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skerry

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About skerry

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    Baton Rouge, LA

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  1. 280z Parts

    I have a few items, these are from a 1976 280z Doors $250 http://imgur.com/FWqCalr http://imgur.com/4Lo78KA Door Panels Driver and Passenger side, great condition $190 shipped https://imgur.com/U3lfsIa https://imgur.com/NwJqcwk https://imgur.com/vgYlIz2 https://imgur.com/3hTThLR Steering Column Clamshell Great condition, no cracks, a couple of scuffs $50 shipped Sold https://imgur.com/0ttJWPk https://imgur.com/wvRyluG Hatch Emblems I have 2 of these, one in fair shape, the other in good. Both have one pin on the back. They are plastic. $40 shipped Fair https://imgur.com/W72qGWJ https://imgur.com/aKo2kAQ Good https://imgur.com/o3apOVj https://imgur.com/t2BE4s5 I have some other odds and ends, let me know what you need. Stephen
  2. 1971 240z Series 1

    I've decided to put a price of $5000 on the car. I'm going to continue working on the car and installing some of the parts that I have. The price will go up as some of that stuff is done. I went out and put power to the Vintage Air system that I have and it blows. I then spoke with them and they said that since it works I can send it in and they will go through it and let me know if there is anything that needs to be replaced/repaired. I'm going to add AC first which I'm hoping will add about $1000 in value. Next I will put in the 350z seats. Then I'm going to install the Diff. If I still have it I"m going to patch the floors. Then it will be onto the interior. Might end up keeping it after all that. What do you guys think about this?
  3. 1971 240z Series 1

