel? I was planning parallel, as I wanted to get their primary resistances down to the normal coil pack restance level (common Ford coil pack primary res is 0.3-1.0 (ford spec) and the GSXR coils are .8-2.5 (suzuki spec)) (cutting the resistance in half as all of my GSXR primarys measured 1.5ohm, this gets them down into the ford spec range). And, if one of the coils was defective, wiring them in series would knock both of them out, like those cheesy xmas tree lights that are wired in series...grrah....

Hey Mark, great find. I haven't heard of Rotrex before, but they are part of Maersk, which is a huge manufacturing company, they make a lot of CNC machines (as well as who knows what else) so at least they're probably not a fly by night company.

Considering the draw-thru idea, you can actually help keep your rotors cooler and increase the sealing of rotors at the rotor case [bell, Forced Induction Performance Tuning ]. (And it's been done since the beginning of time just about (1924).)

BOV necessity depends on what supercharger you use. With the GM M62 I have, it has a bypass valve built into the supercharger itself (actually like a throttle butterfly) which works off a vacuum acuator (which I think is hooked up via vacuum hose to the intake manifold). With this hooked up, you should only get boost under acceleration, when manifold vacuum is low. When vacuum is high (constant speed, deacceleration), it pulls the actuator and bypass valve open.

I haven't read Corkey Bell's book, but A.Graham Bell (no, not THE Alexander Graham Bell, but another one I guess) came out with a pretty good book too, Forced Induction Tuning.

FMU is a Fuel Management Unit. (Adjustable fuel pressure) It's still vacuum/ boost goverened, but you can bump up the spring pressure on the diaphragm. If you're planning on only going to 7/8 lbs of boost (super or turbocharged, makes no difference) , you may be able to use a turbo regulator, as it will still regulate fuel off of vacuum AND boost pressure (as long as you have the corresponding turbo (brown top) injectors).

Yeah, thankfully I got all the welding/machining done before I graduated, I went to an engineering school with a real good machine shop. (otherwise I don't have the machinery to do that either! It's an M62...I think 2nd gen, but not certain. Same as you, got it for 70$ on ebay.

I'd like to post a new picture of the finished manifold, but my wireless is bein crazy (i'll be lucky if I can get this to post while it's on). I've got some old pictures at my website , http://www.geocities.com/yellowoctupus ,under the car section. What are the diameters of your two pulleys? I did the calculations for diameters etc, but wasn't really sure what effeciency numbers to use. I'm looking to run what you've got, around 7/8 psi.

hey, don't end it now! I just found it today!! I'm putting an M62 on my 78 right now, I did it a little differently, cut up a stock 81 manifold and made a custom mount for it direct, but a lot of routings etc are similar. Did that v/serp pulley come on the zx you mentioned, or did you cobb them together?

Holy wow that is a huge intercooler. I'm quite sure I've never seen one this large on a car so small! Great cooling I guess, but won't that cause huge lag time getting that volume to pressurize? I can see you have an equally large turbo back there too, but still!

I do agree that the main problem was definetly the plugged radiator, and that probably anything I did besides fix the radiator would not significantly lower the temp. I should have thought that through before posting, sorry. On the other hand, the AC condensor's fins are relatively short and spread far apart; I think that unless the AC was on and creating heat (in which case you couldn't remove it either way of course) it won't do much as far as impeding flow goes.