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Matt 78Z

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About Matt 78Z

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 11/15/1974

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  • Location
    Asheville NC
  1. Matt 78Z

    Leon's Other 260Z

    Thanks Leon, I'm with you that price is not that bad and he seems like a solid guy. I guess I should clarify what I mean. I'm wondering if the difference in performance between Keith's products and the weber parts will be significant enough to justify the cost to take it to that next level. I don't really have tractability issues, I'm not sure how much better it can get and I'm not concerned about 10 peak hp. If I can gain torque across the board that interest me. I am also with you on liking the old school carbs so If I can improve them substantially then that may be enough to cure my itch of tinkering. Thanks for being the guinea pig!
  2. Matt 78Z

    Leon's Other 260Z

    Hi Leon, are you using any of Keith's jets/tubes yet? I'm curious as to how they perform. I've thought about buying some but the cost is rather high and I feel like I a ITB conversion might be more cost effective. I'm reluctant though as I like not having any computers in my car. Very nice Z!
  3. Matt 78Z

    What classic car insurance do you use?

    I just want to say thanks for this info. I am about to look into my insurance. It seems like Grundy is the way to go from what I'm reading.
  4. As the title says I am trying to get the updated version of his wonderful wiring diagram. I have the first version. For some reason when I click on his download link it takes me to a page saying my account doesn't have access. I've been a member here for a long time. I don't have many post simply because I haven't had much free time and my car is pretty sorted out. I am in no way going to use his work for profit, I'm trying to figure out what is going on with a friends 77 and wiring is not my natural talent! Thanks to anyone who can help me. Matt [email protected]
  5. Matt 78Z

    Home made triple carb heat shield

    I used the stock heat shield from a 78 by cutting the outer edge off. This left me with the already formed head/intake side. From there I riveted stainless sheet to extend it out all the way beyond the carbs. It then takes a 90 down to the frame rail. Effectively blocking the header from the carbs and brake lines. Pretty much you can't see my header, unless looking straight in from the front. The head/intake stock shield is simply wedged in and very tight. I did cut a slot on each end at the head side and use worm clamps to clamp the shield to the 1st and last header primary tube. No part of it touch's the carbs. The lower portion is actually secured to the frame rail, spaced out a bit via some silicone washers. My carbs stay cool to the touch, you can rest your hand on the bottom of them after running it for hours. I have no rattles and it's been this way for 10 years.
  6. Matt 78Z

    I need suspension help

    Wow, I was away from the pc for a day and I get all this! 1. Yes I am going too fast into the corner, most of the time. I tried various speeds and lines. The best seemed to be swing it wide under no throttle then as it straightened out roll into the throttle. -Doing this it will push the front tires but no where near as bad as when I try to take it tight around the cone. 2. The majority of the time I can keep cranking on the wheel and feel the tires biting, one of my favorite things about these cars. When they start to slide I either back off just enough to keep it turning, or depending I can give it more throttle and slide the back around. 3. Really unless we are talking 180's or tighter it is fairly neutral. I try to go by the "if you can still turn in your not going fast enough and if you can't still turn in your going to fast" idea. In most cases I am able to hold the car to this line. 4. At the moment the tires are worn out, I'm taking that into account. I've had it on A6's so I know how much better it will stick with the same configuration and it is significantly better. However the understeer is still there. This is why I'm thinking I can make a few minor mods and get it better. 5. I was running too much pressure. I dropped the fronts to 30psi down from 36(normal street setting) and the rear I have at 34, at 36 the rear was pretty loose. This helped front bite and calmed the rear enough to feel more balanced. 6. I have been adjusting the illumina's. I run the back 1 or 2 settings stiffer than the front, this is helping to rotate the rear as well. So it sounds like I'm going in the right direction, I just need a few parts and to better my driving. I had this car down for a year and have to admit that I'm slower than the car and late, so getting back more seat time will help. I'd never seen the front strut bracing, looks like something to do. I saw the pictures of the rear bracing and am leaning towards that as well. I did think about trying the stock rear sway bar. I'm going to get camber plates and add caster also. I'm gonna hold off on the subframe re-drilling till I try these other methods. I'm going to slow down and use 2nd gear more Oh and get some darn tires! Thank you, you've given me lots of good info and things to try. I'll report back with progress, normally I try one thing at a time like making carb adjustments.
  7. Matt 78Z

    I need suspension help

    Moving the front control pickup points. Redrill the bolt holes up 5/16" and out 1/4". As I read this helps correct bumpsteer on a lowered car and gives you a little more negative camber. I've seen this mod mentioned for years, I believe it comes out of the JTR manual also. Thanks John
  8. Matt 78Z

