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artishard116

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artishard116 last won the day on October 21

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About artishard116

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    www.hmillerdesign.com

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  1. Ha! That was the first thing to go. Thanks a lot for all the advice/inspiration. It's coming together. I have a bunch more to share to bring this thread up to date.
  2. A pair of 300ZX TT rear hubs I cleaned up, painted, and added long ARP studs to. Might be letting these go as my rear end plans have changed. Some more T3 stuff shows up. Not happy about the McDonald's colors, but will fix it later. I hadn't welded since college but my friend left his gear at my place so I thought I'd get some practice and do some stitch welding here and there. Ended up doing nearly every seam in and out with the exception of the areas front and rear of the strut towers. Custom rails from Bad Dog arrived and fit well. I por15'd the old rails and pushed the new ones over them as close to the body as they would go, then my friend welded them up. My old man lending a hand. He's gotten pretty excited about the whole thing. Made my own rear subframe connectors to attach to the frame rails. I can tell just by pushing the car around the garage how much stiffer it's getting. Finished product after I cleaned up the welds a bit. Seat rails made out of some square tube that I contoured to the floor pans. Recaro rails attached. I may rethink how they attach, but this is version 1. Added an 1'8" plate behind the firewall that connects to the supports on either side of the wiper motor area. I wanted to strengthen this part before attaching the tri-strut bar, but couldn't think of anything better that left room for the wiper motor. Borrowed from @JMortensen and tied the cage into the chassis in a few places. Previous owner had hacked some speaker holes in the deck area so I cut out all the ragged metal. Haven't quite decided how to cover this up yet. Some more metalwork details. This pretty much wraps it up which means I can finally move on to the next stage. I've had the car about 8 months at this point.
  3. Thanks! Can't take any credit for the pretty welds, those are all my friend. I had him handle anything structural/safety related. I filled a bunch of holes and stitch-welded nearly the whole chassis. You'll see a ton of ugly ones later that are mine haha. By bracket, you mean the mounting point for the lap belts? They look like this:
  4. Thanks for the tip, nice idea. I do have the Apex crossmember which has bars that brace the TC boxes somewhat.
  5. Finished products: "I'll just do a couple stitch welds around the inside of this strut tower" (Famous last words). Some details of the cage and attachment points. Avoided the stock belt mounting holes so I could use them for my harness lap belt. Not sure if the angle will work out though. Bashed the hump in the transmission tunnel with a hammer to try and get enough seat clearance but it was a lost cause. Went full Flinstones. Filled the bumper holes using some Skillard pieces and warped it pretty bad in the process. Will let the body shop sort that one out.
  6. Stripped the rails down to metal in order to test fit some Bad Dog parts, only to discover that mine are unusually asymmetrical. Apparently it was a California car thing? One rail is about an inch taller than the other on one side, and runs flat against the floorpan instead of being contoured like the other side. John from Bad Dog was super helpful and offered to make me custom rails if I sent him templates. If anyone else runs into this problem, drop him a line and see if he can make you a set. Templates made, and subframe connectors mocked up. Had to do these from scratch as they're a totally different shape than on a 240. Determined that the stock seat mounts would have to go unless I wanted my seats to be at a severe angle (and too high). Messy job. Kept ripping holes in the thin floors when trying to remove the spot welds. Sank some tubes through the frame rails and sandwiched 1/8" plates on either side to strengthen the sway bar mounting points. Had a little tube left over from the cage and figured it couldn't hurt to brace the front frame horns.
  7. Thanks! My fabricator friend did it all. We mostly followed the main hoop diagram floating around on here and it fit great.
  8. Signal and reverse lights cleaned up/painted and new lenses added. Will replace all the wiring later. Made some wheels out of swivel casters, 4x4's and U-bolts so I could push the car around. Also had to move garages which was slightly sketchy. In the new space with some major garage upgrades. Finally got the cage in for good. More details to come. Strut towers also cut for weld-in plates. Lining up the T3 weld-in camber plates. IMG_6134.mov Welded on both sides. In retrospect, it would have been prettier if I put them on top of the towers, but it seemed like this would be stronger. They'll be covered by STB brackets anyway. A huge haul of parts show up, as well as seats and belts. Quick test fit:
  9. Did an illustration of the car (in the future) on an iPad! More at behance: https://www.behance.net/gallery/102683249/Datsun-Tribute-Adobe-Creative-Residency-Commission
  10. Thanks! Sure, it was pretty simple, just used a plastic polish by McGuires I believe (meant for headlights), along with a cloth buffing wheel attachment on a power drill. Took several passes to get them shiny. You can find similar kits at most auto parts stores. Power tool is a must, unless you want your arm to fall off. Let me know if you have more questions.
  11. Next I tackled the headlights and installed Dapper led 7's. 40+ years of grime. Cleaned up with a wire wheel. Replaced all the old hardware, trim, and inserts. Used some Camaro parts or something because I couldn't find direct replacements. It required cutting the adjuster holes to squares, but otherwise went smoothly. Painted the buckets. The new lamps require cutting holes in the buckets. Hoping water and dirt won't get in there, but may need to close it off somehow. Lights installed. Actually replacing the glass covers with a more textured version so they look less modern. Testing.
  12. Had some downtime while waiting for my fabricator's schedule to clear up so I kept myself busy by restoring the original tail lights and installing Dapper led boards. Cleaned the grime off. Pried open the lenses. Dapper lighting boards wired up. New sealant added. Polished up the lenses with a buffing wheel on a power drill. Added some clear coat. Painted the worn out chrome trim black. Testing. Doesn't appear I'll have any trouble backing up at night...
  13. Wow nice deal. I'd be all over this if I hadn't already bought most of that stuff separately. Probably 10k in the motor alone. Good luck with the sale.
  14. Fabrication/metalwork starts thanks mostly to my friend BDR Fabrication. POR15 in the seatbelt pockets Pockets welded shut and standoffs for the main hoop added in 1/8" steel. It was tight, but managed to keep the stock seatbelt bolt holes accessible. Test fitting main hoop. We used the diagram floating around on this forum and it fit great. I hadn't welded since college, so I practiced by filling some holes. Removed some plates that were welded over the original sway bar holes by a previous owner on the front frame rails. Parts start to trickle in. IMG_5883.MOV
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