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About northwoodz

  • Rank
  • Birthday 05/27/93

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Bangor, Maine
  • Interests
    84 300zx
    78 280z
    78 280z 2+2 (current)
  1. Haha tell us what it was!!
  2. 480Z - cheap 2+2 build

    Alright this post is pretty good. I got my parts from summit tonight. Installed a 16" 2100cfm spal fan. They are on sale this week, btw, 10%....This one barely fits on the radiator core and moves some air. Pretty quiet too. Wired through a fused relay triggered by pcm pin #42. Then I installed a vss (speed sensor) finally. The car runs WAY better with it. Dont think you can go without it like I did. I got under the car and found the source of the vibe I was having - a pooched ujoint at the outer right half shaft. I notice the left side had been replaced. Makes sense, and not life threatening. The prothane mustashe bushings will stay in the box for now. Then - then i went and fell in love with my z again. I went on a 30 mile cruise on back twisty roads taking it sort of easy. What a car! It is worth ALL the work. EDIT: fixed images
  3. Race car and exhaust fumes

    I've also read that if you kick the exhaust out to the side of the car it helps because it keeps fumes away from the low pressure area behind it.
  4. 480Z - cheap 2+2 build

    Another small update The clutch action was never right with the stock clutch M/C so I swapped in a wilwood 7/8 MC which was practically bolt in. I also replaced the factory 3/16" clutch line with 1/4" for a quicker action. Added my little resonator which did quiet it down some but is still rather loud. I think the next step addressing that will be some interior sound deadening and carpet. I updated the tags and insurance on the z so we took it for the first real drive and put it through the paces. I was having too much fun but I did come to the sad realization that the car still requires a lot of time and money to be a daily driver again. -I can't get by without a VSS sensor. The car has the typical chugging idle and stalling condition that everybody has without the speed sensor. -the diff mount bushings are bad. This I already knew. Under heavy acceleration there is a harsh vibration/pounding that I can't deal with. It gets worse the longer I drive the car. I will start out by replacing the mustache bushings and if that doesn't work I will get the RT mount. -I still need to install a fan setup. I might trim the fan blades on the mechanical fan until I find an electric fan setup at the u-pull.

    Typically you run coolant through a passage to keep the throttle blades from icing up in cold weather. It hurts performance in the summer months by heating up the intake charge.
  6. I never tried this with my L28, but when I was into older BMWs which have the same solid rocker ohc noises, using a heavy weight oil like 20w-50 seemed to help quiet them down a lot.
  7. I was looking into 18racing just a few days ago. It is worth noting that their EBay username is 'wheelbay' and their pricing on there seems a little better than the website. They disguise this info but the phone number and location is the same in the listings.
  8. 480Z - cheap 2+2 build

    I got a new phone!!! No more hazy pictures with black dots everywhere after this post. So Saturday the girlfriend and I took a 400-mile road trip in the jeep to go 4-wheelin at the terrain park and then further north to a concert in beautiful Rangeley ME. Sunday I fooled around with fitting a makeshift air filter and getting the factory hood latch to fit in it's home again. I adjusted the hood to stay open just a little to give clearance to the truck intake and I hope will allow a little more flow through the engine bay. I don't mind the look of it too much. The z is a 78 but has a 77 hood with no louvers. I hope to add them someday but man! $$$ Also replaced the fusible links with some new ones from zcardepot. The old links had pulled their tricks on me too many times. Last I took her outside and washed the greasy fingerprints and dust off. Oh, and I had to celebrate the success of the swap a little
  9. Manual transmission options

    Richard, Absolutely I agree. I was speaking to the couple that replied here earlier in the thread saying their main reason for not doing an LS swap was the cost of the T56. I was just trying to point out that there are less desirable transmissions you can run on a budget. By all means, If one fell in my lap for a deal I would run home and swap them out. Rot rod power tour is a dream of mine! But I'd be lucky to put 1300 miles on my z in the next 2 years..
  10. 480Z - cheap 2+2 build

