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artishard116

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artishard116 last won the day on May 8

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About artishard116

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    www.hmillerdesign.com

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  1. Will be interesting to see how this changes things
  2. ^Shamelessly 'borrowed' this idea from your build thread when I did my main hoop. Hard to imagine the roof flexing much afterwards.
  3. Considered doing this as well, my original paint is showing the beginnings of cracking in that area. What’s the best way to remove the filler?
  4. I'm right in the middle (nearing the end?) of this stage so I can share some pictures of some of these things. Read that chassis prep thread many times and would have benefited from some detail shots. Lots of great info though. It's taken me around 2 solid months to get to this stage, but I've been pretty lucky in the rust department. Still need to finish my frame rails and seat mounts.
  5. Have a new set of authentic Bride RO rails I ordered from Japan. They are unused, just taken out of the box to test fit and unfortunately didn't work with my seats. These are double locking sliders that bolt directly to the stock mounts in cars manufactured between 10/74/ and 6/76. They will fit a variety of Bride and Recaro seats (please check). Please note that the driver's side mounting tabs are a little higher than the passenger's (I suspect this is so they clear the hump in the trans tunnel). If you've already bashed your hump, it would be pretty easy to mod the tabs to be at the same level as the other side. Will ship at buyer’s expense, pickup available in Santa Cruz, CA. Asking $350 $300 for the pair. Part Numbers: N149RO N150RO
  6. Selling a bunch of parts, mostly from my '76 280 but some stuff for other models/years. All parts are in good shape unless otherwise noted, many refreshed. Pickup encouraged in the bay area (Santa Cruz). Willing to ship most things at buyer's expense. -Front control arms (pair, with new poly bushings) - SOLD-TC rods / washers / new poly bushings (pair) - SOLD-Steering knuckles / good ball joints / boots (pair) - SOLD-Techno Versions r200 diff mount - SOLD-Chrome window trim set - 80-Wheel chocks - 20 -Turn signal lenses w/gaskets - SOLD -Fuel filler neck - 25 -Seat rails (one side has a couple extra holes drilled by p.o. but original ones are intact)- 50 -Steering rack with inner (new) and outer tie rod ends and new boots - 200 -Fuel vapor tank (in hatch) - 40
  7. I see you had the same wonky (2+2?) higher floor pan/taller rail on the passenger’s side as I do. Currently working with John from bad dog to come up with a fix as my fab skills aren’t on your level. Awesome work!
  8. Ah you mean the front diff mount/crossmember thing? They did make a replacement for that but I was referring to the silver bits which connect the front and rear lca points on the same side. This picture is for a long-nose setup, so if going with a short-nose and their rear end conversion, you delete the crossmember, use their overhead diff mount, and then use their 'drop caps' (little gold bits at the rear of below pic) in the front and rear to hold the lca's on, which are provisioned for these new power braces which run front to back.
  9. Any thoughts on this new product for our Z's? Necessary/beneficial? T3 advises not using the front diff crossmember when doing a short nose r200 swap, which I thought was a little concerning. Never considered tying the control arm mount points together in the other direction.
  10. This seems to be the only option. It would have to be a piece that spans the whole length of the rail on the trans tunnel side, contours to meet the bad dog rail, extends up an inch and a half or so, and then runs flat along the floor. For the price I was hoping these would at least be the right shape.
  11. This is kind of a strange one. Test fitting my new frame rails from BD which state they are interchangeable side-to-side, however the stock passenger side rail on my '76 280 is totally different than the driver's side. On the inside edge facing the trans tunnel it is flat along the floor unlike the other the other rails which are contoured. It's also 1.5-2" taller on that side, so if I were to fit the replacement rail over it, it wouldn't reach all the way up to the floor. I've found a couple threads from 2008 referencing the same issue. Can anyone that's installed these on a 280 comment on how they got around this? Measurements in the below pics are taken from both sides of the same rail (passenger).
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