    I need suspension help

    Camber plates are my 1st priority. Leon, not arguing just wanting to figure this out. I understeer on 180 turns. At our current autox there is 1 turn where you have a small box and single inside cone to basically pivot around. I understeer here it seems no matter how slow I go. I'm watching many other cars just rotate right around it while going faster. Then on a larger radius 180 I still plow but in this turn the box is much larger so I have room to kick the back around with the throttle. However after doing such my back end is rolling up enough that the inside tire is totally unloaded and spins till I let off (this is what I was told would not happen). In the slalom it turns good, gets into oversteer easy now. Like you say with the weight transfer taking load off the inside with the bar, I seem to be opposite. I'm doing more 1 wheel peels than ever, coming out of turns even sweepers and launching. So this has me confused. I guess I don't understand the physics enough but I thought the ARB would actually keep the back tires more planted by not allowing the body to shift. Thought that was their whole point really. I wish someone would talk about the subframe mod, I actually have time to do that this weekend if it's worthwhile. Right now my control arms are parallel with the ground, as I understand they should be angled more like stock with the chassis side higher than the wheel side. Plus I know I can gain some - camber. Since no ones talked about that portion of my novel here it leaves me wondering if it's not a good thing to do. Also does it help any to have a slight rake with the front being at most 1/2" lower than the rear? I used to have that, now I'm using the 240 upper rear strut mounts so the rake is gone. My driving needs to improve also, I'm entering many of the corners too fast leaving me with an upset car - I'm working on that as well - alot! I really appriciate yall's advice and experience.
  9. Matt 78Z

    I need suspension help

    Thank you Jon, Any advise to the subframe mods? How about the sway bar debate? I've been reading about droup limiters, might be a good alternative to the sway bar. As you can probably tell I'm just getting into moving past the basics, I'm reading the sticky thread for the 3rd time now! adjustable TC rods and arms are on the list.
  10. I have some blue tokico's and MSA's. Didn't nissan offer 2 spring choices besides the euro's back in the old comp catalogs? Yellows and blues, back in the day, just different rates. I did the same thing, bought a parts cars, had what I believe to be stock springs in the rear and some yellows in the front. They are shorter and stronger, than stock, for sure but I don't know the maker. Maybe we can get together and have a full set!
  11. Trying to at least help reduce understeer with what i have. I've read where people say you shouldn't run the rear sway bar on a autoX car, well even a track car. Supposed to keep both rears planted and reduce understeer... Well I've been messing with mine. Unhook it, feels ok, not as tight and does not transition as fast or flat. I don't know that I can tell any difference in the understeer, still pushes I'd say the same. But now leaving the turn my back is rolling/pitching. I have to wait for the car to settle back down before getting on the gas or I just burn the tires off. I don't remember it doing this with the sway bar. It always felt settled and seemed to rotate easier. Here's what it is; 78 3.0L illuminas 200lb front and 225 rear springs 1" front 7/8" rear SB's urethane strut braces I know I need camber plates, right now I'm at -.7 all I can get at the moment I'm running a 1/4" total toe OUT in front and 1/8" toe IN on the rear. Ball and socket TC bushings - so I guess that leaves it around stock castor? Maybe I should shim for more? I have not modded the subframe yet. I"ve read to move the pick up points 5/16th up and 1/4 out - good idea? I can notice a difference adjusting the illumina's and make it understeer less but I'm still plowing trying to turn with the miata's and M3's. I also adjust tire pressures and was able to help a decent bit that way, by taking air out of the front. Oh yeah, with the bar unhooked I'm getting more 1 wheel peels and slower launches also. Yes I need the OBX unit, that is coming soon. I'm not sure how that will play into the understeer issue? I'm considering doing the subframe mod and using stock rubber bushings in my front control arms, thinking that it will be more compliant and allow for more castor adjustment and negative camber via the subframe. Can I do anything until I buy camber plates and a bump steer kit and LSD? Thank you Matt
  12. Matt 78Z

    SR20 transmissions

    Thanks, It is completely stock, no mods for conversion. Looks like I can get it cheap. I'm reading about the changes and am wondering if it's worth it. I'll be going with an LS1 next year. If you know someone who wants one let me know.
  13. Matt 78Z

    SR20 transmissions

    I've been looking at the SR20 tranny swap. Got a guy with one and I'm wondering what the going rate is. It is clean and in good condition. He won't come up with a price and I don't want to overpay. I don't see prices searching zcar or hybrid, there is a nice write up on installation here that is helpful. Thanks Matt
  14. Matt 78Z

    I got a fuel injection problem

    Hello, I've been reading pages of info on this topic but have yet to find the exact answer. From you post it sounds like you would be the person to ask. I have a 78 with a carb setup. What I want to do is run the factory pump and wiring. I know of the 4 wire connector for the ECU and have heard of jumping a couple wires so the pump circuit is complete. I can't find which wires or if I'm even reading this right. Someone else also mentions the oil pressure sending unit completing the signal and that they had to do nothing under the dash. Do I actually have to jump anything or add relays? It seemed at one time I was using the stock wiring after removing the EFI and the pump was running. Actually, it's been 10 years, I think it ran good for a while, then it just quit and I was not getting power to the pump. So now it's ran of a switched hot wire which I would like to do away with for safety reasons. Any help is greatly appriciated. Thanks Matt
  15. Matt 78Z

    78 280 turbo project

    Yeah, I'll work on that this weekend.