1 fast z

Yea, SO Im tired of my car beeing all outta alignment. It has rear tow problems, and camber, caster, blah blah blah. So I was gonna make my own adjustable control arms, but never got around to it, and time is short till MSA so I just went with the Arizona Z car stuff. GOOD stuff, HIgh Quality. I should be installing next week. Heres some pics.

Ok, I am pretty familer with Fuel part of MS, but have no experience with the spark feature. I will be running a 82-83 turbo dizzy in my 77. Do I wire it like in the moby sticky? Even though it says for a 3.0 board? Does anyone have a file with spark for a stock L28 ET? I am running MSnS V2.2. 02s49.

With our bore size you should be between 4 and 5 though, UNLESS your boosted then make it 5-7 thou. Remember its the HEAT and EXPANSION rate that determines the clearence. Ive seen motors with as much as NINE thou. Remember, .0005" too tight will NEVER work, as will result in scuffing. but .002" clearence will ALWAYS work. Keep that in mind. On my last NA stroker, I ran .0045 on all bores.

Do you have the mass of the pistons and pins?

All 75-80 blocks will read N42 for a casting number. 75-EARLY 77 has a N42 head. Early 77-80 has a N47 head 81-83 has P79, NA. Those notches you are reffering to are the FRONT notch indicators. the Piston pin is NOT in the center of the piston, so they put those notches so you can put them with the offset the correct way.

MSA, nissan, etc. There the same thing.

Takes about 35 hours or so for the trick looking shiny ones like that one. Yea, I have another design already for equal length runners then I will test ON A DYNO and 1/4 mi to see what differences it gives verses this style, I bet its UN NOTICABLE, but only dyno will tell right? Yea, Lots or work here, but I enjoy every minute of it

Here is some pics of the finished intake manifold that I built for SIDWELL. I hand delivered the intake 400 miles from my house, this last saturday night. Notice how much taper there is in the intake track. Goes from a 50mm opening tapered down to a 40mm. Notice no external welds, and everything is smoothed and polished Notice balence tube and reference line for a MAP signal Notice the cable throttle setup, and clean return spring design.

Ok, BOTH planes have to be EXACTLY parrelell. The tip and the cam face. If there not, you WILL have abnormal wear wich will cause a bad cam lobe and rocker arm. I resurface mine, but I use a jig that I setup for my surface grinder, that keeps both planes EXACTLY parrelell. Using sandpaper with your hand as a guide on your garage floor is not the way to do it, yea it make work for a very skilled person, but I wouldnt advise just anyone to do it.

"It seems like they charge about $4 each, times 16, plus shipping." We either have 2 valve v8's on the brain, or 4 valve four cylinders, LOL.

PLEASE use units! And I belive you have some decimal error. I BELIVE your trying to say, that the FSM says .25mm and .3mm. Typical is 4-5 thousands of a inch per inch of bore. If this is a NA motor, run like .012" on the top, and .015 on the second. This is MINIMUM specs, I would recomend.

Get your drill out! Ive got one of these pans, and the quality is NOT what you would expect for the price. I had to drill out TEN holes, just to get them to align properly. THEN, I ask DAVE at AZZCAR, what pickup it used, and he says, doesnt matter, so I use a first gen pickup, and during assembly, sure it will bolt on, but the freakin pickup BLOCKS the baffled door! I mean, KNOW YOUR PRODUCT, and let your customer know that it needs a ZX pickup!!! PLUS, the HOLES that hold down the valley pan, were STRIPPPED, and I had to drill and tap to a bigger size just so it would work. The doors needed ALOT of finess, to make them smooth. SO to sum up, I had about 5 hours, of work to do to the pan, before it was usable.

Yea, they are not the same Cam specs, but the springs are, even though they are a 42mm intake instead of the 44, L28 series. The angles are the same, as the L28's in all aspects, Seat angle and angle realtion to the head.

Valve springs are the SAME as the L28's. I measured them on my valve spring tester.

As for material of rings, you need to run CHROME STEEL RINGS. MOST DURABLE. BTW, The math I did is tight, so since you have 2mm to play with I would put an extra MM on both of the compression ring lands. (BTW, Youve seen all the pistons Ive design and got forged up, so you know this isnt the first for me mack!!!)

You could run a 1mm Top ring, and a 1.2mm second ring. It is best to have the same thickness support under the ring for the ring land, as the same thickness of the ring. So if you have a 1.2mm ring, you wanr 1.2mm ring land. Oil rings should NOT go below 3mm in thickness as below that, they cant controll the oil anymore. You want that ring to be down in the bore atleast 2mm. So it depends what pin you run. But with a 28mm pin/2=14mm from the top of the piston to the top of the pin. So 2mm (ring down in bore) + 1mm (top ring) + 1mm (top ringland) + 1.2mm ( second ring) + 1.2mm (second ring land) + 3mm (oil ring) + 2mm( oil ring land) = 11.4mm. BUT your gonna run a .025" negative deck height probably to get proper quench so thats another .6mm, so your right at 12mm ring pack. This is TIGHT, but it will work.

