TrikeZ

Been awhile, anything new??

Any updates??

Thank you for the input, I will look in to it.

Hello, just wanted to ask for some help finding new wheels. Currently I am running the Toyota s12w on the front and will be running the mustang brake set up on the rear. (Stock drums on rear as of now) I am running stock style 14 inch mesh wheels and have to run a thin spacer in the front to clear calipers. Once I upgrade to the rear mustang setup I will have to have atleast a 16 inch wheel. What I want to know is what wheel/tire dimensions I need to get. I do NOT want to run the spacers in the front anymore. Looking for wheels to clear front calipers with no spacer, be atleast 16 inch wheels and fit under my stock fenders. Am interested in Watanabe style Rota's for now. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. -Uri

Yeeeeeesssss!! Another chance! Stay strong, brother. Very interested.

Yes, pivot ball was exactly the same. Old one just had some wear marks on it. When the clutch was installed and in the car. I had to put in a much longer pushrod to even get the car into gear, but by doing that the TO bearing must be right up against the pressure plate and then it would get burnt out.

My friend told me that I might have done that but when I pulled it all back out it was in the correct way.

Yeah, it is strange. The old system worked fine except I had a leaking master and then the old disc broke a Marcel. But other than that the slave had a homemade push rod(bolt with head ground off).

Old clutch does not meet your specification. While the new one does meet your specification, it did not disengage when installed.

I have the pressure plate bolted to the flywheel and the assembly is up side down.

So I got the measurements for both the old and new clutches and collars. I measured from outside flywheel(crank mounting surface) to outside of pressure plate fingers(TO Bearing side). Then I measured the TO bearing face to opposing collar flange. On the OLD clutch and collar totaled to just over 93 mm. The NEW clutch and collar totaled to about 103.5 mm. I am not sure if that is how I am supposed to measure it but those are the measurements I got.

I was not aware of this. I will definitely measure this out. And get back to you. Thanks for the info.

Yes, I did replace both the throwout bearing and collar. I got them both from Zcardepot and both were in factory Nissan packaging. The old and new collars are the same. I will take pictures of everything tomorrow.

Both slave and master are both stock replacements. I know the master is 5/8, the slave seems to be the same diameter but it is not stamped. And neither are leaking. I tried some more things out but none lead to an answer. I put in a much longer pushrod for the slave(was VERY DIFFICULT to make fit and bolt up) and trans finally went into forward gears with a little bit of extra push on shifter, reverse grinded everytime and HARD to go in. Did not like that at all, didn't feel right. I was sure that the TO bearing would be pressing against fingers and then get burnt out fast. I pulled the trans out again and inspected further, I recompared the clutch old/new. I noticed that the new pressure plate fingers were just a hair over 1/4 inch further OUT from clutch disc than they were on the old. Just overlooked it the first time. My car was swapped with an L26 by previous owner, it's mated to a 4 speed. Is there a difference in clutches between 240z and 260z? The new clutch I got was for a 260z. It is a LuK clutch kit part #06-029.

I have also swapped out the slave rod to a slightly longer one to try and still have the same problem.

Yeah, I replaced the TO bearing and collar. They were the same as the old ones.

Yes, I still have the old M/C I will check the rod lengths ASAP. And yes, I also bench bleed it as well.

Yes, I have adjusted the clevis at the pedal in both directions, no luck.

So I just installed a new stock LuK clutch kit in my Z, new slave, master, T.O. bearing and springs, and pivot ball. I had the flywheel resurfaced. Old clutch disc broke a Marcel spring so out it came. The problem I'm having is that the trans wont go into gear. The clutch is not disengaging completely. I have bled the system to the best of my ability manually and also with a vacuum bleeder. I had the car up on jack stands, it WOULD go into gear and spin the tires, as soon as I pushed the clutch AND brake pedal in the engine would begin to stumble a little(clutch not fully disengaging) I then dropped the car to the floor to attempt to go on a test drive, but then the car won't go into gear. I have adjusted the pedal forwards and backwards and no luck. Rebleed the system, no luck. I then measured the stroke of the slave cylinder rod. From face of the slave to face of the clutch fork was 1.256 inches. Then with the clutch pedal DEPRESSED(pushed in) measured 1.675 inches. Service manual says the stroke should be 35mm or 1.378 inches. I had just over 0.4 in of travel. I am not sure if it can be adjusted any if possible. But I am sure that everything went together properly, the only things I can think of are air in system, bent fork, or misadjustment. Any advice or tips would be appreciated. As I do not want to have to pull the trans out again unless absolutely necessary. Thanks, TrikeZ

Hello, as I wrote in the title I have a 1973 240z swapped with an L26(done by PO). Last night on my drive back home I noticed that it would the engine would stumble at times almost like a misfire. And lights dimmed/flickered a bit when idling at a stop. So, I busted out the multimeter and with the car ON, engine running, battery tested 16.6 volts, same with the alternator terminal. Car OFF, battery tested 14.8 volts. So, it is overcharging. I suspect the external voltage regulator went out. As I am likely needing to replace it, I wanted to know if there was an upgrade kit for an internally regulated hirgher amp output alternator such as the one for a 70-72 Z which is on TheZStore? Any help or ideas will be appreciated. Thank you

Hello, looking for left hand drivers door window regulator. Mine took a crap. Need shipped to 95993. Thanks

Just wondering if you still had this left window regulator. If so, would you happen to know if it will fit a 73? I am interested.

Thanks for the advice. Only wish I knew about the MC bleeders earlier, I didn't of think of it. I will be carrying a wrench set in the car from now on. Thank you

This is most likely my problem, it locked on me again today on a cruise around my street to test them. I had to adjust my pushrod when I installed the new MC. when I push the brake pedal there is VERY LITTLE to no free play. I had to have my brother come pull me around the corner home. The pedal was VERY hard and barely moved at all after it locked. I could not move the car forward or reverse under its own power due to the brakes holding. I will adjust my pushrod as soon as I get a chance. Thank you.

Resolved! No more air, I bled everything with a vacuum extractor and everything worked fine. I drove the car this morning and I believe that my front driver side caliper is not releasing, I got home feeling a drag and some smoke coming from behind the wheel. I did not get to fully investigate as I had to leave for work.