yellowoctupus

Got transmission mount in, bolted up like a factory mount I just have to trim out a window for a casting lug on the transmission that is basically touching the front of the mount. Everything is lined up pretty straight too. I had to trim a tiny bit (~0.375" off the inside of one of the transmission mount hangers in the tunnel to kick the transmission over to the passenger side a little. The carpenters square (yellow) in the picture is butted on differential input flange. The scale was placed against the transmission output shaft and flipped over 180° to make sure the end of the scale was truly 90°. Surprisingly enough, it was. Here's a good reference on setting drivelines: http://jeep.zerok.ru/index.php?page=86

New Trans. Mount made up, fits like a glove. The original was stamped and welded steel, same as the mustang one, but this was a little easier, I guess. I am still a little curious if anyone has some thoughts on this one though, because my engine is offset towards the passenger side about an inch, the transmission is pointing slightly off center. Is this going to be a problem, or will it actually help the rollers in the universals rotate, and prevent them from "flat-ing"? By the way, this a 0.25" plate, being welded up to 1.25" hex, all being done with a 110V wire feed welder. PS. The holes in the plate are just because it's a scrap plate from something else. No function. If I get real ambitious maybe I'll weld em up too. Probably not though. Racing holes!

What is the best way to determine my transmission mounting height/ angle? I have the engine mounted, but I'm not sure what to do with my transmission mount.

ENGINE'S IN!!! I still have to make my tranny mount, but the engine is sitting on it's tacked together mount with a healthy 1/4" between the throttle body and the hood. Nothing like cutting it a little close. The stock Ford engine mount will work ok, it completely misses the steering, the only thing I have to figure out is how far back I can pull the engine and still get the pass. exhaust pipe through. Of course nothing's welded up here, I didn't take pictures of the tacked up stage yet, I'll take better pics once it's out, welded up and painted. It's got 3/16" angle about 13" long on both sides. If I can, I'll bolt the whole mount through the frame rail, that way I can drop the engine down, lock it to the mount, then slide the mount with the engine in another inch or so towards the back of the car.

My harmonic balancer lines up with the rack and pinion right now. The 4.6 should be about 23 5/8" long, from what I could find online the 302 is 29" long. ( Popular American Engine Sizes Modular Engine Sizes ) I'm actually going to try to pull my motor back a little further now that I have my mounts made. I think I can get another inch back, as right now my shifter is lining up like yours, partially covered by the front of the 'shifter hole' in the tunnel. (ps, I think when I saw the "el rancho" in your post I was thinking el camino, hence the bowtie swap comment...)

Is your shifter still coming up through the hole in the floor at all? I'm not doing a bowtie conversion, but I know my shifter is going to be a little (2") forward from where stock was. You can always run an older style shifter: http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3999584/2006/10/19/T5_shifter11.jpg Although this is a little extreme, I think it's how I'm going to remedy my too forward shifter. If I remember right, you can unbolt the shifter arm from the knuckle box on the T5, right? That will help a lot if you're going to make a custom shifter arm or just heat up and bend yours.

FYI, the whole straps around the engine works great for picking it up, just make sure you don't put a strap over the starter, I broke off the bendix engager unit on mine...so now I need a new starter Working on engine mounts, I'll post some pictures as soon as I get them going. It looks like with the engine sitting against the front crossmember, that I have at least an inch between the TB and the hood, so I'll probably space up my engine 0.5"-0.75" from where it's sitting now. I'm going to use what I can from the stock front clip, as the deep part of the oil pan is inline with the engine mounts, so if I make a custom one, it's got to be one with a big offset etc, etc. I'll probably see if I can use the original for now, and take good notes, maybe build up a new one later ....maybe

Hey Otto, Which relay is sticking? You posted a few wiring diagrams, with lots of relays, but I don't think you're using hardly any, if you've got a carb'd points engine. (Is this also the case?)

I don't see why you can't keep the AC compressor or P/S pump (if you are going to use hydraboost brakes, etc). Some of the pictures in my build show that area is wide open. At most, you'd have to remove the stock engine mounts. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/97812-460zgt-project-build/

No it will not. The 4.6L mod motor is COMPLETELY different.

