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Matt 78Z

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About Matt 78Z

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 11/15/1974

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  • Location
    Asheville NC
  1. Matt 78Z

    Reviving #5837.

    JB Weld, I've seen people do some serious patch work with it.
  2. Matt 78Z

    Dash repair 78 280Z

    That looks like new! I can't tell for sure, did you cover the complete top and front with the carbon? I thought about fiberglass for mine as I haven't worked with carbon. I'm a little afraid to take on this project, although my dash looks like yours did so I don't know if I could make it much worse.
  3. I meant if you had paid someone to do your car to the extent your doing it, that adds up fast. Cost of materials has to be added in as well. We don't seem to have many shops that do true restorations like you are doing, that is a dying trade. Most places do quick in and out insurance jobs. I'm looking forward to seeing your car done, nice work.
  4. Impressive! I saw a 280 on Kuaui a few months ago. It was pretty rough but someone was starting to work on it. I wonder what it would cost to have a body restored as in-depth as you are doing yours?
  5. Very Nice! I'd be afraid to put that on the track!
  6. Matt 78Z

    Leon's Other 260Z

    Thanks Leon, I'm with you that price is not that bad and he seems like a solid guy. I guess I should clarify what I mean. I'm wondering if the difference in performance between Keith's products and the weber parts will be significant enough to justify the cost to take it to that next level. I don't really have tractability issues, I'm not sure how much better it can get and I'm not concerned about 10 peak hp. If I can gain torque across the board that interest me. I am also with you on liking the old school carbs so If I can improve them substantially then that may be enough to cure my itch of tinkering. Thanks for being the guinea pig!
  7. Matt 78Z

    Leon's Other 260Z

    Hi Leon, are you using any of Keith's jets/tubes yet? I'm curious as to how they perform. I've thought about buying some but the cost is rather high and I feel like I a ITB conversion might be more cost effective. I'm reluctant though as I like not having any computers in my car. Very nice Z!
  8. Matt 78Z

    What classic car insurance do you use?

    I just want to say thanks for this info. I am about to look into my insurance. It seems like Grundy is the way to go from what I'm reading.
  9. As the title says I am trying to get the updated version of his wonderful wiring diagram. I have the first version. For some reason when I click on his download link it takes me to a page saying my account doesn't have access. I've been a member here for a long time. I don't have many post simply because I haven't had much free time and my car is pretty sorted out. I am in no way going to use his work for profit, I'm trying to figure out what is going on with a friends 77 and wiring is not my natural talent! Thanks to anyone who can help me. Matt [email protected]
  10. Matt 78Z

    Home made triple carb heat shield

    I used the stock heat shield from a 78 by cutting the outer edge off. This left me with the already formed head/intake side. From there I riveted stainless sheet to extend it out all the way beyond the carbs. It then takes a 90 down to the frame rail. Effectively blocking the header from the carbs and brake lines. Pretty much you can't see my header, unless looking straight in from the front. The head/intake stock shield is simply wedged in and very tight. I did cut a slot on each end at the head side and use worm clamps to clamp the shield to the 1st and last header primary tube. No part of it touch's the carbs. The lower portion is actually secured to the frame rail, spaced out a bit via some silicone washers. My carbs stay cool to the touch, you can rest your hand on the bottom of them after running it for hours. I have no rattles and it's been this way for 10 years.
  11. Matt 78Z