    About a year ago I had finished the Mechanical and Interior on my car. I was ready to start on the exterior when a big flood hit and the car went underwater. I was able to save the engine and transmission but I had to rip out all of the interior. Over the past year I've bought a new house and I've worked on the car here and there but I need the money and I just don't have the drive to do it all again. I've decided to sell it but I have no idea what to ask. I'm not sure how the flood affects the value. Also, I've got some options for the car and I'd like you guys to give me your opinion on what makes it the most valuable. Exterior The previous owner decided to seam in the body kit which didn't work at all so the paint has chipped along almost all of the seams though some are worse than others and you need to be close up to see it. Also the fiberglass rear bumper was crushed when the car was delivered to me and the passenger side skirt was damaged in the flood and removed. http://imgur.com/AgcFT3G http://imgur.com/QWJ6oUV I've always loved the louvers on the 280z's so when I had the chance to grab one I did. I have the kit from JTR to install it but I'm having some trouble with distributor clearance and those guys aren't helpful at all. I still have the old one but it has a small dent in the middle and the PO installed hood pins. http://imgur.com/8PKJEW7 The rear of the car is in pretty good shape, there's some small rust spots on the bottom of the hatch but those can be fixed fairly easily. Only reason I didn't fix them is because I just noticed them while combing through the car. Tail lights are in good shape and the hatch shock works well. There is a flip down license plate holder and a hole cut behind it. The PO had run a gas filler hose from the fuel cell. http://imgur.com/kgTDjQW The rear tire wells have been tubbed about 4 inches so they will hold bigger tires. I'm not sure what this does to/for the value of the car but I wanted to mention it. Also, because the PO was making this a dragster the side lights, the door locks, the fuel door, and most of the emblems have been shaved from the side of the car. The mirrors on the side were some cheap chrome bullet mirrors I bought to hold me over until I redid the outside. They are trash now. I have a couple black ones that I planned to put on but haven't. http://imgur.com/ZfjUQhP http://imgur.com/k2F3y3O There are a couple additional rust spots externally. There is a spot that looks like rust where the fuel door used to be, I'm not sure if it's rust or bad bondo work. There are also some small rust bubbles on the bottom of the passenger door. The rear hatch is great, the battery area also has no rust at all. These are the only bits of rust I know of on the exterior. http://imgur.com/fvHBdU1 http://imgur.com/ec2Qfox The wheels and tires are pretty much new, less than 500 miles on them Drive Line The engine is a Chevy 350 that has less than 500 miles since it's last rebuild. It is a 4 bolt main. It has a Lunati Voodoo Cam and Comp Springs and lifters. It was spared by no small amount of work on my part. Lots of filling and draining to make sure it was completely free of water. New plugs of course. Carburetor was brand new but still got a rebuild. Wiring was replaced, a new starter was added. It now starts up and runs with no problems. http://imgur.com/Ztq53vz The fuel cell and fuel line was completely flushed and cleaned out. There is a Holley Red Fuel pump and a 15 gallon aluminum fuel cell in the back. http://imgur.com/kWRGL9N The transmission is a 700-R4 automatic. It was drained immediately after the flood and a new pan was put on with a drain plug so that I could drain it twice more. In it's last fill up there was no sign of water and it was filled with premium transmission fluid and seafoam trans tune additive. The shifter is a B&M Megashifter. It needs some adjustment. The car currently has the stock R180 diff but I've purchased an R200 with a mustache bar that I have not put on. I also have the Ron Tyler mount. I'm not sure if I should include this with the car or sell it separately as they seem to be getting harder to find. The rest of the suspension is bone stock as far as I know. http://imgur.com/fW6iTqi The brakes currently need to be bled, I cleaned out the master cylinder after the flood which left some air in the lines. Interior This has the most needs. I don't have any carpet or trim pieces to speak of. I stole the trim pieces off a 73 parts car only to find that they do not fit. http://imgur.com/qzp2lJ7 What I do have: Visors, kick panel speaker kit, door threshold plates, rear view mirror. Seats: I have original 240z seats in horrible condition, I also have some 280z seats in bad condition, I picked up some 350z seats that I was going to modify as well. I'm not sure which ones to sell with the car. I'm not sure if whoever the new owner is would want to modify the 350 seats or if they even add value. I'm thinking of just putting in the 240 seats and letting them be ugly. http://imgur.com/WqTDTDG http://imgur.com/jcqKgLq Steering Wheels: More options I have a Momo Prototipe Steering wheel with the adapter and I have the original series 1 wooden steering wheel without the holes cut and the horn pad. http://imgur.com/IsrGrL1 http://imgur.com/ibZmiCr So the drivers side had a patch in the floor that I didn't know about until I was ripping up the dynamat. The patch came up with it. I was going to cut it out and weld a piece in to replace it but I haven't gotten to it. The rest of the driver side floor area is good. http://imgur.com/4acGMgj http://imgur.com/p58tXy1 http://imgur.com/uv5RHQS The passenger side is in rougher shape but it's not rusted through. I'm not really sure how to describe it. There are some spots rusted along where the rails connect but the rails themselves are not rusted too bad. There is a hole in the same spot as the driver side. The floor feels solid. I was going to bring it to my welder and see if he could sure up some of the problem areas and fix the holes. *need pictures The dash is a plastic cover over a stock dash that was in bad shape. It has been glued to the original dash. The wiring needs to be cleaned up obviously but I'm still fighting the gauges. They are speedhut gauges which were in the car when it flooded. They turn on and seem to work fine but the fuse keeps blowing. I'm not sure if this is due to a short in the gauges or something else. I won't like advertise the gauges though they are really nice if they work. I have the glove compartment door but the compartment itself was destroyed. http://imgur.com/E1hT73M http://imgur.com/a/Fmd2T Additonal Parts: I was preparing to install AC when the car flooded. The Vintage air system that was brand new in the box flooded. I asked the company if there was any chance to save it, the guy said "Nope" but didn't really ask any questions. I asked if I could send it in for them to look at and he said not to waste his time. I assume it's junk but I also have the brackets for the AC compressor and the compressor itself. The compressor according to everyone is water tight and should be fine. I have the condenser as well which should be fine. Most of the weather stripping was taken off the car to be cleaned. I was planning to replace it but it's not in bad shape. Just more hassle than I thought it was worth. Plus I have some additional body parts. I have a passenger side door which has been completely sandblasted and primed. It has some pinhole rust at the bottom but I thought it might be an easier fix than the current door. Well that's it. Thank you if you've gotten this far. What I'm looking for from you guys is a value how it sits and which things I should focus on that would increase the value for the least amount of work. I'm planning on selling here and ebay. Thank you so much Stephen
  4. 1972 240z roller.

    I hate to ask now that it's sold, but you were asking $3000 not $30,000 right? It seems obvious but just in case...lol
  5. Datsun Badge 74-78

    I have one from a 76, it has one pin left on the back(the center one). I have no idea how much to ask though, I can't even find one to compare in a quick search.
  6. WTB - Door window roller for S30

    Do you have a picture of what you're needing. I have a pair of 76 doors out in my garage
  7. 72 Z with 383- good build?

