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madkaw

Ms3x install

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Have you seen this page? seems like you need to switch IAC wires or just the settings in tunerstudio 

 

https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/stepper-iac/

 

Problem: Valve moves, but in opposite direction of intended.  Solutions: Both coils are wired backwards. Switch wires 1A for 1B, and 2A for 2B; With the current firmware, you can simply change the homing direction in the software. Older versions (and original Bowling & Grippo code) do not allow this.

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Actually- I am still set up closed.

From a DIY article

https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/stepper-iac/

First, make sure that the idle control is set to “Stepper Valve”, not PWM or on/off idle control. For initial testing, we recommend using open loop instead of closed loop. Closed loop requires more complicated settings and has more that can potentially go wrong.

The time step size is how long the stepper driver will command an individual step. If the valve is perfectly dialed in, this will match the time it takes the coil move the motor through a single step. If this value is too low, the step is not completed, and the valve does not move. If the step is too high, the valve will move more slowly than it can – but otherwise there aren’t any consequences. Your best bet is to set this for 10 ms, then decrease until the valve no longer moves. Then add 0.5 to 1.0 ms.

4 wire valves that turn freely usually need to use “Always On” mode. Valves that are difficult to spin by hand usually need to use “Moving Only” mode; the same goes for all 5 or 6 wire valves.

The homing steps (called “start value” in older code versions) needs to be set to a large enough value that the valve retracts fully from any position the valve can reach during operation.

The current MS3 and MS2/Extra code allow you to specify if the valve closes or opens on startup. Regardless of which position it is set for, you need to set the number of homing steps high enough that it will move all the way to this position no matter where it starts

 

I guess I need to change this in my tune. I believe 'turn freely' explains or describes my stepper

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Yeah... I wasn't 100% sure on that Mode ( Always On etc ). But it's nice you can flip the Direction in the Software instead of having to re-wire. 

Frackin' MS help files sure are nicely organised and easy to understand.... NOT!!!  Biggest weak point of the whole product IMHO. 

Edited by Chickenman

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3 minutes ago, Chickenman said:

Yeah... I wasn't 100% sure on that Mode ( Always On etc ). But it's nice you can flip the Direction in the Software instead of having to re-wire. 

yes it is-but I had/have so many other issues I didn't know if switching directions was helping me.  I think I have a plan now. Just need to get off the RR and implement ! Wish I was retired like the Chickenman! 

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The old Datsun AAR valve isn't looking so bad now is it.... LOL  Ironically... you could use one and control it very easily with the MS. I use a later Z31 AAR valve on my 280Z. 22660-30P10. You can take this one apart and clean the oily gunk out. 

22660-30p10_0316_1ks.jpg 

Edited by Chickenman

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11 hours ago, madkaw said:

yes it is-but I had/have so many other issues I didn't know if switching directions was helping me.  I think I have a plan now. Just need to get off the RR and implement ! Wish I was retired like the Chickenman! 

Wish I had a garage like you!! 

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5 hours ago, Chickenman said:

The old Datsun AAR valve isn't looking so bad now is it.... LOL  Ironically... you could use one and control it very easily with the MS. I use a later Z31 AAR valve on my 280Z. 22660-30P10. You can take this one apart and clean the oily gunk out. 

22660-30p10_0316_1ks.jpg 

I think I have one sitting on a 82 intake behind my GARAGE :)

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I was actually half kidding about reverting to the AAR dinosaur... but sometimes simple is better LOL.

 If you don't need any Idle Kick for AC or something, the good old AAR works good enough. Certainly less of a PITA to setup. You could even install the original ThermoTime Switch... but that would be too funny :D 

You can also use Ignition Timing Idle advance to give a few more degrees of advance when the  engine is cold. The Federal model 280Z engines did this. They had Dual VR sensors in the dizzy. One was advanced  ( Phased ) about 6 degrees from normal, and only operated while the engine was cold.

MS has a programmable cold advance idle curve that you can do the same thing with. Advances low RPM range a set number of degrees over base timing table until engine wrams up. Works quite well and is simple. 

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That AAR switch is looking better all the time . Took another stab at my IAC and learned a little more , but still not getting it. I think we need a session Richard.

pretty sure it’s all settings in my firmware , but not getting settings right. 

Not enough idle at first start - though it does stay running and idle is steady(1100rpm) . Idle will pick up slightly as it warms , but that might be enrichment backing off a tad . Fully warm the IAC doesn’t close all the way so idle stays high(1200-1300). If I go into test mode (while running)and test homing position( set to close) , idle drops to exactly where I want it (850), and where engine normally idles at without IAC connected. So the valve is capable of closing , but doesn’t do that all the way when warm . If I stop test mode the IAC steps up 20 steps and the idle increases . I tried to ‘0’ out last step in warm up , but it didn’t seem to want to take it and always went plugged in 20?

 

So all this babbling is just saying that I cannnoy get my settings right , but the hardware should be getting me there. 

 

 

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