    Made small progress tonight. First I investigated the noise I was hearing. I found it wasnt the bolts but the bigger ears of the driveshaft flange hitting the sway bar. So obviously my diff mount is toast. As a temporary quick fix I heated the sway bar and bent it out of the way a little. The noise is gone. Then I ran a 12mmx1.5 die over the end of the z temp sender, and screwed it right into the head. This I had seen in another thread (get it?) and worked out great with some thread sealant.
  11. 480Z - cheap 2+2 build

    The truck fuel rail has an integrated regulator yea. Makes the fuel system stupid easy. A good inline pump with stock lines and you're done. Not sure how much hp that setup will support with boost though. And if you can find room for turbo(s) than I'm sure you can get the truck intake to clear, and with MS a manual throttle body would be no problem! I'll have to check out and follow your build thread.
  12. Choosing a Camshaft, L31 engine.

    Remember that with the vortec you are limited in how much lift you can run to about .470" without interfering with the stock valve guides!!! That cam you have chosen is probably right on the edge of what you can get away with. Those are nice motors hate for you to mash yours up!! EDIT: according to this article you can only run .420" so I would do some research. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-0208-vortec-heads-valve-lift/
  13. 480Z - cheap 2+2 build

    Cool! don't see many going with the little unloved 4.8. I like em they like come set up for a manual, are cheap, like to rev and don't make trans exploding torque I can tell you the only thing that doesn't perfectly clear on the truck manifold is the fly by wire throttle body. I realized this too late to make a change so I'm stuck with DBW. If you go with a cable I bet it will clear. You do have to shave all the little do-dads off the top, which is easy. My hood is on the car and it closes within 1/2" of latching. I just bungeed the hood down for now (looks kind of cool popped up a little). But in the future I'll make a speed bump in the hood for the throttle body or try to shave it some. I was also considering the oe competition hood scoop. Keep in mind that when you go to a fbody intake, now you need fbody fuel rails, you don't have a fuel press regulator anymore, you'll need a car water pump, which means you'll need all new pulleys and accessories. I would of rather gone with a carb setup at that point. OH and, just for reference, my oil pan is about 1/4" above the cross member and about that far from the steering rack. The crank pulley cradles the steering and the whole setup is pretty low in the car. So low that the driveshaft has to travel UP to the diff from the back of the trans. If you buy mounts I doubt it will be low enough to get away with the truck intake but I don't know for sure.
  14. 480Z - cheap 2+2 build

    I realize there isn't much in my thread so far that hasn't been done or is of any use. So I wanted to post how I got the factory tach to work for free since I wasn't able to find this on hybrids. Most just send it out to JCI I guess. See below. My first step was sending my PCM out to ls*thunder on ebay. His name is Leonard and he is a little dry to talk to but did a great job. He was able to edit the tach signal the computer generates for a 6cyl tach. I guess in stock form the pcm generates a 4cyl signal. My understanding is that anyone with hptuners can change this easy and he didn't charge me extra. He also removed vats and the usual stuff for just $45. Then, after hours or searching around I found this over at lt1swap.com and it worked For this, you can use the stock resistor for the tach behind the glovebox (its a little black plug on the main harness going out to the front with two blue wires) Just connect the white wire from the pcm to the tach side (blue&white) and switched power to the other (solid blue) side. I'm not sure what the value of that resistor is but I think its quite large. For switched power you can use the switched + going to the old ignition module which is right handy. Not sure the color of the wire I just used a test light to find it. I have some run time on it now and the tach works like a charm and seems accurate! Not a penny involved! Note: I also tried this modification before I found the trick above but I don't think it has much to do with my results http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/66137-how-to-modify-a-280z-tach-to-work-with-msd-for-free/
  15. 480Z - cheap 2+2 build

    Got the exhaust hung on the car. It sounds great but is too loud. I ordered a 3" resonator to go in the straight section hoping that will make it just right Then I went for a test drive! I made my usual test run loop to the water store and back. I had two major issues: I need to bleed the clutch more. I also was having a noise in reverse/decel/downshifts. I'm pretty sure its the bolts I used in the driveshaft flange hitting the sway bar when the diff torques down. I will try moving the lock washers to the front of the flange and shaving some off the bolts. No pictures of it on first drive, sorry, it was dark.