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About bigbore468

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  • Birthday 07/27/1967

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    Near: Honolulu, Hawaii
  1. Good advice from Michael and Miles. My first build used a Muncie style 4spd transmission and it could handle 400 flywheel HP motor. Downside is the buzzing the engine when on the freeway vs. overdrive gear with T5 or 6. Also had a Doug Nash 5spd in that car for a while. The DN is actually shorter than an Muncie so locating the shifter was a problem. My current S30 has a slightly modified T5WC and it has held up thus far, but have not run this car on a strip with drag radials. You will run into issues with the Muncie / Borg Warner 4spd shifter location, as it will be too short to exit the stock shifter location hole unless you setback the engine way past the stock firewall, even with a blowbell. I used a Hurst super shifter and extended the mount and arms so the shifter would locate out the stock Z location and still have a short throw for all gears. May still have that thing laying around if you need a reference.
  2. Found a pair on fleabay. Thanks to those that replied. Please close this thread.
  3. skerry, This link shows what the door window roller looks like. Hope you can open the link from the new-datsun-parts website: http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/images/zda04.jpg Let me know if you have it.
  4. WTB - New or used; door window roller for 1976 280Z coupe. This is the rubber roller attached to a spring metal housing that goes on the top door edge under the outer chrome molding. Left (drivers) side wanted, but will take both sides need be.
  5. Sorry to chime in a bit late on this thread, but thought to share my experience with Kaaz 2-way LSD and gear oil / additives. I posted the Kaaz LSD installation in another thread. The unit is at least 6 years old, and initially followed their break-in procedures and used their gear oil. All was good after initial break in; very minimal chatter around sharp turns at low speeds. Have since driven about 2,000 miles, and have changed the oil every year. Little over a year ago, it was time for a gear oil change and a buddy recommended to use Royal Purple 75-90 gear oil. Found out this was a major mistake, as after about 20 miles of driving, that popping, chatter, banging, feeling like something is broken in the drivetrain started. I went through the drivetrain several times, swapped half shafts, checked stub axles, etc., and eventually talked to a tech a Kaaz about the problem. They told me the synthetic oil probably caused the clutches to wear unevenly and the unit will need to be rebuilt to solve the problem. Since then, went back to mineral gear oil and tried several different LSD friction additives; adding up to 12oz. The car would drive fine when the diff was cold, but act up when once the oil warmed up. I was ready to swap out the diff last week and rebuild the Kaaz LSD per RebekahsZ instructions... Another buddy who works at a Dodge dealer said they have been using BG LSD additive to tame chatter on their trucks. So I put two tubes of that stuff and topped off with 75-90, and it was like a miracle. No more hard chatter, banging, wheel hop. Would have never thought the type of gear oil / additives would adversely affect the operations of the LSD clutches! For what it's worth guys.
  6. I have a 1976 S30 coupe and installed an RT style mount from Technoversoins last week. I also got the urethane trans mount that bolts to the diff. All I had to remove was the front diff mount crossmember and exhaust to install. One tip is after you remove the two stock diff strap brackets; this is where the RT mount will bolt onto, clean/scrape all the undercoating and dirt from the frame walls. It will make the installation of the RT mount way easier. If you have the Technoversions mount, the hardest part was tightning the bolts for the top and diff mounts. I used a stubby open end to hold the nuts while hitting the bolts with the gun. Also made spacers instead of shaving down the urethane mount, which dropped the front of the diff slightly more than my last set up; so I had to cut the front diff crossmember for clearance. There is a thread about this issue in this forum. Good luck.
  7. Those links provide some good basic advice on the mechanics of the most common manual transmissions. Think you said your car makes less than 1,000 HP, and you shift point is under 8,000 RPM, so you should have no problems with the 1-2 shift with a properly rebuilt stock unit. Again make sure you check out the fit of the new brass synchros on your gears, and confirm they do not rock or bind when spun by hand on the gear. Also the slider (outer shift hub) should be smooth over the inner hub without the dogs installed. There are many tricks the old school drag racers used to make manual trans shifting easier; try looking at threads discussing Muncie, Borg Warner T-10, or Hemi 4spd trans. Some of easier tricks involve the dogs, dog springs, dressing the hubs and slides. More agressive mods involve removing every other tooth of the gear, brass synchro, and slide; but would not recommend that for a street driven car.
