1 fast z

I port the MN47 for guys all the time. I get great flow numbers with STOCK valves. PORT velocity is a direct relationship upon TORQUE. So if you can get GREAT flow with a smaller valve, the motor will produce LOTS more torque then a larger valve with the same flow. I got about 210 CFM at .600" lift, at 25" of water for a pressure. I will say it one more time, the MN47 is the BEST bang for the buck, by far.

The MN47 head, will yeild 11.3-1, on a stock flat top block, with a felpro head gasket. I run this setup on one of my cars, and have many customers that also run this same exact setup, with the heads I have setup for them. If TUNED right, you will have NO detonation problem, especially if you bleed off the static compression with a hotter cam. Alot of people are affraid of 11-1 on L series, but there is NO need to be. The MN head has the HIGHEST quench head that is availible, without mods, and that GREATLY reduces detonation.

MN47!!!! Nuff said.

Yea, I hit 13.9 with the stock short block, yea, should be able to hit 12's.

Ok, so I am in the very final stages of the stroker build. Everything else is completed, ie. balencing, cleaning, boring, honing, checking clearences, fitting bearings, yada, yada, yada. Pretty much all that was left to do was lighten the pistons, and balence them when I was completed. Well, here is some of the work I did. I have went to a 3mm larger bore (89mm). The stock piston and pin has a mass of 535 grams, and this is for the early dished series. My piston with the larger bore, has a mass of 404 grams. this is including the wrist pins BTW. My piston without the wrist pin, has a mass of 320 grams. I maintained all of the critical thicknesses as well, ie. .200" dome, .185" under the ring land, .090" side skirts, etc. I am really excited to see how "rapy" this motor is going to be, with 12-1 compression, 6 ITB's, lightened flywheel, pistons, harmonic balencer, etc. Cant wait to drop her in, which should be next week. The wrist pins are H-11 Tool Steel, .090" wall. The pics dont really do the finish justice, the finish came out really smooth, but looks like scratches in the pics. http://www.bandmzcars.com/pistonlighteningpics007.jpg

NOPE, there cast stock KA pistons.

Can you post pics?

A port can ONLY flow as much as the valve! Ive done the test, and trust me, one word, LEAVE!

All L6 L series adjusters are the same. The thread pitch is not the same, nor is the diameter. It is NOT a direct bolt in, as threaded, externaly, and internaly bushings need to be made. Going off of crappy memory, I beilive the threads on the adjusters, are 18mm, and the A head is 21mm.

ALL EFI intakes FLOW the same, but the later tapered ones will not starve the first few runners.

ALthough, if you can find a piston from a 173 V6 morot from a 80-84 chev car, with sealed power part number L2492F It is power forged from the factory. I searched for this piston in the past, and it is NLA as a new product. WIth this piston, all you have to do is trim .085" off the dome, and bush the stock rod to .905" and it will work perfectly. Offset the rod with use of the corvair piston is needed for the reason that the Corvair piston has a higher compression distance, and you cant shave enough off the piston, and still have a .200" dome thickness, so you put a bushing in the wrist pin end of the rod, but you offset the bushing to basicly make a shorter rod.

60's Corvair uses a 3 and 7/16 bore, and they are factory forged for the super charged, or turbo, cant remember models. They compression distance is close, and offset bushings in the rods, will work fine.

You do know that I have seen people actually just over bore ONE cylinder, and make the over bored piston the same mass as the others, to obtain the balence.

How can you figure the Compression Ratio, without knowing the Deck Height, or Compression Height of the Arizona Z Car Pistons??????????

I run a FELPRO gasket, on my car, and have NO problem, with 11.3-1, and most people know how hard I run my car. I would bet you have surface problems, that you need to look into.

As stated in the how to modify book. It says that the upper, slack side guide bolt, can break with harsh, high RPM harmonics. Has anyone had any experience with this? Anyone had this bolt break? I have just finished all the machining on my block, ie. Bored, honed, galley lines tapped for NPT, Surface ground the deck, drilled out the oil jets, etc. I am contimplating drilling the 6x1.0 bolt, and putting a .3125 bolt in this hole Im talking about, but if not needed, then I wont set the block back up and indicate it in. Any Experience?

Have you guys picked up a Z32 tranny? MAN, I would NEVER put one of these in my car! Driving the bigger gears, takes ALOT of HORSE. PLUS, the added mass. I have seen HIGH HP L series cars, with KA trannys, and not having any problem, and I have also seen 400+ SR's and KA's with stock trannys.

Loosen them up a quater turn, then retorque to the desired spec.

Oil hole, ALWAYS goes towards the pressure side of the piston, which is the PASSENGER side of the car.

"roughly" 1.5-1, it does very, as it depends on how the rocker arm geometry has been set up.

Yea, back in the late 20's and early 30's there were alot of cast iron pistons still being used. My grandfathers V-16 Cadilac Powered roadster has FIVE TO ONE cast iron pistons in it! They couldnt get the "cam" design correct in the pistons in the early days, to accomidate for the expansion of the alloy pistons, so they used cast iron pistons, cause they didnt expand NEARLY as much as the alluminum ones.

"and supposedly the best flowing stock head" Nope! I have flow tested, ALL L28 heads and the P90 is no different the the N42, or P79. The N47 does not flow as well on the intakes, due to the BULGE in the side of the intake ports. But for the exhuast, ALL L28's Flow the same.

Well here is the timing work that Mcadam And I have completed on our DOHC head!

THose intakes cant be opened up enought to do much good. You cant even get them to 35mil really, which is what the STOCK intake port opening is on the L series. With all that work, you could just fab one up.

You need to get rid of that wide ratio tranny. Here how much it bogs when you go from 2 to third? The ratios would work out MUCH better for you with the 81-83 NA, or out of a Maxima.