    I need suspension help

    Wow, I was away from the pc for a day and I get all this! 1. Yes I am going too fast into the corner, most of the time. I tried various speeds and lines. The best seemed to be swing it wide under no throttle then as it straightened out roll into the throttle. -Doing this it will push the front tires but no where near as bad as when I try to take it tight around the cone. 2. The majority of the time I can keep cranking on the wheel and feel the tires biting, one of my favorite things about these cars. When they start to slide I either back off just enough to keep it turning, or depending I can give it more throttle and slide the back around. 3. Really unless we are talking 180's or tighter it is fairly neutral. I try to go by the "if you can still turn in your not going fast enough and if you can't still turn in your going to fast" idea. In most cases I am able to hold the car to this line. 4. At the moment the tires are worn out, I'm taking that into account. I've had it on A6's so I know how much better it will stick with the same configuration and it is significantly better. However the understeer is still there. This is why I'm thinking I can make a few minor mods and get it better. 5. I was running too much pressure. I dropped the fronts to 30psi down from 36(normal street setting) and the rear I have at 34, at 36 the rear was pretty loose. This helped front bite and calmed the rear enough to feel more balanced. 6. I have been adjusting the illumina's. I run the back 1 or 2 settings stiffer than the front, this is helping to rotate the rear as well. So it sounds like I'm going in the right direction, I just need a few parts and to better my driving. I had this car down for a year and have to admit that I'm slower than the car and late, so getting back more seat time will help. I'd never seen the front strut bracing, looks like something to do. I saw the pictures of the rear bracing and am leaning towards that as well. I did think about trying the stock rear sway bar. I'm going to get camber plates and add caster also. I'm gonna hold off on the subframe re-drilling till I try these other methods. I'm going to slow down and use 2nd gear more Oh and get some darn tires! Thank you, you've given me lots of good info and things to try. I'll report back with progress, normally I try one thing at a time like making carb adjustments.
  12. Matt 78Z

    I need suspension help

    Moving the front control pickup points. Redrill the bolt holes up 5/16" and out 1/4". As I read this helps correct bumpsteer on a lowered car and gives you a little more negative camber. I've seen this mod mentioned for years, I believe it comes out of the JTR manual also. Thanks John
  13. Matt 78Z

    I need suspension help

    Camber plates are my 1st priority. Leon, not arguing just wanting to figure this out. I understeer on 180 turns. At our current autox there is 1 turn where you have a small box and single inside cone to basically pivot around. I understeer here it seems no matter how slow I go. I'm watching many other cars just rotate right around it while going faster. Then on a larger radius 180 I still plow but in this turn the box is much larger so I have room to kick the back around with the throttle. However after doing such my back end is rolling up enough that the inside tire is totally unloaded and spins till I let off (this is what I was told would not happen). In the slalom it turns good, gets into oversteer easy now. Like you say with the weight transfer taking load off the inside with the bar, I seem to be opposite. I'm doing more 1 wheel peels than ever, coming out of turns even sweepers and launching. So this has me confused. I guess I don't understand the physics enough but I thought the ARB would actually keep the back tires more planted by not allowing the body to shift. Thought that was their whole point really. I wish someone would talk about the subframe mod, I actually have time to do that this weekend if it's worthwhile. Right now my control arms are parallel with the ground, as I understand they should be angled more like stock with the chassis side higher than the wheel side. Plus I know I can gain some - camber. Since no ones talked about that portion of my novel here it leaves me wondering if it's not a good thing to do. Also does it help any to have a slight rake with the front being at most 1/2" lower than the rear? I used to have that, now I'm using the 240 upper rear strut mounts so the rake is gone. My driving needs to improve also, I'm entering many of the corners too fast leaving me with an upset car - I'm working on that as well - alot! I really appriciate yall's advice and experience.
  14. Matt 78Z

    I need suspension help

    Thank you Jon, Any advise to the subframe mods? How about the sway bar debate? I've been reading about droup limiters, might be a good alternative to the sway bar. As you can probably tell I'm just getting into moving past the basics, I'm reading the sticky thread for the 3rd time now! adjustable TC rods and arms are on the list.
  15. I have some blue tokico's and MSA's. Didn't nissan offer 2 spring choices besides the euro's back in the old comp catalogs? Yellows and blues, back in the day, just different rates. I did the same thing, bought a parts cars, had what I believe to be stock springs in the rear and some yellows in the front. They are shorter and stronger, than stock, for sure but I don't know the maker. Maybe we can get together and have a full set!
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