Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

10 Good

About bigbore468

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 07/27/1967

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Near: Honolulu, Hawaii
  1. Good advice from Michael and Miles. My first build used a Muncie style 4spd transmission and it could handle 400 flywheel HP motor. Downside is the buzzing the engine when on the freeway vs. overdrive gear with T5 or 6. Also had a Doug Nash 5spd in that car for a while. The DN is actually shorter than an Muncie so locating the shifter was a problem. My current S30 has a slightly modified T5WC and it has held up thus far, but have not run this car on a strip with drag radials. You will run into issues with the Muncie / Borg Warner 4spd shifter location, a
  2. Found a pair on fleabay. Thanks to those that replied. Please close this thread.
  3. skerry, This link shows what the door window roller looks like. Hope you can open the link from the new-datsun-parts website: http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/images/zda04.jpg Let me know if you have it.
  4. WTB - New or used; door window roller for 1976 280Z coupe. This is the rubber roller attached to a spring metal housing that goes on the top door edge under the outer chrome molding. Left (drivers) side wanted, but will take both sides need be.
  5. Sorry to chime in a bit late on this thread, but thought to share my experience with Kaaz 2-way LSD and gear oil / additives. I posted the Kaaz LSD installation in another thread. The unit is at least 6 years old, and initially followed their break-in procedures and used their gear oil. All was good after initial break in; very minimal chatter around sharp turns at low speeds. Have since driven about 2,000 miles, and have changed the oil every year. Little over a year ago, it was time for a gear oil change and a buddy recommended to use Royal Purple 75-90 gear oil. Found out th
  6. I have a 1976 S30 coupe and installed an RT style mount from Technoversoins last week. I also got the urethane trans mount that bolts to the diff. All I had to remove was the front diff mount crossmember and exhaust to install. One tip is after you remove the two stock diff strap brackets; this is where the RT mount will bolt onto, clean/scrape all the undercoating and dirt from the frame walls. It will make the installation of the RT mount way easier. If you have the Technoversions mount, the hardest part was tightning the bolts for the top and diff mounts. I used a stubby open end t
  7. Those links provide some good basic advice on the mechanics of the most common manual transmissions. Think you said your car makes less than 1,000 HP, and you shift point is under 8,000 RPM, so you should have no problems with the 1-2 shift with a properly rebuilt stock unit. Again make sure you check out the fit of the new brass synchros on your gears, and confirm they do not rock or bind when spun by hand on the gear. Also the slider (outer shift hub) should be smooth over the inner hub without the dogs installed. There are many tricks the old school drag racers used to make manual
  8. Something else suggested to check out since you got the trans apart again is how the brass rings sit against the gears. You can check this by putting some oil on the inside/outside of the brass synchro and on the polished angled surface of the gear where the synchro sits. Hold the grear in your plams and press the brass synchro against the gear with your fingers with equal pressure and make sure it does not rock at all. Check this all around the entire gear, and even put the synchro in various positions. If that checks out good, the next test is to spin the brass synchro on the gear usin
  9. Completely agree with John that your 1-2 shift issue is probably not the trans fluid... You mention everything is in spec regarding your transmission, so other things to check out would be the clutch and release system as others suggested. Something you did not mention is confirming the bellhousing is properly aligned to the block; which will allow the trans input shaft to spin freely and not bind up against the pilot bushing/bearing. Check to make sure you don't have too much airgap (overcentering the fingers) between the clutch, discs and flywheel in the release position. Warped clut
  10. Sorry no pics, but can tell you what we did to make it fit with the shifter located in the stock location. We used a Hurst Super Shifter; this has straight shift arms, and lengthened the shifter bracket and shifter arms to get back enough to align with the stock shifter hole in the tunnel. Then made an offset stick to get it through the stock shifter hole and boot. You may have to clearance the tunnel on the drivers side, but not to the extent that requires cutting and patching. I've since gone to a T5, and still may have that set up laying around somewhere. Also recall other
  11. Read this thread and take time to view the links; it should help you out... http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=264
  12. UPDATE: After further research; anyone interested in putting a Sanden 508 style AC compressor on the DRIVER's side; I ended up using Alan Grove P/N 137L bracket kit. This mounts the Sanden compressor low enough to clear the hood, and provides more than enough clearance for belt adjustment. This kit requires stock style GM heads that have the 3 bolt holes for accessories. The brackets bolt to one of the water pump holes and the three accessory holes on the head. As noted I'm using the old style V-belt pulleys and the alignment is spot on. Am sure this kit will work with an aftermarket
  13. Yes, that Four Seasons 38608 expansion valve was used to replace the OE canister EV. Mine is a 76 S30, but I think the boxes are the same from 75-78. The stock lines going in/out of the evap box should be copper so it's easier to bend if you need to. The stock fittings are SAE flare, not AN; but you probably know that already. Hopes this helps you out.
  14. Yeah been down that road before... As you know, you get only ONE CHANCE per new 0-ring when trying to reassemble the expansion valve guts into the housing. That o-ring is an unusual size too. The last one of those can style expansion valves I cleaned out, I machined a small radius on the edge that pinches / cuts the o-ring when you press it back into the housing. I've since found a very close fit standard expansion valve that works well; at least with the stock evaps used in 75 to 76 year 280's. Four Seasons part number 38608. Good luck!
  15. Am looking for some information on Holley carb needle & seats; hopefully grumpyvette or any other carb tech guru can shed some light on this subject. The specific application for the needle & seats are for Holley 4150 DP carbs with center hung bowls running pump gas with 10-15% alcohol, not e85. Also .097" seats, non adjustable captured viton tip needle; like Holley P/N 6-506 I've noticed there are two different size diameter needle stems that Holley uses. See the pictures for reference. My questions: Are these supposed to be interchangable? I've recently purchased
  • Create New...