First off, the difference with using same length velocity stacks, with the difference in length, is less than 50 RPM harmonic difference on a 4th dimemssion. The intake is setup for 6800 Peak Power at that resonance. Therefore, the cylinders will not run lean nor rich in difference, but mear, the center two will make peak power at less than 50 RPM difference. Not a big deal on a street car, thats for sure. This intake is sure well enough to get my car in the 13.1's @ 103 MPH in a full bodied 280z, with bad plug wires. This customer is putting this on a show car, and really cares about apperance more than performance, but I built him an intake that has both. Heres the same intake, just different runners and a tad differenct design, but this is the one thats on my car. SRC=

Yea, So Im building this custom Individual throttle body intake for customer that is also a member of the board, Ill let them revial there Identity if they choose so. Yea so its about 80% complete, all of the hard work is done anyways, just install the air cleaner plates, velocity stacks, and the Injector bungs, and all good to go! I wont give away all of the dimensions, and what not, but as you can see, The runners are partially tappered, to give a NICE torquey manifold. Anyways, heres some pics.

Thats what screens are for, HEHE. Yea, I knew who got them but I didt wanna reveal who, I figure better let tony do so.

Ok, this is more of a speacial project 20/26 setup. Ive got a set of 26 cams but one has a broken lobe due to shippin error. I CAN use 26 cams, any offers?

Ok, so a customer of mine has brought me the RB20 motor and he wants to change the cams out on it. He either wants to put RB 26 cams, or some aftermarket RB26 cams. Does anyone have any RB26 cams laying around for a reasonable price, or have any aftermarket used ones, that they might want to get rid of.

It is a L24 in that boat, Ive speaken with the guy on the phone, and they mount the motors backwards in hydroplanes. My intake has 45MM butterflys and tapers down to 37mm only in the last 2" of the intake, therefore, can be opened up to whatever your head opening is pretty easily, all the way up to 45mm. No that wasnt me that got the other manifold. Dont know who it is. BTW that straight one you have brapp, is not the same exact style with just a straight design. Yours is neat though. Yea, I will run Mechanical on one setup and run electrical on the other, but I wont hack the manifolds, I will make speacial threaded inserts that thread right into the stock mechanical holes, that way nothing is hacked and welded.

We own a sonic tester at the shop, Ive sonic tested LOTS of F54's and N42's to come up with my conclussion. RE-READ the how to modify book, it backsup my statement, read it carefully. YES you can see light between 1 and 2, 2 and 3, 4 and 5, and 5 and 6. You can NOT see this light on a 42 block. .410 thickness betwen these cylinders on 42 blocks, and .150 thick on 54 blocks.

Ok, So my buddy calls me up at about 5:00 and says, "hey, lets go to the track", So Im like, well I dont get off till 7, but Ok, lets go. Well, I had to tighten the driveshaft, as the 1310 sucker was coming loose! So did that, put on a new door handle, cause those stupid first gen handles keep braking, and its been broke for a week, so I had to change that to pass tech. So, We get there around 9 or so, tech in, pass everythings ok, so we head to the staging lanes. So after the hondas all broke down and they had to shut down the track and clean up there mess, so that put us an hour down! GRRRRRRRRR. So anyways, I get up to the bleach box, do my burn out, stage, etc. First run, I was mainly watching the oil pressure on the big bore guage, just to make sure everythings Ok, well it was, but only ran a 13.75 @ 99.82, with a 2 flat sixty footer. Second run, same scenerio, but slower sixty footer, at 2.156, and 13.70 @ 101.41. Third run, hooked decent, pulled a 1.776 sixty footer, and ran a 13.130 @ 102.58. (this was my fastest) Fourth run was a crappier launch, so only a 1.879 and ran a 13.257 @ 103.1, so if I would of hooked I would of run a 13.0 or so, just cause the MPH was higher, DANGIT! So that was about it, as the next and last run stupid spark plug wire popped out of the dizzy, GRRRRRRRRRR. Ok, most know my build, FULL body, FULL everything 280 with a mass with me in it of about 2950 LBS. Car is ALL motor, NA, just your plain ole 3098 cc L6. Not bad, considering had NO time to tune it, as I left the laptop at home, and it was running like a 12.0 AFR at certain WOT spots according to the LM-1. Oh well, Ill hit 12's when Im more prepared next time, this was just kinda a jump in the car and head out there type deal, should of tuned it more, but theres always next time. Had some ignition problems at about 6800 as well, started popping, so thats something thats gonna get looked into pretty quickly. This was at 1250 Feet of elevation might I add.

LD28 block, is 83mm bore, and I sonic tested TWO blocks, and without sleeves, you can ONLY do a 2 mil over, that will only get you two a ~2.95 liter. So your saying you did a 7 mill over bore, on cylinders that are only .160" thick STOCK? Yea, this only worked cause you sleeved it, CANT be done without sleeving it mack, TOLD YA!