1 fast z

So I am jumpin in and getting some of these customers MN47 heads done, (I have 3 in here for guys right now). I did a some what of a street port, which means only raising the intake port about .160". There is also ALOT of internal work, that is some what tricks that I like to hold on to. But anyways, both of these test were done with the stock 42mm valve, and not the 44 mm intake valve, like All 280's have. I will put the bigger valves in tommorow, and get new test numbers. The ratings were all taken at a .200" starting number, and then they go up in .05" incriments from there. All CFM Ratings are done at 28" of water. Here are Modified numbers: 106.5 125.4 142.0 153.8 168.0 177.5 191.7 198.8 203.5 210.6 215.3 Here are Stock numbers: 99.4 123.1 132.5 146.7 156.2 165.7 170.4 175.1 175.1 175.1 175.1

I also agree that port matching for the most part is a waste of time, you could concentrate on the port work that much more, and make MUCH more improovement. At least that is what my flow bench tells me.

Well Well Well TONY, now you know how I get forged pistons for all of my motors. I have all of the piston books, Sealed Power, Etc.

Nope, there off of a NISSAN!

Hey John C., I was in your instructer group at the MSA auto cross! I had my car there that day, did you see it run before it lost oil pressure? It was running pretty good before that though.

Well, What did I SAY about forged pistons, when we fired up MS, I knew that the cast ones werent gonna last, but with the 3.520" Pistons that will be back from VENOLIA this week or so, I should be able to take it to 7800 or so now, hopefully it will keep up with your red 260, HA HA HA.

The difference is like Night and Day. This car is my daily driver as well. It pulls SO HARD, from like 3500-7200, I am sure it would go higher, I have just never pushed it any harder. For a stock short block in a 77 car, it will break the tires loose at about 4,000 RPM when you punch it at an idle in first gear. It also nocked a FULL SECOND off of my ET. It runs High 13's in the quater. But when my forged pistons get back from Venolia next week, this car will be getting a stroker, by the end of the month. I hope to do about 260 to the ground with this car.

You can always just pull a tach signal off of the (-) side of the coil.

Here are some pics of my car at the MSA event. This is the custom manifold that I built also. http://www.bandmzcars.com/MSAautocross.html

Run it on fuel only, for awile anyways, till you get the thing fugured out. I have put about 5,000 miles on my MS daily driver and no problems. As you know that includes racing, and rod failures. LOL.

All you have to do is to run resitors inline with the power side of the injectors. Just use a resistor pack out of any L28 car 75-83, and you will be set.

I DONT run any O2 sensor with my MS setup. I just leave the WB on all of the time and moniter it that way.

Here is a low res pic of my ITB setup that I made about 3 months ago, pulls to at least 7500, that is when I back off, for the reason of the stock short block.

I am an need of some RB cams. I would preferebly like the 26's as they have more lift. Does anyone have any that they wouldnt mind selling?

I know I know, we have been posting alot of pics of this head latley, but alot of people have been asking about progress, so here it goes:

Well there is a head that will DEFINTLEY out flow mine, I think I read somewhere that the KA head flows 250 CFM at 500 lift and at a pressure of 25" of water. To where my head only flows about 210 at that pressure and lift, not even to mention that the crossflow design will purge the cylinder much better.

Looks to me that the head bolts are installed.

I have enough parts to put a few stroker kits together. Let me know if you are interested.

They were all custom dimmensions. I used a LD crank with 280 rods and used a .8000" wrist pin, with a .040" positive deck height. THey were cut for 1.5MM compression rings with a 4.0MM Oil Ring. THe rings were kept WAY down on the piston to keep the heat off of them for the turbo motor I am building.

Venolia, is who I got my 89 MM pistons from. Paid about 400.00 for 7 of them.

No I DO NOT remove the liners. There is no need to. I can get about 135 CFM out of a linered head with stock valves and leaving the liners in.

I race with half the CID.

Well I think it is an accomplishment when My NA l28 stock bore, stock stroke, stock intake car is just as fast as your last small block car that you had. I just had to throw that in there.

There are two o-rings on the injectors. One is on the pintle cap, and the other is on the base of the injector below the two screws. The seal great, I pulled a bunch of VAC before I welded them on and they seal perfectly. I might make some sort of packege deal in the future on a head and intake, I will have to see how much demand there is first.