This here's a story 'bout a man with a Z (and a Mustang GT).... Ok, so enough hillbilly songs, I've pulled down my perfectly good running driving 78Z and started putting in the 1996 2 cam Mustang 4.6L V8. It's paired up to the T45 5sp tranny. Pics so far are with the engine sitting in the engine bay, not yet mounted. Looks promising though. As an FYI, I couldn't find any bolt holes I really felt good about picking up by, so the rope/ tow strap around the engine worked great! ( I recently dropped a 302/C6 tranny combo because a grade 8 (flawed?) bolt sheared in half, dropping the assy from 4 ft to the ground. Ouch.) As I go through making motor mounts etc, I'll post as many pictures/ dimensions as I can.

Wow, quite a bit higher than I expected, (with the eminent hood scoop and all...) If the engine was forward a few inches, could you drop it down lower? I wasn't sure if you were trading off engine height clearance with CG issues?

Brakes later man, this bigger engine is going in to make the car 'go' more, not 'stop' more!

Nice test fit pics Rich, did you have your exhaust manifolds on when you fit it, and where were you putting your lift straps to? This engine SUCKS for good lift points (going over those crazy composite valve covers...grr..) Does anyone with S30/ S130 experience know how the engine bays differ, if at all? Steering was one subject that really had me worried, but it looks like it's no problem in the ZX. (I think I'm about 2 weeks off from pulling my engine.)

How big was the hydraulic booster out of the Crown vic? I know the 96 Mustang I pulled my engine out of had one... (PS, as long as you don't limit the travel of the booster piston, I would think the effectiveness would remain the same, you still have the same amount of vacuum acting on the same surface area diaphragm. (F=P*A)

I don't have a driveshaft yet, but I was planning on using my extra 240z shaft and having it mated to a junkyard ford ds. Probably going to use the stock R200 until that gives up the ghost. Mine won't be a drag car ever, just a street car with more oompha.

Rich, you've got a dohc I take it? (just want to clarify from your post). I don't think wiring will be your biggest concern (yes, of course it needs to be figured out, and when you look at it all together it looks horrific, but I think once you classify groups of wires, it won't be that bad.) What is the width of the 'frame rails' running through the engine bay of the z? I have the whole front clip from my mustang engine sitting on the floor, I was thinking of taking some measurements off that and getting a rough idea of what motor mounts will look like. Somebody on this forum made a cradle for their 302, I think that would be a smart way of mounting this one too, if it all fits. I take it you have an auto tranny with this too?

I fabbed up an intake for a direct mount SC a few years ago, but never finished that project...make sure you wrap or ceramic coat those headers, the heat will soak into your intake like CRAZY!! BTW, I like your innercooler. That was one of the things I couldn't figure out where to put. (I had my SC mounted vertically, and didn't have room the way I made the manifold to fit an innercooler in there.)

WOW TimZ, that is the mother of all intakes. What kind of airflow does that thing provide?

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/685492/1972-datsun-240z-bfe-ne-us Pretty old post, no finished pictures, but somebody else out there STARTED this project. Man, does anyone ever finish it???

That's good to know. Once I get this engine in, if I'm REALLY still hungry for power, I can pickup an extra ~65 ponies that way.(although I'm sure I'll just want to drive the car, I hate it when it's sitting disassembled in the garage.) My wife's Mustang is slated to be painted over Thanksgiving (that's 1st in the garage work pecking order) so hopefully before the holidays I can look at pulling my z engine out.

Out of curiosity, can the DOHC heads be swapped onto the SOHC block?

Steering is the biggest thing I'm really worried about. I searched around the forum for pictures of steering mods, but somehow couldn't find any good examples. If I can do exhaust work and get something to fit, I can do that, but if the steering has to be relocated, I have no idea how to do that. (It's out of the rain now too )

Soooo....I ended up bringing home that 4.6 SOHC. The price was right and it WONT even fit in my wife's mustang. (Unless I remove the shock towers and put in a Mustang II front end..not gonna happen though!

Whoa, bummer on the arthritis. I was 20 when I bought my Z too... Thanks for the insight on the exhaust. I have to get my wife's 65 mustang finished before I pull out the 2.8, but that 4.6 is now sitting on my garage floor, staring at me. IF that's not incentive to get the pony car going, I don't know what is! Hope you get your crunchy joints under control, and can get back working on the Z.