  8. Something else suggested to check out since you got the trans apart again is how the brass rings sit against the gears. You can check this by putting some oil on the inside/outside of the brass synchro and on the polished angled surface of the gear where the synchro sits. Hold the grear in your plams and press the brass synchro against the gear with your fingers with equal pressure and make sure it does not rock at all. Check this all around the entire gear, and even put the synchro in various positions. If that checks out good, the next test is to spin the brass synchro on the gear using hand pressure; it shouldn slide (spin) around the gear with the same amount of drag. If it does not or binds in spots, it might be better to replace that synchro. From your picture, it looks like you have ample gap, so the brass syncho does not look stretched out. Good luck
  9. Completely agree with John that your 1-2 shift issue is probably not the trans fluid... You mention everything is in spec regarding your transmission, so other things to check out would be the clutch and release system as others suggested. Something you did not mention is confirming the bellhousing is properly aligned to the block; which will allow the trans input shaft to spin freely and not bind up against the pilot bushing/bearing. Check to make sure you don't have too much airgap (overcentering the fingers) between the clutch, discs and flywheel in the release position. Warped clutch disc(s) can also cause the low gears shift issue you have.
  10. Sorry no pics, but can tell you what we did to make it fit with the shifter located in the stock location. We used a Hurst Super Shifter; this has straight shift arms, and lengthened the shifter bracket and shifter arms to get back enough to align with the stock shifter hole in the tunnel. Then made an offset stick to get it through the stock shifter hole and boot. You may have to clearance the tunnel on the drivers side, but not to the extent that requires cutting and patching. I've since gone to a T5, and still may have that set up laying around somewhere. Also recall others discussing this a while back, and there were pictures in that post too. Good luck.
  11. Read this thread and take time to view the links; it should help you out... http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=264
  12. UPDATE: After further research; anyone interested in putting a Sanden 508 style AC compressor on the DRIVER's side; I ended up using Alan Grove P/N 137L bracket kit. This mounts the Sanden compressor low enough to clear the hood, and provides more than enough clearance for belt adjustment. This kit requires stock style GM heads that have the 3 bolt holes for accessories. The brackets bolt to one of the water pump holes and the three accessory holes on the head. As noted I'm using the old style V-belt pulleys and the alignment is spot on. Am sure this kit will work with an aftermarket belt kit too. If you are using older style SBC heads that have no holes, you can use P/N 119L, which uses the 1st and 3rd holes on the exhaust. Hope this info helps anyone that wants to update their AC compressor in lieu of the Frigidaire A6, and wants a bolt on kit vs. fabricating your own.
  13. Yes, that Four Seasons 38608 expansion valve was used to replace the OE canister EV. Mine is a 76 S30, but I think the boxes are the same from 75-78. The stock lines going in/out of the evap box should be copper so it's easier to bend if you need to. The stock fittings are SAE flare, not AN; but you probably know that already. Hopes this helps you out.
  14. Yeah been down that road before... As you know, you get only ONE CHANCE per new 0-ring when trying to reassemble the expansion valve guts into the housing. That o-ring is an unusual size too. The last one of those can style expansion valves I cleaned out, I machined a small radius on the edge that pinches / cuts the o-ring when you press it back into the housing. I've since found a very close fit standard expansion valve that works well; at least with the stock evaps used in 75 to 76 year 280's. Four Seasons part number 38608. Good luck!
  15. Am looking for some information on Holley carb needle & seats; hopefully grumpyvette or any other carb tech guru can shed some light on this subject. The specific application for the needle & seats are for Holley 4150 DP carbs with center hung bowls running pump gas with 10-15% alcohol, not e85. Also .097" seats, non adjustable captured viton tip needle; like Holley P/N 6-506 I've noticed there are two different size diameter needle stems that Holley uses. See the pictures for reference. My questions: Are these supposed to be interchangable? I've recently purchased a few genuine Holley 6-506 needle & seats and they have the fatter stem. NOS same part number needle & seats I have from years ago have the smaller diameter stem. Is there any advantage to using one or the other with a particular float; either duracon or nitrophyl? I know the alcohol in the pump gas will tend to swell the viton tip a bit, and could cause sealing issues; which is exactly the problem I'm trying to solve. So assuming the fuel system is clean, float levels set properly, proper steady fuel pressure, etc., is there a needle & seat / float combination you would recommend? Appreciate your advice.
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