    I like the car, what I would say is that the customization gives you some leverage in bartering. The front bumper mod, the exhaust, the hood are all things that are very particular to a persons taste and therefore limits the number of potential buyers. I know you said it's a great deal for California and someone else said they'd offer 9k. I'd probably offer 8,000 and not feel like I was low balling. They really are limited to number of potential buyers. The engine makes it worse. I love the 383, I have a 350 myself but the SBC engine appeals to less and less buyers. You're taking some risk with all the customization, don't feel bad about paying as little as you can.
  8. Advice on Diff

    Thanks guys, lots of great advice. I found a local 1979 280zx that I can pick up for cheap. I'm thinking I may get that so I will have all of the parts I need for the r200 conversion. I like the idea of upgrading the bushings as well. The car has a 700r4 so it's looking like the R200 makes the most sense at this point. I've had the Ron Tyler diff mount from Technovisions laying around for a while so the r200 still allows me to use that. Seems like it's all coming into place.
  9. Advice on Diff

    Well my car flooded, completely over the roof back in august. I've slowly been getting it back into shape. I'm ready to start doing some driving but I'm concerned about the diff. With the SBC I have in it, I wanted to upgrade it and change to a 3.54 ratio before the flood. Plus, there was a noise coming from back there that I suspect was a diff problem. I'm thinking of just getting an R200 and being done with it but wanted to see if anyone else had any other suggestions. I see OBX but that seems complicated along with the Ford IRS. The motor only makes about 370hp. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks Stephen
  10. My car flooded back in August, water all the way over the roof. My home also flooded and I lost both of the keys as well. I purchased one of these ignition and key sets off of ebay as a replacement. http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGNITION-SWITCH-STARTER-KEYS-SET-FIT-FOR-DATSUN-FAIRLADY-240Z-260Z-280Z/160976339870?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D796912b7eea645c0bcc4f8e61d45ed04%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D14%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D141873901731#rwid I also replaced the dash harness. When I turn the key to the start position I'm getting no power the the black/yellow wire at all. I assume this is going to be a switch issue but wanted to ask. I do have power to the White/Red cable throughout the start process. Any ideas besides the brand new switch would be helpful before I send it back. Thanks Stephen
  11. WTB - 240/260/280 little to no rust - Oklahoma

    Still looking?
  12. 71 240z with flood damage

    Pictures Before: http://m.imgur.com/WgU3RFR After: http://m.imgur.com/oQ69oeF
  13. 71 240z with flood damage

    1971 240z, freshly rebuilt sbc with hot cam, rebuilt 700r4, door locks have been shaved,turn signals have been shaved and replaced with leds in the grill, has the correct series 1 pillar emblems but needs the rest,all chrome is there and in good shape, tubbed rear end, plate installed between shock towers for stability brand new tires and rims, body has a fiberglass kit that has been seemed and is cracking at the seem in places, 15 gallon fuel cell with holley red electric fuel pump,fuel door has been shaved but there is an imperfection under the paint where it was done,hood has a dent in the middle from a screw on top of air breather, previous owner installed pins in the hood. The cowl does have some damage, a couple of scrapes and mild warping, I will add things as I think about them. I have some stuff that survived that I will include. Unfortunately the brand new vintage air system didn't but the compressor and condensor should be fine. Also, I will include before and after photos later today.
  14. 71 240z with flood damage

    Car was complete submerged in water during the recent flood. It's a 1971 series 1. It has been converted to a sbc but Id be selling it as a flood damaged roller. Body is in great shape and has been hosed off and had all standing water removed. Title is clean and will not show salvaged or rebuilt though I will be completely up front with the new owner. It was a body kit but the previous owner attempted to hide the seam and that seam is cracking. Interior has been removed completely and hosed out and has no standing water. The car has also been modified for a fuel cell and the rear wheel wells have been tubbed. The wheels and tires are new. I've lost everything and I just can't see working on a car when there's so many more important things.
  15. Thanks for the advice guys. Unfortunately I did have about 5 feet of water in the house so I spent most of today pulling everything out of it. I did get to pull the drain plug and the transmission pan. The oil looked really milky. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the carb and the fuel cell. Thanks for all of the advice. The interior is a complete loss obviously but there are a couple things I can save. Best part, I had a parts car at my dads house and it went under too. Here is a picture of mine, I tried to jack it up before I left but it didn't do any good. http://imgur.com/a/apMHN
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